Easy gearbox removal

[rustic]

Its just a breather

Thought it maybe, but you can't normally see it on my Mav, I can also see the one now on the gearbox, looks like they are t'd together.

 

[Terranosaurus]

Ive removed a few and the method detailed in the thread was by far the easiest though i wouldnt recommend it if you wanted to use the truck again.Ive tried the method in the book very difficult and the box is heavy to remove also tried removing the front diff and lifting the engine out first this takes ages my advise would be to by a fourtrak daihatsu had the sense to split the cross member holding the torsion bars thus making the gearbox removal easy whilst with the absence of a ridiculous sump the engine removes in about an hour

Interesting - might be worth modding the crossmember so it has a removable centre section to make removing the gearbox easier.

I have heard form some mechanics who've domne a lot of T2 clutches that you can just unbolt the rear crossmember and then the torsion bars will flex enough to allow you to drop the box enough to do the clucth - not sure if it can be got fully out that way or if its just enough to change the clutch.

I'll find out soon enough anyway as my box is very noisy so I need to recon or change it.

 

[cncfabs]

Interesting - might be worth modding the crossmember so it has a removable centre section to make removing the gearbox easier.

I have heard form some mechanics who've domne a lot of T2 clutches that you can just unbolt the rear crossmember and then the torsion bars will flex enough to allow you to drop the box enough to do the clucth - not sure if it can be got fully out that way or if its just enough to change the clutch.

I'll find out soon enough anyway as my box is very noisy so I need to recon or change it.

Ive tried that method also found id difficult to bend them down that far and very difficult to get the gearbox out as the box is wider than the gap between the torsion bars.If i was doing it on a good truck would follow the manual.Modding the crossmember wouldnt work on these as its the transfer that fouls the cross member and its right on where the torsion bar adjuster is.

 

[rustic]

I kept a copy of a thread that was posted on here before:
I'm not sure if it is any use, but may help a few.
Keeping the cross member on, may help to stabilise the box, but could it damage the rear mount?


HI Rustic, Yes I could remove the box and crossmember in one. This is how i done it in case any members are looking to do this; Caution pain involved!!! I used a set of car ramps; a 5 ton bottle jack and two building blocks; small 1" socket chain puller; a 3 ft pinch bar; a socket set and spanners. I first ran the car up the ramps then jacked and blocked it up. The £50 jack I already had for the boys quads; The job was well tough, the trickest thing was the removal/fitting of the starter done with 3 3/8 socket extension bars and a flexy adapter from the front crossmember up to the starter motor under the front rollbar,removal of the steering shaft made this easier, which involves the drivers wheel off to gain access. A 14mm socket is used for the starter motor. Next for the two bellhousing bolts at the top of the gearbox 14mm same again flexy and extention bars this was done from underneath the car with the bonnet open so you can see the bolt head. I then jacked the car up and undid the torsion bar adjusters and crossmember bolts 19mm spanner/sockets ; 77mm is the adjustment length I used on the rebuild; at the front of the torsion bars there are 4 14mm and 2 not sure poss 5/8 19mm. I then lowered the car the pinchbar; 5lb hammer; knocked the crossmember and bars out. Took the prop shaft off the front: 8x 14mm nuts /bolts, on the rear shaft I just removed 4x 17mm/19mm nuts/ bolts I think. leaving shaft in but resting on ply as not to lose any oil out of the box. I disconected hose and wires to box and rest of bolts from the bellhousing; put a rope round the rear diff and used the puller and quad jack to seperate box and lower and refitted the new clutch kit. Refitting the box was pretty much the way it came out. but I used the puller on front rollbar and pinch bar to nudge it back in I done this myself and I am not a mechanic, sound advice is use plenty wd40 before removal of any nuts and bolts, and I was in a fair bit of pain for a about a week after with pulling myself out from under the car alot to get tools. not to sure what height can say the wheels were above the ramps about 8" to get box out I hope this helps someone scotty time served painter

 

[paulp]

gearbox

hi have you got an auto gearbox ECU as i may need one for a mistral 2.7td
(1996 N. reg)

paulp