Clutch pedal mechanism

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scrumpydude

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
161
My 'clutch' woes continue. This time the clutch pedal mechanism has broke. The long story I'll spare you but a couple of spot welds have gone plus the top bolt fixing is torn. Will try to upload pics later for those that are interested.

So, tomorrow is a day off work and will atempt a weld repair. My welding is:
a) very amateur
b) agricultural
c) runs to about 10 hrs total experince
d) etc, etc.

However, if I can get the setting right on the MIG welder (i.e. low enough) I reckon I have a chance of making it stronger than Nissan.

However, on the off chance I make a total mess of it, can anyone tell me if the pedal mechanism of the 2.7 and 3.0 are the same? Mine is a 3.0 2002 so any 'varities' that might suit would be good to know. Then, it will be off to Ebay to see what's breaking.

Cheers all.
 
Here are the broken welds
 

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  • CP-spot-welds.jpg
    CP-spot-welds.jpg
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Glyn, I’m sure it was Banshee that had this problem with his old Mav. I’ve had and indeed still got a problem with worn bush and pin so the pedal sticks, occasionally have to pull it a wee bit with my toes.
 
Cheers for the reply.

I've had that too. A week or so ago on a journey the pedal suddenly started to stick half way back up. Took some effort to lift it with my toes. Discovered that that pedal 'shaft' was catching on the steering wheel shaft (there is a step it was catching on). The 'fix' was to push the pedal to the left a bit and then the pedal missed the step on the steering wheel. What I guess I failed to notice was the cause of the pedal being to the right and against the steering wheel. I think that must have been the first weld go. My subsequent position corrections must have weakened the other spot weld.

On the pic with the mole grips, the grips are by the failed spot welds (ready for welding). While the alignment as shown may not be perfect it will be alot better than broken. I should have took a photo without the grips and you could see just how broken it is.

On the plus side, am getting a close look at those plastic bushes that I also need to replace (well, one has gone, second is worn). :)
 
Glyn, I’m sure it was Banshee that had this problem with his old Mav. I’ve had and indeed still got a problem with worn bush and pin so the pedal sticks, occasionally have to pull it a wee bit with my toes.

Very good memory Jim!!!! I ended up just swapping the whole pedal assembly in the end :clap
 
Very good memory Jim!!!! I ended up just swapping the whole pedal assembly in the end :clap
Which may be what I have to do! Do we know if the assemblies all the same across the range?

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 
Well, not often I post with good news, but

GOOD NEWS!

Didn't start too well this morning when I discovered I've run out of gas for the welder. A couple of phone calls later and a mile bike ride and I'm at a local enginerring shop (which I pass every day and barely notice) with the clutch pedal. 15 minutes later I'm leaving with it repaired. Top job. Spot welds repaired. Some seam welds on both sides for extra strength. Top mounting fixed with a large washer welded in place. Best summarised as 'better than Nissan'. £10 !!

Took a while to get it fitted back in. Had some fun with the thread on the top mounting bolt but it's in and all working fine.

Online breaker broker (finally) got back to me this evening. £52 :lol
 
That is great news. Well done. £52 to put back the job maybe weeks:lol
At least it'll last now:thumb2
 
Why did it break though ?

Well, not often I post with good news, but

GOOD NEWS!

Didn't start too well this morning when I discovered I've run out of gas for the welder. A couple of phone calls later and a mile bike ride and I'm at a local enginerring shop (which I pass every day and barely notice) with the clutch pedal. 15 minutes later I'm leaving with it repaired. Top job. Spot welds repaired. Some seam welds on both sides for extra strength. Top mounting fixed with a large washer welded in place. Best summarised as 'better than Nissan'. £10 !!

Took a while to get it fitted back in. Had some fun with the thread on the top mounting bolt but it's in and all working fine.

Online breaker broker (finally) got back to me this evening. £52 :lol

What would worry me is why did the thing fail in the first place ?
Is it poor design or is something else that is putting to much load on the bracket?
 
I've just compared a 99 pedal to a 2004 pedal and they both appear to be the same :thumb2

Just for anyone else reading this needing future confirmation :thumb2
 
Its quite a common thing on these trucks, been mentioned on the forum often, mine went while at work, had it welded not to good but ok, re-inforced with chemical metal, bolt mod as spacer support behind plate to help prevent twisting. been ok for over 3 years now.
 
I have the very same issue. I noticed the clutch pedal was not "resetting" properly and pedal stuck under the break pedal sometimes. So I checked it and the bracket has broken in 4 places and also bend quite badly. :augie

My terrano 2 is the 1998 model 2.7TDI and I think this is just bad design and/or bad quality sheet metal. The bracket was already "fixed" by previous owner without any extra support added and of course it failed since welding the cracked metal won't make the metal around the welds any stronger. :doh

The sheet metal is just too thin for this mechanism to ever last any accidental (bumpy terrain did it for me) extra force put on it so my plan is to first try and reinforce it with some thicker sheet metal for a quick fix and later replace it with better one. Need to buy welding equipment first and learn to weld. How hard can it be?

I would guess the replacement parts aren't any better than the original?
 
What would worry me is why did the thing fail in the first place ?
Is it poor design or is something else that is putting to much load on the bracket?
Yeah, cheers for that. Been trying not to think about it as it doesn't help me sleep. :)

In truth I have wondered. The second spot weld was from me 'adjusting' the pedal away from the steering wheel column. That time with my foot. What caused the first to fail, no idea. Only the plastic clevis pin bush was knackered and I can't see how that could have caused it to fail. The metal and welds did look weak but they've done 15 years.

Oh well, fingers crossed.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 
Had the same issue on my old mag and welded it myself then not long after whilst in town I thought it had gone again but this time turned out to be a split in the clutch fork where the slave cylinder pin activates on it.
Couldn't be welded in place so clutch has to come out to replace fork so had clutch done at the same time. Fork cost about £50
 

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