coolant

[rustic]

Right so now we know what not to put in, and we need a 50/50 mix, so what do we actually put in?

Where from etc...

I have read a few web sites and they suggest doing a complete flush many times over to get rid of all crud and traces of the old anti-freeze, and it can take a week or more to get rid of all the airlocks.

2-3 years seems to be the suggested coolant change time ... OOPS

but you can do more damage with chemical reactions between non compatible anti-freezes or even just hard water.



The type depends on what the rad is made from as well.

I shall read the handbook tomorrow :nenau

If it ain't broke don't fix it maybe not such a good plan after all...

 

[The Patrolman]

How's this for a Cool Ant:lol

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

is there something out there sold as say coolant fluid then not antifreeze
you could run 100% and increase boil temp and lower freeze point.

wondering if ive done damage to the troll now, perhaps my aim to protect
it from freezing last winter, led to start of hgf, oh i dont want to think that
way.

 

[solarman216]

is there something out there sold as say coolant fluid then not antifreeze
you could run 100% and increase boil temp and lower freeze point.

wondering if ive done damage to the troll now, perhaps my aim to protect
it from freezing last winter, led to start of hgf, oh i dont want to think that
way.

Where do we start? the system is under pressure this in itself raises the boiling point by around ten degrees, (thats why if you remove the cap when hot you get showered in boiling water) sudden lowering of pressure, next yes most anti freeze solutions increase the boiling point by a further 10 degrees or so (thats how cum you can run a thermostat at 93 degrees and not boil even when it goes a fair way over that, but also most manufactures now insist on summer/winter coolant as it has a high degree of anti corrosion inhibitors added, hope that gives a clearer picture of what happens, incidently your heating system if "wet" is much the same and to prove it next time you bleed a radiator, I bet it is NOT AIR, while you are doing it hold a lighter under it and tell me what happens, and I will tell you what it is, Rick

 

[briggie]

i know !!! , i know !!!!!! :naughty ( cos rick told me :augie ) ... and no i wont be bribed

 

[lacroupade]

H2S? or just the H possibly....

 

[solarman216]

H2S? or just the H possibly....

H Rick

 

[rustic]

Why Hydrogen?
Since water is made up of 2 molecules of Hydrogen to 1 molecule of oxygen, (H20)then the oxygen combines with the iron to form iron oxide ie rust, it also combines with the aluminium to form aluminium oxide, ie the white powder on the surface of aluminium, this leaves the hydrogen, it can be in solution to form an acid (hydrogen + chlorine combines to form Hydrochloric acid H + Cl = HCl) or escape as hydrogen gas.

Before you ask, you cannot pipe the hydrogen away and use this as a replacement fuel, there won't be enough of it.:doh
Would make a good april fool joke though...

regards, Rustic

 

[clivvy]

this is why i like this club, its like being back at school, but for adults, who like cars!:thumbs

 

[lacroupade]

Why Hydrogen?
Since water is made up of 2 molecules of Hydrogen to 1 molecule of oxygen, (H20)then the oxygen combines with the iron to form iron oxide ie rust, it also combines with the aluminium to form aluminium oxide, ie the white powder on the surface of aluminium, this leaves the hydrogen, it can be in solution to form an acid (hydrogen + chlorine combines to form Hydrochloric acid H + Cl = HCl) or escape as hydrogen gas.

Before you ask, you cannot pipe the hydrogen away and use this as a replacement fuel, there won't be enough of it.:doh
Would make a good april fool joke though...

regards, Rustic

ahhhhh, the joys of the old fume cupboard eh?

P.S. in central heating systems where you are more likely to encounter organics that wash down from the header tank, H2S is possible.

 

[rustic]

P.S. in central heating systems where you are more likely to encounter organics that wash down from the header tank, H2S is possible.

It's not just central heating systems, a madras washed down with beer has the same effect on me:lol

 

[solarman216]

Now it's getting too complicated for me, I think it is something to do with the absorbsion of more oxygen in to the water, certainly this can happen in open vent systems when the pipe work is wrong and the water in the header tank is circulated, it turns orange and is very bad for rusting, but it happens in sealed systems too, all I know for sure is the gas burns with a lovely bright green flame, Rick

 

[rustic]

Anyhow I have lost track of where this thread is going.
I am just looking at the "Ford owners handbook" which I don't believe, as it doesn't even recommend LSD in the rear diff, that's because Ford don't make one... so what about the coolant?


For the Coolant 10 litres of 50% Motorcraft ESD-M97B49-A, and replaced every 3 years OOPS ! So buy 5 litres ok for a start.

I am just looking at various ones and can't make my mind up.

Any advice ?:nenau

Regards, Rustic

 

[rustic]

all I know for sure is the gas burns with a lovely bright green flame, Rick

So I guess it contains copper in some form, that's why copper turns green when exposed to air (oxygen).

Sodium for example burns with a yellow flame, look at street lights.
If you try to burn a piece of copper you get a green flame.
Remember those old gas heated copper soldering irons in school...
ok so maybe not.

Hey this site is very educational isn't it.

But we still can't fix the deficit budget.:nenau

 

[lacroupade]

Anyhow I have lost track of where this thread is going.
I am just looking at the "Ford owners handbook" which I don't believe, as it doesn't even recommend LSD in the rear diff, that's because Ford don't make one... so what about the coolant?


For the Coolant 10 litres of 50% Motorcraft ESD-M97B49-A, and replaced every 3 years OOPS ! So buy 5 litres ok for a start.

I am just looking at various ones and can't make my mind up.

Any advice ?:nenau

Regards, Rustic

The Manuel simply talks about using Anti-freeze (Ethylene glycol base) in the 2.7. For the 3.0 it talks about Nissan L2 or equivalent...?

 

[rustic]

The Manuel simply talks about using Anti-freeze (Ethylene glycol base) in the 2.7. For the 3.0 it talks about Nissan L2 or equivalent...?

Looks like standard stuff then for the 2.7 around £16 for 5 litres.
I need to flush out the old, just have to time this right, don't want it to freeze.
I may fill put 50% rain water in, as the water may be too hard and add chemicals.

Thanks for looking at the Nissan manual.
Regards,
Rustic

 

[TONUP]

re draining if you only drain the rad you are only draining third to half the coolant but to drain the block on a 2.7 is very hard, the plug is behind the exhaust under the turbo just about get to it but no room for leverage and they are tight the last engine we had here on the bench I could not remove it for fear of shearing it off, and could not afford to do that, Rick

So if we ignore the very difficult to get at, and most likely stubborn bolt behind the exhaust/turbo, is ther any other means of getting all of the water out of the system. I'm thinking maybe an airline or running the engine. Of course it would need refilling without creating airlocks etc.

Regards

Alan

 

[rayf3262]

So if we ignore the very difficult to get at, and most likely stubborn bolt behind the exhaust/turbo, is ther any other means of getting all of the water out of the system. I'm thinking maybe an airline or running the engine. Of course it would need refilling without creating airlocks etc.

Regards

Alan

Do NOT run the engine without a full compliment of coolant....

 

[rustic]

What I intend to do, unless I get a better solution, is to drain the rad, measure what comes out, top up with fresh water run it, and repeat.
if you do this and you take out 50 % each time after 4 flushes you will have 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 = 0.0625 ie 6.25% of the original fluid present.
If you do the flush 6 times 1.5 % of the original.

8 times.... 0.4%
10 times....0.1 % ie 1 part per thousand.

So flush and drain, 6 times should be enough, and on the last flush fill with pure antifreeze this should give 50% mix.
After a week, take a sample and stick it in the freezer.

If you get 75% each time ( it leaves 25% in) then 4 flushes does 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.25 = 0.3 %

Hope that helps you with the maths.

To change a fraction into a percentage, multiply by 100 ( eg 1/2 x 100 = 50%)
To change a percentage into a fraction , divide by 100 (25%/100 cancel down becomes 1/4)



Best regards,
Rustic

 

[rayf3262]

What I intend to do, unless I get a better solution, is to drain the rad, measure what comes out, top up with fresh water run it, and repeat.
if you do this and you take out 50 % each time after 4 flushes you will have 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 = 0.0625 ie 6.25% of the original fluid present.
If you do the flush 6 times 1.5 % of the original.

8 times.... 0.4%
10 times....0.1 % ie 1 part per thousand.

So flush and drain, 6 times should be enough, and on the last flush fill with pure antifreeze this should give 50% mix.
After a week, take a sample and stick it in the freezer.

If you get 75% each time ( it leaves 25% in) then 4 flushes does 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.25 = 0.3 %

Hope that helps you with the maths.

To change a fraction into a percentage, multiply by 100 ( eg 1/2 x 100 = 50%)
To change a percentage into a fraction , divide by 100 (25%/100 cancel down becomes 1/4)



Best regards,
Rustic

Sounds like theoretical dilution......