cooking oil & diesel will it kill fuel pump!

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Did you see Gadget Geeks last episode, make your own from chip fat, all you need is an old kettle to warm it up, an old oil filter to remove the small bits & orf you go:eek::eek::eek:
 
Did you see Gadget Geeks last episode, make your own from chip fat, all you need is an old kettle to warm it up, an old oil filter to remove the small bits & orf you go:eek::eek::eek:

And what chemicals do u add to make bio
 
You could always add some 2 stroke to it. Acording to the nissan patrol 4x4 forum there's addatives in there what are missing from bio fuels and coocking oil

These addatives lubricate the seals and the motor is suposed to run a we bit hotter, cleaner and possibly more mpg.

I'm unsure if its true but mine smokes less and its been geting 3ml of 2 stroke for every 7 litres for the last 2500 miles now
 
Bio needs the use of Lye (Caustic Soda) and Methanol which is both very flammable and highly toxic in a cumulative way so treat with extreme care!

While on the topic of pumps, how do I tell which mine is? :nenau
 
They just filtered it, it will run in any vehicle but whether it causes damage is another matter.

Thats y people get confused thats not classed as bio diesel if u make bio diesel it will run in any diesel but has to be produced in the right way just filtering used waste oil is classed as wvo not bio diesel
 
Had a look on the pump at Morrisons tonight, "Contains up to 7% Bio Diesel". Been using their diesel ever since I got the car and it's done 30k in the last 9 months.
That svo in the back of the Mav is looking soooooo tempting.
 
Hi guys i have been following this post and we need to make sure you understand the different fuels:

SVO is straight veg oil, so the stuff you buy new from the supermarket etc
WVO is waste veg oil which is what you would take out of a fryer from a takeaway etc
BIO is either SVO or WVO that has been processed with methanol and caustic soda and has had the fatty acid removed in the form of glycerine.

So it is very important we understand the difference, only some vehicles will run on SVO or WVO but all diesel vehicles should run on 100% well made Bio.

If it is well made then all of the fatty acid is removed, mixed with some cold weather additive it is usable all year round, regardless of weather and temperatures.

Hope that clarifies any misunderstandings we may have?

Cheers
Stephen
 
Hi guys i have been following this post and we need to make sure you understand the different fuels:

SVO is straight veg oil, so the stuff you buy new from the supermarket etc
WVO is waste veg oil which is what you would take out of a fryer from a takeaway etc
BIO is either SVO or WVO that has been processed with methanol and caustic soda and has had the fatty acid removed in the form of glycerine.

So it is very important we understand the difference, only some vehicles will run on SVO or WVO but all diesel vehicles should run on 100% well made Bio.

If it is well made then all of the fatty acid is removed, mixed with some cold weather additive it is usable all year round, regardless of weather and temperatures.

Hope that clarifies any misunderstandings we may have?

Cheers
Stephen
thats what i have been trying to say but for some reason wont listen to me:( hope they will listen to u:thumbs
 
we are listening, all I said is any diesel car will run on it but it may cause harm. And i mean run in terms of the basic meaning, start the car and it runs.
 
Ha, what can I say :rolleyes::rolleyes: I've been caning my Maverick for the last couple of years on neat Bio plus now running LPG injection too. Truck goes like stink and at 87p a litre I'm sticking to it ta very much :D
Bio rocks :naughty
 
So what about Palm olive oil, sounds by definition it is SVO, so will this work ( and not cause damage to the pump) in a 2.7TD Mav/Terrano :nenau
 
Very true for HDI engines my daughter and son in law work for a group of dealerships that includes Citroen and Peugeot, I have heard the real horror stories!

and that's just the cars :naughty
 
Rustic, Palm Oil (Palm olive is a soap isn't it?) tends to be solid at room temperature so not very easy to get into the tank :rolleyes: Any solids fats can be melted and used as a base for Biodiesel production but as a rule if it stays runny at overnight temps then it's fine to lob in the tank.

Obviously it's worth double checking on pump and seals, no one wants to blow a seal (oooeerr missuss!)

Back to my slightly off topic question, where is the pump maker marked? I've no idea who put mine together - Zexell? Bosche? Tomy My First Diesel Pump??

Cheers
 
i also am interested in this,
where is the fuel pump, and with regard to veg oil, is it just pour it straight in the filler neck?
also been looking at costco, so it would be the ktc brand id be using,
just want this put in simple :doh mans terms, obviously there is an element of risk, but surely if the ratio is good then diluted would be ok, say 50/50 or 60/40 mainly diesel?:nenau

cheers
craig:thumb2
 
I have been risking it as I think (but could well be proved wrong here) that all the different pumps fitted to the 2.7 Terrano block can cope quite well with SVO/WVO but I have been following advice wrt to veg oil gelling at much warmer temps than diesel and being overly viscous. If you mix about 10-15% petrol to the oil it will quickly reduce the viscosity to very close to diesel's and will also not have a habit of freezing at -1 C.

Five main things I have found out so far about running on veg;

1) The veg oil will clean out all the crud that has built up over the years in your diesel tank, have a spare fuel filter on hand and swap out after the first 2-300 miles and be prepared to clean the wee filter at the pump too (see the workshop manual in downloads). Always keep a spare filter in your truck, just in case too.

2) Veg oil is more viscous than diesel and will therefore stress the fuel pump simply because it's harder to suck through the pipe - hence the dilution with petrol (diesel will do this too, but petrol helps with the gelling too). This viscosity is also different depending on the type of veg oil used, rape seed oil seems to be a preferred oil for this.

3) Veg oil can damage some oil seals depending on the compounds they are made of, the injector pump is often first in line for this issue.

4) If the veg oil gets into the engine oil it will create something that looks a lot like vaseline, interesting but sod all use at lubricating your engine so most veg oilers change the engine oil every 3000 miles or so to help make sure.

5) Also, on newer direct injection engines, there is a high risk of ring gumming :eek: This is where the oil doesn't achieve complete combustion and starts creating a sticky build up around pistons etc.. There is always a risk that this can happen in engines such as ours too, but I know others have run veg for years without issue so fingers crossed!

On top of all that, you keep feeling like you fancy a bag of chips! :lol
 
If you look at your MAF this will tell you which pump you have. Bosch MAF = Bosch pump

Hitach MAF = Zexel pump.

To see the pump pull off the wheel arch cover on the drivers side and you can just see the plate, you will need a torch. regards bri
 
1) The veg oil will clean out all the crud that has built up over the years in your diesel tank

this tends to happen more with wvo than the fresh stuff tbh, but worth changing filters anyway.

my maverick has a zexel pump (TDI) and from around march through to late october i ran on any cheap svo i could get including rape/sunflower/GM soya

i've run upto about 70% veg oil and it has run fine - but mostly was about 50/50 split with derv.

most older diesel engines are fine on a blend of diesel/veg BUT the best way to run veg oil in any diesel is to carry out a twin tank conversion - basically start on diesel and switch back to diesel before shutting engine down. a heat exchanger/heated fuel filter also helps

the only time my maverick wouldnt start on a 50/50 mix the previous winter (2010) was when the temp dropped to -15...knackered glow plugs also wont have helped :doh

as for the oil change just factor in the cost of changing your oil every 3000 miles and veg oil wont be saving you alot - btw i don't change my oil every 3000 miles as i think its pointless doing that often

a good method of stopping/reducing ring gumming is water/methanol injection - it effectively steam cleans the engine - plus will give you a bit more power

hope thats helpful to somebody

wll
 

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