CV joint/hub question

[BIRKENSTOCK]

Hello folks
Looking for some advice regarding my 1996 ford maverick.
Owned this vehicle for a couple of years now,after buying i discovered the 4wd didn't work so i took it to a guy who did something with the drivers side hub and charged me £10 (i think he said he changed a washer or clip or similar).

Recently when turning or driving over undulating ground i have started to hear a clunk comining from the same wheel.Its a loud clunk that you can feel through the floor.
On investigating i didn't see anything loose such as roll bars drop links etc.
What i did notice is a completely split CV boot.
Would i be correct in thinking the joint has gone?
If so could it be removed cleaned re packed with grease and re booted or am i better off replacing it.
Could it be the Hub or something else.

Thank in advance

 

[jims-terrano]

I guess it depends how long the boot has been split and obviously this needs replacing ASAP what ever you do.

To be honest my first thing would be the steering lock stops, grease them babies up. There's two on each side, get a tub of grease and stick your hand inside a plastic bag. Dunk your fingers in the grease and smear on the lock stops. I've found over the years it is easier to put on full lock and this will give access to one stop on each side, then go to the other full lock and repeat. Normally needs doing twice a year. There's download about changing the lock stops, no need to change but use the download to locate the stops.

I'm guessing that will cure your clunk but defo get the boot replaced ASAP and get the CV joint checked. Now I can't offer any advice on those but I know we have other members that'll help.

Good Luck

 

[perelaar]

If you have driven offroad, especially in mud/dust/water, I think it is better to just replace. You have to take it apart to put a new boot on anyway.

 

[BIRKENSTOCK]

Thanks for the advice guys.
I changed the complete drive shaft with one from a scrap yard,all in all took about 4 hours.
So went out to give it a run and the serious clunking had disapeared.Problem is i can now hear a smaller clicking/clunking,this time its not turning related only up and down.
Any ideas?
Also on a seperate issue, had a clutch fitted about a year ago (less than 200 miles) and now on heavy load the revs rise rapidly and the smell of rotton cabbage fills the cab .Sounds as if its slipping .Ive already had this back to the guy who did it and it did come back slightly improved,but obviously not lasting,again any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AlexD333]

Thanks for the advice guys.
I changed the complete drive shaft with one from a scrap yard,all in all took about 4 hours.
So went out to give it a run and the serious clunking had disapeared.Problem is i can now hear a smaller clicking/clunking,this time its not turning related only up and down.
Any ideas?
Also on a seperate issue, had a clutch fitted about a year ago (less than 200 miles) and now on heavy load the revs rise rapidly and the smell of rotton cabbage fills the cab .Sounds as if its slipping .Ive already had this back to the guy who did it and it did come back slightly improved,but obviously not lasting,again any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Could be slippage, it leak off pipes leak badly they can go onto bell housing and cause slippage I believe, worth a look

 

[solarman216]

up and down noise could be ARB drop links, re clutch dive under and see if you can push the slave cylinder piston in, it should go back easy with hand pressure, if it does not then your pedal is adjusted too tight, this will have the same result as resting your foot on the pedal, Rick

 

[BIRKENSTOCK]

clutch issue

Hi
I got underneath today to check the slave cylinder.It would not move at all by hand,I got the Mrs to press the clutch and i saw the cylinder operate then when she released it returned to rest ,at this point i could push the cylinder by hand.The pedal was at this time "mid travel" she had to put her foot under the pedal to pull it up to what should be the "fully released" position.Just a thought should the engine be running at this point?

 

[solarman216]

no need for engine to be running, you need to check the pedal clevis pin bush for wear, the pedal should come back up to the stop by itself, you can test your clutch by selecting 5th gear HB on hard rev engine to 4k and drop clutch, (make sure pedal comes right up) engine should stall within a second or so, Rick

 

[Sweety]

no need for engine to be running, you need to check the pedal clevis pin bush for wear, the pedal should come back up to the stop by itself, you can test your clutch by selecting 5th gear HB on hard rev engine to 4k and drop clutch, (make sure pedal comes right up) engine should stall within a second or so, Rick

Make sure nothing is in front of you if you do the clutch test above just in case the handbrake was to fail etc:thumbs

 

[BIRKENSTOCK]

Gents, appreciate your help I will try your advice after work tomorrow night and let you know: thanks

 

[solarman216]

Make sure nothing is in front of you if you do the clutch test above just in case the handbrake was to fail etc:thumbs

I aways do it heel and toe on brake and loud pedal, Rick

 

[BIRKENSTOCK]

stink

Good evening gents.
Been itching to get home and give this a go all day.
Did as requested sat with clutch dipped 4th gear selected heel on brake and toe on accelerator let the the clutch out quick and...................

Nothing but the smell of burning!!!! similar to rotten cabbage!!!
So My new clutch with probabley less than 200 mile is kaput!!!!

could this be a case of inferior quality parts ????? or something else?

Thanks for your input.

 

[solarman216]

this could happen if something is holding the clutch fork in contact with the clutch, similar to resting your foot on the pedal, think I would do the drop test again and after you stop the engine dive under and check the clutch arm for free play, if you have free play then it is the clutch, if no free play then it needs finding out as to why, Rick