Diesel leak. Boohoo.

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Intention was to cut out the leak originally but when I got under I saw there was already a repair done on the return using braided hose and it had gone mushy so I thought I'd just replace the lot and not have to worry about it :thumb2
 
Intention was to cut out the leak originally but when I got under I saw there was already a repair done on the return using braided hose and it had gone mushy so I thought I'd just replace the lot and not have to worry about it :thumb2

Can't fault that logic
 
Ian,

How long did it take you to replace the fuel line? Spotted identical damp patch with associated smell. A few drips on the drive too. So, I'm going to have to get stuck in.

I'll double or treble the time for my estimate.
 
Ian,

How long did it take you to replace the fuel line? Spotted identical damp patch with associated smell. A few drips on the drive too. So, I'm going to have to get stuck in.

I'll double or treble the time for my estimate.

It took me 5 or 6 hours but I tend to faff about :naughty
I could of just cable tied them to the old copper lines but I wanted them out :cool:
 
Interesting that you say copper because when I quickly looked at mine I'll swear it was caked in rust. Was assuming a steel line.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 
Interesting that you say copper because when I quickly looked at mine I'll swear it was caked in rust. Was assuming a steel line.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Ah well, could be steel pipe. Was rotten in a few places.:nenau
 
Hi Ian,

I'm hoping it's steel as if not, something else is rotting at speed. Will see in time. One last question, how much of the 5m of each length do you have left? I was planning on copper and then mentally ran through the hassle of feeding it through, getting it straight, etc and decided rubber might be the way to go. I'm guessing its about a 3m run ?

Cheers.
 
Hi Ian,

I'm hoping it's steel as if not, something else is rotting at speed. Will see in time. One last question, how much of the 5m of each length do you have left? I was planning on copper and then mentally ran through the hassle of feeding it through, getting it straight, etc and decided rubber might be the way to go. I'm guessing its about a 3m run ?

Cheers.

Nooooooooooo. I bought 6mtr of each and had 1mtr of each left over :cool:
also 2 jubilee clips for each size:thumb2
 
Blimey. It's a good old run then.

Thanks for the info.

Yes. I was surprised too. That's obviously a 7 seater 3ltr and I followed the rigid pipework from the top of the tank to the rigid pipe in the engine bay.
The clips along the chassis holds the fuel flow and return and the single brake line part of the way so you have to make sure you cut the right one out :thumb2
 
After reading the previous fuel pipe replacement threads on the forum, tonight I decided to whip the plate off above the tank and measure the pipes to make sure I got the right sizes. Should be a simple quick job.

Nope.

First screw came undone okay, second rounded off, third started before seizing, rounding and the head coming off in the mole grips while the fourth is a rusty old so and so that wouldn't budge.

Looks like it's angle grinder time tomorrow night.

The bolts seem to be quite soft, thin and thread locked in. A wicked combination.

My back up plan if removing the threads gets messy is to file out the holes in the boot to 3/8" square and use 19" rack cage nuts. Fingers crosssed it won't get that bad.

A poor start to my first attempt at work on the truck.
 
If you think they are bad wait till you start on the ones on the tank should you need to remove the unit, but the plate on the boot floor is no problem, shear them all off and stick it back with a thin bead of silicon sealant more than enough for the job and easy to cut away next time access is required, Rick
 
After reading the previous fuel pipe replacement threads on the forum, tonight I decided to whip the plate off above the tank and measure the pipes to make sure I got the right sizes. Should be a simple quick job.

Nope.

First screw came undone okay, second rounded off, third started before seizing, rounding and the head coming off in the mole grips while the fourth is a rusty old so and so that wouldn't budge.

Looks like it's angle grinder time tomorrow night.

The bolts seem to be quite soft, thin and thread locked in. A wicked combination.

My back up plan if removing the threads gets messy is to file out the holes in the boot to 3/8" square and use 19" rack cage nuts. Fingers crosssed it won't get that bad.

A poor start to my first attempt at work on the truck.

Don't be disheartened by that mate, I've done it many a time and it doesn't matter how you tackle it with fluid, heat etc they always snap without fail, just drill out and put something better in there :thumb2
 
I got the grinder out and took the heads off then found there was enough room to get grips on underneath and eased the rest out:thumb2
 
dfaa3d0dcb30cddc0461b7c1a5d3b047.jpg


Wish I'd ground them all off. Two sheared off flush while the one I ground off was then easily removed with mole grips.

Slightly unnerved by the the rusty state of the feed pipe from the tank. Anyhoo, 8 and 10 mm. Onto the local motor factors tomorrow.

I like Rick's silicone sealant idea.
 
Give that lot a good wire brushing, then waxoil or similar, Rick
 
cd32a34984f894b8734b10bb905bb043.jpg


If you nacker yours up I've got this one here for a tenner if you need it? Can package and send as fast as you like

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
dfaa3d0dcb30cddc0461b7c1a5d3b047.jpg


Wish I'd ground them all off. Two sheared off flush while the one I ground off was then easily removed with mole grips.

Slightly unnerved by the the rusty state of the feed pipe from the tank. Anyhoo, 8 and 10 mm. Onto the local motor factors tomorrow.

I like Rick's silicone sealant idea.

If you haven't already, you can get to the underside of them snapped bolts and ease them out with mole grips:thumb2
 

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