compression glands

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96terrano

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I'm wanting to put wiring through my roof and out so I can power big fat roof lights:naughty already got my wiring via a relay up their just need to get the wiring in, how do comp glands work? And what ones would I need?
 
Ahh right, thanks for that, I'll check sizes
 
I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.

Remember for a Compression gland to work properly, the cable needs to be properly round, so you need to run a multicore cable through it, rather than several single cores, otherwise water uses capillary action and comes in through the gaps between the individual wires.
 
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I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.

Remember for a Compression gland to work properly, the cable needs to be properly round, so you need to run a multicore cable through it, rather than several single cores, otherwise water uses capillary action and comes in through the gaps between the individual wires.

Bugger ok thanks for that, I'm useing 30AMP wires:doh
 
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If you plan on putting a snorkel on, You can run the wires along the side of it in some that ribbed conduit. Thats what I did.

SAM_2412.JPG
 
I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.


These are manufactured by Bulgin, and are available in various number of connections.
I use the 6 way version on the pond for the pumps on mains elec, and they are excellent. The connections on mine are screw connectors, but 0.75 mm2 is about the largest cable size that fits, approx 6 amp rated.
You can also get the water proof covers to protect the connector when the plug isn't in.

best regards,
Rustic
 
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If you plan on putting a snorkel on, You can run the wires along the side of it in some that ribbed conduit. Thats what I did.

SAM_2412.JPG

On my Vitara, I fitted a 7pin towing socket under the bonnet, ran the cable down the side of the screen, it tucked nice and tight in the gutter, and then plugged it in under the bonnet.

I was not allowed to drill holes in the roof, as it was a company car...:lol


These are manufactured by Bulgin, and are available in various number of connections.
I use the 6 way version on the pond for the pumps on mains elec, and they are excellent. The connections on mine are screw connectors, but 0.75 mm2 is about the largest cable size that fits, approx 6 amp rated.
You can also get the water proof covers to protect the connector when the plug isn't in.

best regards,
Rustic

Mine are German, Some make beginning with "H" I think, I have had them for about 10 years, if not more. They also have the screw on cap for when they are disconnected.
 
Doesn't look man enough to me :nenau
Ask them what the rating is :confused:
 
I wouldn't use that...

Apart from as Makeitfit says, it does not look "Man enough", it is also only weatherproof, not water proof... You need IP68 rating.

Weatherproof will not cope with rain being driven into it as you travel along at 60mph.

You will see most IP68 sockets, are raised above the mounting, so that water does not run into them, but round them, and then the plug screws onto the socket, and has a seal in it, to keep it water tight.
 
Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered
 
Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered
Ofcourse you can, you're an auto electrician (trainee) :sly even I can solder :lol
 
Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered

I can't think of any connectors that use spade terminals inside... sort of defeats the point crimping a connector on to then connect to another connector. The problem is, spades are too big. Even towing socket, which are pretty big in size don't allow spade connections.

Another way, would be to use the spades to join to a wire that can be soldered into a multi-pin water proof socket. The only problem there is, it kind of defeats the point of running 30amp wire up to it as you end up with a lower current wire at the connector. That is why I went for lower current wires, but run more of them, rather than trying to use one large wire.

You might have to do a rethink.
 
The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp
 
The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp

Bad idea... with all the work you re doing, no point in ruining it with the wrong type of socket....

If you are going to bodge it, then you may as well just put a gland in the rood, and fill it full of silicone, as it will give you far less trouble in the future. Wet head linings are bad news, and damp in a camper, is the end of the world, considering most of the fittings are MDF or hardboard.
 

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