Dont think its meant to do that!!!

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R1cho

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
4,200
well was out today and heard a clunk thought i'd gone over a manhole and thought nothing of it then when got home had a look under the car and found this!!

199973_10150143143157649_793747648_6399249_1050222_n.jpg
 
so does this mean that you need a new lower arm or just a bit of welding to it:augie
 
dunno not had a close look yet, still too pi$$ed off lol
 
well was out today and heard a clunk thought i'd gone over a manhole and thought nothing of it then when got home had a look under the car and found this!!

199973_10150143143157649_793747648_6399249_1050222_n.jpg

I seem to think there should be a nut above that top washer, then the washer, then the bush, then the wishbone, then bush/washer/nut again.

The missing nut has allowed it to pop out/up.

If there IS a nut (and its not 100% clear) then the washer is either too big or too weedy and has let the nut pull through. Let us know which it is cos it will reflect on Milners quality.
 
the drop links aren't from milners just the bushes are, that washer is one that came with the drop links, i'm going to change it for the one that came from milners with the bushes, on closer inspection there doesn't seem to be any damage to the drop link
 
the drop links aren't from milners just the bushes are, that washer is one that came with the drop links, i'm going to change it for the one that came from milners with the bushes, on closer inspection there doesn't seem to be any damage to the drop link
What can happen is the hole in the wishbone becomes enlarged through loose droplinks slopping around, this allows the bush to pull through the hole in the wishbone. Both my wishbones had worn holes, so I re-used the old washers, assembling it as, from the bottom:- nut, washer, lower bush, another washer, wishbone, washer, upper bush, washer. Basically this meant there was a washer either side of the wishbone as well as the ones above and below the bushes. My car is used up and down mountain tracks every day and since fitting them last Aug they are showing no sign of wear,
 
ARB drop links often rattle, technically a test fail, certainly like this but not
a direct danger on the road, that said needs doing still
 
ARB drop links often rattle, technically a test fail, certainly like this but not
a direct danger on the road, that said needs doing still

yea i know, gonna do it tomorrow sfter i've had a bit of welding done on the sills
 
the drop links aren't from milners just the bushes are, that washer is one that came with the drop links, i'm going to change it for the one that came from milners with the bushes, on closer inspection there doesn't seem to be any damage to the drop link

I see what you mean (and I was wrong about the nut, there is a shoulder on the link that stops the washer moving)...this is the Milners droplink complete, so clearly the washers from their bush kit aren't compatible with your link.

9095.jpg
 
I see what you mean (and I was wrong about the nut, there is a shoulder on the link that stops the washer moving)...this is the Milners droplink complete, so clearly the washers from their bush kit aren't compatible with your link.

9095.jpg

that washer is one that came with the drop links,

so it should have been ok, I will try the washer that came from milners with the bush kit tomorrow
 
so it should have been ok, I will try the washer that came from milners with the bush kit tomorrow

even more mysterious then.....guess it depends on what has let the washer ride up the link like that........
 
if you do need an arm I've got both sides here - you can have either for the cost of delivery (£10) but be quick it's finally going on saturday (fingers crossed for the fifth time)
 
You need to make sure the washer is a close fit on the bolt, if it is sloppy then the shoulder on the drop link is not very big and it will pull through just like yours has, I have found that the washers come in two weights as well, so I always chose the heavier pattern except that these will not go on the bottom as they will not go through the wishbone hole, Rick
 
I have found that the washers come in two weights as well, so I always chose the heavier pattern except that these will not go on the bottom as they will not go through the wishbone hole, Rick
If you file a small flat on two sides of the washer, it'll go in the hole then:thumb2
 
I think the design and strength of the drop links are not up to the job, these are the only suspension parts that I have changed in 16 years.
They last about 5 years max.

As said before, the holes elongate as the wishbone moves up and down, the rubber bushes sandwich the wishbone, there should be a large washer on the lower nut, this isn't on your picture.

What torque should we use to tighten the lower nut ? I tighten mine until the upper rubber bush becomes barrel shaped, ( ) then the lower one must be the same. :nenau

Next time I may need oversized washers on either side of the wishbone.

When you look at the thickness of the anti-roll bar, then look at the small links at the end, no wonder they don't last.
 
well it looks like i'm taking the roll bar off again tomoz to fix it, while its off i may get some washers welled in place over the holes as they are slightly oval shaped now, or isn't that a good idea?
 
no that is not a problem as you will only be welding to a very small part of the motor that is replaceable anyway, Rick
 
well i took the roll bar off to sort the drop link and one of the bolts that holds the D bush threaded :doh i tried rethreading it but it still wont hold, so now gotta take it to have new bolt welded on, the drop link was slightly bent but i let my hammer have a few words with it and it straightened itself out :augie should be fun driving it to gelt the bolt welded with no roll bar on
 
well i took the roll bar off to sort the drop link and one of the bolts that holds the D bush threaded :doh i tried rethreading it but it still wont hold, so now gotta take it to have new bolt welded on, the drop link was slightly bent but i let my hammer have a few words with it and it straightened itself out :augie should be fun driving it to gelt the bolt welded with no roll bar on

Another option:-- heli-coils or even open it out to a larger thread, it depends what's on the other side, if it's just a nut, there may not be enough metal there.
 

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