revolvor
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2012
- Messages
- 71
thank you for your reply. For the price I will order that. Do you have a guide or anything as to the 3 wires, like one one from the new sensor I wire to the old plug... Or are the wires the same colour anyway (black, red, greyish)?
Thank you for any help you can give me.
Right, you asked so nicely I have just made the effort to strip the insulation off the leads to see how I did it,
Note: I have a 96 Maverick with the Crank sensor located in the Timing cover
I cut the knackered magnetic sensor off the Nissan lead, this exposed a Red lead and a White lead, the third lead is a woven shield.
Then I cut the plug off the Audi sensor lead, this exposed a White lead and a Black lead plus another woven shield lead
After a bit of checking I connected the Red Nissan lead to the White Audi lead and the White Nissan lead to the Black Audi lead.
This worked, I was picking up a signal, I did not connect the woven shields.
Simple but for clarity here it is:
Nissan lead is on the LEFT, Audi lead on the RIGHT
It's hard to show the sensor fitted, I tried to take a pic but no luck so here is a quick sketch of the spacer that I made to give the correct magnetic sensor to gear gap, it's approx. 4mm thick.
Just measure the distance on the original Nissan sensor from the magnetic tip to the part where it seats on the timing cover, the Audi sensor obviously needs to protrude the same amount but was 4mm longer hence a 4mm spacer.
With luck this will save you over £100, my truck's symptoms were frequent cutting out when stopping and rough idling, this cured all the problems immediately and is still running great almost one year later :thumb2
PHEW........ Now I can get back to Netflix lol