COLD air induction

[kbekl]

Well I guess a lot of it depends on the limitations of the ECU. The i/c alone probably compensates for the heat introduced by the turbo to some extent and the MAF is then only suggesting changes due to ambient air temperature. But even they aren't that great....I mean look at it logically; if the fuelling were infinitely adjustable as a result of MAF readings, the truck would be twice as powerful in the frost as it is in August. In reality, its a bit perkier but thats about it.

In fact Timbo is always pointing out how underfuelled the T2 is generally, so I suppose sadly, without a bit of a remap, all this is pretty theoretical.....but my main point was that introducing any additional cooling to the i/c without the ECU knowing (which it doesn't in standard form) is a waste of time.

the maf isnt as big a deal as you think it is it just sends the current temp of the incoming air to enable the truck to run at a correct fuelling amount as it is independent of the inter-cooler so it wouldnt know what is happening past the turbo but yet the motors with aftermarket ic's tend to have more power

but when the maf fails the ecu will read a default and run at what it is set to so if you remap the ecu to your own default and remove the maf it will know it isnt their but will run perfectly fine due to the remap

in the case of pete's tho their is a remap in place which means theoretically he could remove the maf and it would not effect the running of the engine depending on what the tuning box actually does ie if it overrides the defualt setting, but in all honesty most of these tuning boxes they offer are a basic unit to override the main programming not the default settings

 

[lacroupade]

the maf isnt as big a deal as you think it is it just sends the current temp of the incoming air to enable the truck to run at a correct fuelling amount as it is independent of the inter-cooler so it wouldnt know what is happening past the turbo but yet the motors with aftermarket ic's tend to have more power

but when the maf fails the ecu will read a default and run at what it is set to so if you remap the ecu to your own default and remove the maf it will know it isnt their but will run perfectly fine due to the remap

in the case of pete's tho their is a remap in place which means theoretically he could remove the maf and it would not effect the running of the engine depending on what the tuning box actually does ie if it overrides the defualt setting, but in all honesty most of these tuning boxes they offer are a basic unit to override the main programming not the default settings

Try telling that to anyone who's MAF had gone down the toilet. :lol

But the second red highlight is my point. The only reason the i/c adds more power is because (i) it cools the hot air from the turbo, and (ii) the ECU has been told to assume a given temperature effect from the i/c and therefore squirt a bit more fuel in, theres nothing in the system that actually 'knows' what that is if it happened to vary and the MAF can only effect changes if it senses a change in intake air temp.

 

[kbekl]

Try telling that to anyone who's MAF had gone down the toilet. :lol

But the second red highlight is my point. The only reason the i/c adds more power is because (i) it cools the hot air from the turbo, and (ii) the ECU has been told to assume a given temperature effect from the i/c and therefore squirt a bit more fuel in, theres nothing in the system that actually 'knows' what that is if it happened to vary and the MAF can only effect changes if it senses a change in intake air temp.

thats my point it only sends the ecu into default mode and it can affect the tick over rate also the low speed control

i had a bmw 318 which the maf decided to pack in at tick over it would be erratic and could stall at any point once the engine had warmed up but when cold was fine also at speeds below 30 it would kangaroo but above 40 it was perfectly fine and drove as normal

the modern motor now has a built in fail-safe that means more money in the manufacturers pocket buy making the ecu make a dramatic change to the way the engine runs when one of the sensors fails like a maf.

 

[kbekl]

going back on track lol

wouldn't you have been better off going for a snorkel

as with the scoop as it is you wount see much gain from it as you will create a equlibrium in the engine bay where the vent is placed and with it being as far back as you have put it, (guessing here as you could have the airfilter at the rear of the engine bay), behind the airfilter what ever air you are directing to the engine bay will be forced down the back of the engine due to the air coming from the front

unless you plan to tube it as go with a forced induction rather than a passive one that you have in place although this may mess with the maf a little bit

personally i would have looked a front ram scoop which could be shut off for when you go off road would have seen better results from this imo

 

[makeitfit]

Evenin', the scoop is there so that I can force induce cold air directly into the air box. It's going in 3" flexi so will be a direct fit from outside to the air box. The air box has a KnN filter in it. There's no room to get the scoop further forward really and even where it is I've had to lower the fuel pump and air filter box. I do have a raised air scoop/snorkel already but this is a bigger scoop and is to be used on road and then unplugged in favour of the snorkel when off road. The bonnet scoop ends up with about 300mm of pipe instead of loads that go to the snorkel.
I've binned the oil blow by thing so there's no oil going into my intercooler at all. Keeps it nice n clean and the best chance of it doing some actual cooling.
Water spray and I/C fan are really handy off road when there's no speed to speak of.
I'm also fitting a scooby WRX front I/C scoop to help out too:naughty

 

[zippy656]

Evenin', the scoop is there so that I can force induce cold air directly into the air box. It's going in 3" flexi so will be a direct fit from outside to the air box. The air box has a KnN filter in it. There's no room to get the scoop further forward really and even where it is I've had to lower the fuel pump and air filter box. I do have a raised air scoop/snorkel already but this is a bigger scoop and is to be used on road and then unplugged in favour of the snorkel when off road. The bonnet scoop ends up with about 300mm of pipe instead of loads that go to the snorkel.
I've binned the oil blow by thing so there's no oil going into my intercooler at all. Keeps it nice n clean and the best chance of it doing some actual cooling.
Water spray and I/C fan are really handy off road when there's no speed to speak of.
I'm also fitting a scooby WRX front I/C scoop to help out too:naughty

this really work then??

 

[makeitfit]

Theoretically yes but no empirical proof

 

[zippy656]

got some ups of under the bonnet now then makeitfit?

 

[makeitfit]

got some ups of under the bonnet now then makeitfit?

eh?
I'm modifying a petrol air box at the mo that will fix to the scoop. Once that's done I'll stick some pics up:doh
If you want Zippy, have a spy on my photobucket link, there's loads there

 

[96terrano]

me like

me also like:naughty

 

[briggie]

me like what him and him like

 

[makeitfit]

Got the bonnet beaten into shape today with my friend Mr Hammmer :sly
Then glassed it all together and filled the whole thing. Primer on now and maybe some black in a day or two :lol

The airbox has also been grafted onto the underside of the bonnet and also glassed in Just ready for a clean up and some black:thumbs

Work in progress

 

[Fez_uk]

this weather is great, can get so much done.

How will that plastic fit onto the filter?

 

[makeitfit]

With the proper flange and flexi hose :thumbs
So I just disconnect the snorkel hose and fit this instead

 

[MudLifeCrisis]

Personally I don't think the problem is not enough cold air getting in to the engine bay , lets face it there are holes everywhere under the bonnet. The problem is hot air not getting out.

If the bonnet vent was facing backwards and a bloody big fan was under it blowing out, cold air would flood in though every orifice ;O)


Also found this as a really cheep way of getting hot air out.


http://www.jblmk3.com/cars/heat_escape.php


Got to be worth a try


Brian

 

[R1cho]

With the proper flange and flexi hose :thumbs
So I just disconnect the snorkel hose and fit this instead

told ya it was an internal snorkel

 

[rayf3262]

Wire mesh/Gauze bonnet anyone?
Could look solid but leak air/heat like no tomorrow....
and lighter.

 

[makeitfit]

Personally I don't think the problem is not enough cold air getting in to the engine bay , lets face it there are holes everywhere under the bonnet. The problem is hot air not getting out.

If the bonnet vent was facing backwards and a bloody big fan was under it blowing out, cold air would flood in though every orifice ;O)


Also found this as a really cheep way of getting hot air out.


http://www.jblmk3.com/cars/heat_escape.php


Got to be worth a try


Brian

Brian top marks mate :thumb2 My gasket will be off tomorrow and I'll pack up the bonnet too. My son will be well stocked :lol
By the way, I'm not using a KnN induction kit. This scoop is to RAM cold air right into the filter box

 

[Fez_uk]

might take the gasket off mine

 

[lacroupade]

might take the gasket off mine

better hope you've got no oil leaks or open-ended breather pipes.....

Lot of noise about nothing IMHO....these trucks don't get overheated if they are properly serviced, end of.

Mr Grumpy :thumbs