Corroded front cross member help

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ste68blue

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
664
Hi all, i am sure i saw a post about this a little while ago.

Anyway, i have noticed that the front cross member that the air conditioning radiator sits on is very badly corroded and needs replacing, i havent taken the bumper off yet to have a proper look but i suspect it has broken off at each end.

Is it a case of buying a replacement panel for that of fabricating something?

Also, would it be wise to remove the air con radiator whilst i do this or leave it in place, what are the potential problems either way?

Any help or advice is much appreciated.

I will try and get some pics up of the work being undertaken if i can

Cheers
Stephen
 
you can either get a replacement off a donor truck or can plate it up like i did

470630_10150971508127649_1217913108_o.jpg


470425_10150971507827649_877707154_o.jpg
 
get some angel 50x50 500m long place directly under the rad on the cross member
then get some 6m 25 500m long flat then weld that onto the 50x50 like making a lip weld all around then tack the angel to the cross member.
then you can weld it all onto the a plate that's under the rad that protects it from bolders etc.

it has worked for me and passed :D:D:D

<img src="http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3675/sam0226k.jpg" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/><br/>By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/bladeliker">bladeliker</a> at 2012-07-15
 
Hi guys, tomorrow i am making a start on my front cross member repair and just had a thought....

Is it gunna be easier to remove the air con radiator?
If yes is it just a matter of undoing one of the system joints and let the fluid drain off then take it back to the guy to refill it once it is all back together?

Cheers
Stephen
 
Yes, it's easy enough to remove the air con rad but be aware that the fluid will come out as a gas at high pressure which can freeze burn :eek: so slacken one fitting a little and let the gas escape slowly.
Peter
 
Yes, it's easy enough to remove the air con rad but be aware that the fluid will come out as a gas at high pressure which can freeze burn :eek: so slacken one fitting a little and let the gas escape slowly.
Peter

Be warned that the connectors might/will break as u undo them so it's abit of a gamble.
 
Hi guys, as planned today i made a start on repairing my front cross member.
I have to say, so far it has been very straight forward.
I have attached some snaps of my progress.
removed outer bumper
P310712_0904.jpg

then the bumper strengthener
P310712_0908.jpg

a few pictures of the corrosion, the offside was completely detatched
P310712_0909.jpg

P310712_0909_01.jpg

cut off waht was left of the cross member
P310712_0920.jpg

and tided the bodywork up a little
P310712_0934.jpg

The new cross member was manufactured basically from what i had laying around, 50mm box, 50mm angle
P310712_1208.jpg

test fitting
P310712_1550.jpg

It was painted before i left for home, so will be fitted properly tomorrow and all reassembled.
 
Hi guys, well the final part was done, painted and mounted into position and secured.
Bumpers were mounted and the job was done
P010812_0819.jpg

apologies for the poor light quality

Again i would like to say a big thanks to all that have helped me with advice etc, it is always much appreciated
 
oh thanks feck! i noticed mine was broke 2day driver's side :eek: another repair! can't wait til we get a workshop n another car! then i can strip it properly n properly repair it
 
Yes, it's easy enough to remove the air con rad but be aware that the fluid will come out as a gas at high pressure which can freeze burn :eek: so slacken one fitting a little and let the gas escape slowly.
Peter

As a refrige engineer if I did that I am open to a £2000 fine, but as a plumber I can use the same gas and discharge it to atmosphere via a muff to freeze a pipe with no problem, but more importantly if any oil is lost it will need replacing so let the motor stand for as long as possible before disconnecting and keep the rad vertical at all times, and place tape over all openings to try and reduce dirt and moisture ingress, Rick
 
As a refrige engineer if I did that I am open to a £2000 fine, but as a plumber I can use the same gas and discharge it to atmosphere via a muff to freeze a pipe with no problem, but more importantly if any oil is lost it will need replacing so let the motor stand for as long as possible before disconnecting and keep the rad vertical at all times, and place tape over all openings to try and reduce dirt and moisture ingress, Rick

you can get a 2000 pound fine :eek:

but i like the fabrication workshop :thumbs speedglass is the best :thumb2:D
 
good job, Whats in the cases?

What year is it? Mines a 97 and is in amazing condition. except a few dents ;)
 
Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

Fortunately i didnt have to remove the air con radiator i managed to work around it being in place.

Fez, i share a warehouse with a soft drink distributor so its bottles of pop in the cases.
Mine is a 1998 Solomon and its in pretty good nick, i have done about 250000 miles in it in about 19 months and it is a great bit of kit.

I am considering doing a body lift next....and sticking some wheel spacers on too to give it a beefier look, although i dont really intend on increasing the tyre sizes, i did that with a vitara i had and it seemed to affect the gearing...

Cheers
Stephen
 
I know they are fun to drive but 250000 (1/4 million) miles in 19 month is a bit much. I wish i could afford that much diesel:D
 
ooops....sorry an extra nought crept in there....should have been 25000
 

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