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The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp

So it wont do 30 amps :doh It's also only two pin so you could run two lives and ground to body externally.
Is that at 6, 12 or 24 volts by the way ?
 
Ok, well I've got the wiring in the roof, I'll keep looking for a suitable conector as I Dont want to bodge :nono

Was 12V Pete
 
I think it's 40a rating... NA. The seller could be making it up and the pics are not detailed enough

As said why does the connection need to be spade terminals?
 
I think it's 40a rating... NA. The seller could be making it up and the pics are not detailed enough

As said why does the connection need to be spade terminals?

I want to crimp spade terminals onto the 30 amp wire and attach it to the back of the socket, would be easier than trying to solder 30amp wire
 
I did, one of them uses termination screws that might work :)

I take it you have a proper AMP crimp tool for spades and use the oens with the two "U" for insulation and wire, rather than the Red Blue and Yellow automotive ones.

If you want to get a neat end on the 30amp wire for using in a screw terminal, crimp a "Proper" spade on the end, and then cut it off just in the thin bit just after where the wire is crimped, but before the spade starts. The bit left on the wire normally fits a treat in the larger screw terminals, and gives it a bit more meat for the screw to dig into. I do it on my towing sockets, and the great thing is, if you ever need to change the socket, the wire is still all neat to put in to the new fitting.

I have a ton of Amp and Molex pins and Sockets here, from when my dad used to make the looms for the fruit machines. I use them for doing this all the time.
 
I take it you have a proper AMP crimp tool for spades and use the oens with the two "U" for insulation and wire, rather than the Red Blue and Yellow automotive ones.

If you want to get a neat end on the 30amp wire for using in a screw terminal, crimp a "Proper" spade on the end, and then cut it off just in the thin bit just after where the wire is crimped, but before the spade starts. The bit left on the wire normally fits a treat in the larger screw terminals, and gives it a bit more meat for the screw to dig into. I do it on my towing sockets, and the great thing is, if you ever need to change the socket, the wire is still all neat to put in to the new fitting.

I have a ton of Amp and Molex pins and Sockets here, from when my dad used to make the looms for the fruit machines. I use them for doing this all the time.

I've only got the red blue and yellow spade terminals
 
Doesn't look man enough to me :nenau
Ask them what the rating is :confused:

I have a few of these on the boat, they are normally good for 10 amps, but they are not water proof, they will easily corrode when damp. Really they are similar but smaller than cig sockets on cars and just as weather proof..(NOT).

Using the term DIN socket, does not identify a particular size or type of connector. DIN is just a European standards system.

It's a bit like saying it is to British Standards, there are thousands of them, all different.

Military spec plugs/ sockets are a good bet, Amphenol, or Cannon spring to mind. BUT MIL spec.

You could use Terminal posts, but open to the weather, salt etc and will corrode via electrolysis.

The are also marine connectors for mast head connections, that allow mast un- stepping, but the issue here is current rating.

I will have a browse for you.

best regards,

Rustic
 
I've only got the red blue and yellow spade terminals

Ohh... sorry, I thought I read in another post someone said you had a proper crimp tool, so I thought it was one that used this sort of terminal.

pcs-gold-tone-spade-crimp-terminals-63mm-wiring-connectors-248646n.jpg


I have this for Spade terminals,
20111122_122700.7799.845.800.-1.85.jpg

Great bit of kit, but can be a bit mean, as it has a ratchet, and will only open once it has been fully crimped home, which is a bummer if you mess up.

I also have different ones for the Molex round pins and yet another for the Amp round pins.
 
I have a few of these on the boat, they are normally good for 10 amps, but they are not water proof, they will easily corrode when damp. Really they are similar but smaller than cig sockets on cars and just as weather proof..(NOT).

Using the term DIN socket, does not identify a particular size or type of connector. DIN is just a European standards system.

It's a bit like saying it is to British Standards, there are thousands of them, all different.

Military spec plugs/ sockets are a good bet, Amphenol, or Cannon spring to mind. BUT MIL spec.

You could use Terminal posts, but open to the weather, salt etc and will corrode via electrolysis.

The are also marine connectors for mast head connections, that allow mast un- stepping, but the issue here is current rating.

I will have a browse for you.

best regards,

Rustic

Ok thanks mate, aye, theres got to be a connector out there somewhere, I'll speak to a guy I know who sells ex military stuff and see if he's got anything, I need to get some MOD stuff for my Terrano anyway
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Do an ebay search...


"Waterproof electrical deck plug"

There are some up to 25 amp, 2 or 4 way etc etc. Less than £10 :thumbs
I can't endorse the quality though...:nenau

Hope it helps.

Rustic
 
Thank you both very much for the help:bow appreciate it guys:thumb2

The deck plugs look pretty good, only problem is I can't find ones that have a high amp rating like rustic says, I'll have to extend my search outside of eBay :lol
 
Ohh... sorry, I thought I read in another post someone said you had a proper crimp tool, so I thought it was one that used this sort of terminal.

pcs-gold-tone-spade-crimp-terminals-63mm-wiring-connectors-248646n.jpg


I have this for Spade terminals,
20111122_122700.7799.845.800.-1.85.jpg

Great bit of kit, but can be a bit mean, as it has a ratchet, and will only open once it has been fully crimped home, which is a bummer if you mess up.

I also have different ones for the Molex round pins and yet another for the Amp round pins.

You can release even this type early as it were, after say putting in a bigger crimp in by mistake.

You have to jiggle a thin piece of flattened steel wire up the ratchet assembly and flick open the pawl. tricky but can be done.
OR remove the pivot pin, and replace with a nut and bolt.:thumbs
 
You can release even this type early as it were, after say putting in a bigger crimp in by mistake.

You have to jiggle a thin piece of flattened steel wire up the ratchet assembly and flick open the pawl. tricky but can be done.
OR remove the pivot pin, and replace with a nut and bolt.:thumbs

On my one, my dad replaced the top ratchet pin with a thumb nut and screw, as apparently, some bloke where they worked got his finger caught in one, and because of health and safety it had to be removed by professionals, rather then taking him across to the nearest pillar drill, which meant the delay in getting it off, resulted in nerve damage to the finger, as it took so long. After that the Health and Safety people in the company insisted that they made the units so they could be opened more easily, so even when he went to other companies, he made the same mod on auto pilot to his tools. I always wondered why the manufacturers never had to change the design though.

The Molex ones have a spring loaded open cam, which you can hold open with a small screw driver, and are a lot safer.:lol
 

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