Dead battery?

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I have a print out of this chart next to all of my batteries, a different one for leisure batteries, ... (see next post).

Leave the battery for at least an hour, after charging, or after taking power.

Thank you, Rustic - this will come in handy. I actually didn't know how to evaluate the voltage! I will put it on the battery.:clap
 
I have seen it on here when people have problems with the actual ignition switch, they turn the key slowly and the engine will start.

The switch is mounted to the bottom of the ignition barrel with one screw. Remove the steering cowls to get to the ignition switch.

This is an example of the switch, you'd have to check of course that it would fit yours.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Mi...281394&hash=item1a27dad492:g:1yEAAOSwbqpTw5cN
Thank you, Jim. Bookmarked this link in case I need to get it.
 
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So I have been checking the battery level and so far it doesn't seem to be a problem. Considering the fact that I was able to start the engine after I checked/pushed the terminals to make sure the connection, I would think it might be the battery/terminals/cables becoming somewhere loose. Although I haven't rules out what Jim mentioned about problems with the actual ignition switch, I haven't been able to have time to check this. (But I'm now turning the ignition key slower ever than before)

To keep monitoring the battery state, I bought this;
picture.php

from Amazon and use my iPhone to check it out frequently. Will post if I have more clear evidence of the cause for this issue.
 
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check the battery earth connections the one goes to the car body behind battery and washer bottle then loops to engine leads these corrode badly also you could try a jump lead connected to the earth of the battery and on to the engine if this works it will point to a bad earth you say when you wiggle battery connections it works I would replace them and clean the battery post up nice and shiny at least then you can rule out the most common problems and have a good point to work from that has not cost too much to rule out i don't quite see why you bought a battery monitor for that price when you have a multimeter which does the same thing better of saving for the repair ?
 
Hey Toshi, you love gadgets don't you :thumbs

Could you take a screenshot with your phone to see what it looks like please.

Glad I sorted out my battery at the weekend, made a world of difference to mine. Windows run quicker and daft as it sounds the heated seats warm up quick too, only 10 degrees tonight so thought Id test em.
 
@RJL Services
My plan is to clean up the terminals for good connections. The reason for me to buy this gadget is that I can monitor with my smartphone easily rather than opening the bonnet every time. Also I haven't been able to conclude just yet including the age of the battery and wanted to check it closely to see how the battery is doing.

@Jim
I do buy these staff to see if it comes in handy, though some of them were wasted:doh I have quite a bit of showers yesterday and couldn't do anything for this. But yes, will share once I install it and start monitoring.
 
Bluetooth Current Needed ?

So I have been checking the battery level and so far it doesn't seem to be a problem. Considering the fact that I was able to start the engine after I checked/pushed the terminals to make sure the connection, I would think it might be the battery/terminals/cables becoming somewhere loose. Although I haven't rules out what Jim mentioned about problems with the actual ignition switch, I haven't been able to have time to check this. (But I'm now turning the ignition key slower ever than before)

To keep monitoring the battery state, I bought this;
picture.php

from Amazon and use my iPhone to check it out frequently. Will post if I have more clear evidence of the cause for this issue.

So does this device draw current all the time as a voltmeter and as a Bluetooth transmission thus helping to drain your battery even faster than usual?
 
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So does this device draw current all the time as a voltmeter and as a Bluetooth transmission thus helping to drain your battery even faster than usual?

The packaging says 1mA, so yes a drain, but should be pretty insignificant in the grand scheme.
 
So does this device draw current all the time as a voltmeter and as a Bluetooth transmission thus helping to drain your battery even faster than usual?

Yeah, that isn't a good idea, is it? So I'm thinking to connect the ground to the adaptor I put for the daylight running LED so that this battery checker can be turned on only when I start the engine....or wonder if then it won't be able to measure the current correctly?
 
Ideally it wants to be active on position 1 ignition when you turn your key, this way you can check your battery before any power drain. So when ignition is off its not running, thats how my cheap n nasty volts gauge s wired.
 
Plug in lighter socket volt meter.

I use a digital one that plugs in the ignition fed cigarette lighter this gives me the reading when in aux, ignition glow plug position & running.

To check sometimes as an alternative reading I plug it into the constant live power supply that is in my dash so I get a reading from standing overnight etc. As it's an LED rather than liquid crystal I do not leave it in permanently. I tend to do this in the winter not in the summer as voltage readings are always good.
 
Ideally it wants to be active on position 1 ignition when you turn your key, this way you can check your battery before any power drain. So when ignition is off its not running, thats how my cheap n nasty volts gauge s wired.

Yes, I thought it would be the best if I connect this directly to the battery, but could this be connected to one of the fuse to take the power so that it can work like this?
 
I use a digital one that plugs in the ignition fed cigarette lighter this gives me the reading when in aux, ignition glow plug position & running.

To check sometimes as an alternative reading I plug it into the constant live power supply that is in my dash so I get a reading from standing overnight etc. As it's an LED rather than liquid crystal I do not leave it in permanently. I tend to do this in the winter not in the summer as voltage readings are always good.

I have a similar one with bluetooth receiver, so might be enough if I can check only when I started the engine. Currently this took is disconnected in the end. Wasted? Might be...:doh
 
Just a tad late update for the screenshots. It does show current battery level with status;
nzq0lc.jpg


and also it can check if the battery is being charged with above acceptable level of voltage (cranking voltage test) and it shows a warning if it is too low voltage.
2z85g6e.jpg

Maybe because I've been following Jim's advice, it hasn't failed to start the engine nor stop all electricity when I started the engine. So far so good (thanks again, Jim!).

More serious issue is with ABS but hasn't been able to have time to bring the garage even though I found a garage nearby (though not 100% sure if they are knowledgeable with T2....
 
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Great to hear your truck has been behaving itself. Have to say though if the ignition switch is breaking down get it replaced before it fails. If it was just the horrible noise of the ring gear forget what I've just said.

Now the ABS, describe what is happening. Do you startup and the abs light is off and then comes on when you start driving?
I have heard of people having issues with the toothed ring inside the hubs getting full of grease and dirt causing problems. I've had the passenger side front sensor wires break inside the plastic insulation.

Need to get this resolved before MOT time:thumbs
 

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