Clutch slave cylinder

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scrumpydude

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Jul 8, 2015
Messages
161
'lo,

Getting first is becoming almost impossible and some of the others are not so easy. Looking to change the slave as a first stab.

Any links to trusted suppliers / units? Can see plenty on EBay but I'm guessing not all units are the same. Local motor factors was a little shy of 50 quid iirc. It's for a 2002 3.0.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 
Putting some good quality oil in the gearbox will probably make a difference, awkward first is an issue.
 
Well I have the oil sat on the table in the utility room. Will get that in first and report back. Have bought Comma. I assume that's well regarded?

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Yeh I think a lot of people use comma, I didn't n mine was ok, I put some moly additive in mine and it's still a little hard to get into first. One guy reported that he bought gbox oil from Nissan and it made a huge difference!!
 
If you do change any oils such as gearbox oil or same for diffs. Make sure you can undo the filler plug first before you drop the oil out of the drain plug. Sorry if you knew this already.

You are right to be careful about supplier and brand of parts as there are some very poor quality parts out there. Sadly ebay seems to be flooded with poor quality. As Solarman says use your local motor factors. I use a couple around here but one of them is a national company called Andrew Page, they tend to supply a brand called BluePrint which have always seemed fine for bits so far.

Also worth checking your clutch flexi hose before you look at the slave cylinder, crawl under or reach under the truck whilst someone pumps the clutch pedal. The hose tends to swell as it breaks down instead of containing the pressure so the slave doesn't operate as it should. Watch fingers though as the clutch lever won't take any prisoners.
 
The gearbox drain plug along with the engine drain plug are lovely big bolt heads so use a 5 sided socket and you should have no problem. The diffs and transfer box are a different story. :sly
 
scrumpydude said:
'lo,

Getting first is becoming almost impossible and some of the others are not so easy. Looking to change the slave as a first stab.

Any links to trusted suppliers / units? Can see plenty on EBay but I'm guessing not all units are the same. Local motor factors was a little shy of 50 quid iirc. It's for a 2002 3.0.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I bought a Pagid Master cylinder from Euro Car Parts. Delivered day after ordering as well!

It was a perfect fit, so I imagine the slave cylinder would be as well. Also as in the thread above the Flexi hose, innocuous as it looks, is capable of creating some major clutch problems as I recently found out. I bought one for around £37.50 from eBay.

Regards

Alan
 
Ah yes, that flexi hose. Forgot about that badger. Any way to tell if it's causing problems or do you just replace it and if things improve it was?

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It's one way of doing it. Visual check of both items do they look dry, no signs of dampness when it's dry outside or even wet from a proper leak of fluid. Get someone to operate the clutch pedal whilst you are looking at them, use a mirror or crawl is what I do. The hose may show signs of swelling. Does the piston operate the clutch arm but watch those fingers.
 
Blocky10 said:
The gearbox drain plug along with the engine drain plug are lovely big bolt heads so use a 5 sided socket and you should have no problem. The diffs and transfer box are a different story. :sly
Click to expand...

Where can I obtain a five sided socket :nenau All the ones I have are six :p :D
 
Well, I've actually done my first job on the truck... and its thrown up yet more questions.

Changing the gearbox oil was the job. The drain plug and filler plug were not hex heads but like giant grub screws with a square 1/2" drive. My wrench fitted it perfectly.

Placed an old oil can with the side cut out to catch the oil and open it up. The 5 litre can nearly brimmed. I thought it was 3.5 or 3.6 litres? On refilling to the point where it was just coming over the filler plug was 5 litres.

So, what is the capacity of the main gearbox on a 3L manual?

Good news is that the gear change is better.
 
scrumpydude said:
Well, I've actually done my first job on the truck... and its thrown up yet more questions.

Changing the gearbox oil was the job. The drain plug and filler plug were not hex heads but like giant grub screws with a square 1/2" drive. My wrench fitted it perfectly.

Placed an old oil can with the side cut out to catch the oil and open it up. The 5 litre can nearly brimmed. I thought it was 3.5 or 3.6 litres? On refilling to the point where it was just coming over the filler plug was 5 litres.

So, what is the capacity of the main gearbox on a 3L manual?

Good news is that the gear change is better.
Click to expand...

I apologize for the miss information :bow mines an auto so obviously different. :doh
 
Well, I'm wondering if I have the right gearbox. :-o



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And thoughts of a quick fix to my gear change problems now seem premature as it's back to its old ways. :(

Slave cylinder and flexi hose next I think.

Ignoring the capacity issue for a moment, the oil that came out was pretty black. Not engine oil black but not the golden brown I was expecting. Am wondering if that is normal or a sign I'm chewing through my gears.
 
Nothing should make GB oil black unless someone added Moly slip, with graffite which is the wrong sort of additive for a syncro box anyway, Rick
 
Hmmm. Better get the slave cylinder changed sharpish then to see if I can improve things.

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