Clucking & squealing from front drivers wheel area

[Zimbok]

Hi, I have a list of things I need doing on the Terrano and they are being ticked off slowly but something always seems to come up and go top of the list.

The latest problem. Last few days there has been a "clucking / popping" from the front drivers side wheel area, which has now started to squeal quite badly.

I had in my mind from past experience that the clucking / popping was a CV joint problem and the squealing (mainly heard when turning) was the wheel bearings. I have changed the wheel bearings on my old VW Beetle but that was way back when and by comparison to a Terrano, no doubt a much simpler job.

Would the noises I am hearing be the CV joint or wheel bearings (or both) and if both strange that they should go at the same time. Also any idea what the costs would be and is it within the capability of a weekend DIY'er?

 

[solarman216]

you do not say what year your motor is, so if auto hubs I would suspect it being dry of grease, if manual hubs then CVJ (check the boot), Rick

 

[AlexD333]

The clunking yes likely cv although mine was really only noticeable in 4wd

Regarding the squeaking mine turned out to be the front ujs on the shaft to the front diff, they were shot, milners off-road did a nice kit with grease nipples for future maintenance :thumb2

Keep us posted.

Oh and as Rick says, what year and spec is yours? (Place it in your signature for next time) :thumb2

 

[panelbeater]

turn wheel to lock to lock while driving safely,both ways and listen for the noises,but as said cv.?

 

[jims-terrano]

His signature says5.

Im assuming from the year you will have fixed hubs unless someone has been playing, show us a photo of the centre of the front wheel hub to be sure.

So fixed hubs means that your front transmission will be turn all the time with the wheels. This will cause wear and tear so as said CVs could have an issue but I'm no expert on those.

Does the noise happen when on full lock? The steering stops can cause issues with horrible noises. Simply blob greases on all four of them, theres a download regarding replacing the original plastic caps but these wear away so a blob of grease every now and then does the trick far cheaper and easier. Even if they aren't making the noise it's still worth doing anyway.

 

[Zimbok]

Hi, thanks for the responses. It is a 2005 model 2.7. It squeals in a straight line too.

<a href="http://s244.photobucket.com/user/zimbokjon/media/CV%20Bearings.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/zimbokjon/CV%20Bearings.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo CV Bearings.jpg"/></a>

 

[Banshee]

I'll be interested to find out what yours is as I have near enough exactly the same problem myself at the moment however I think mine is LOKKA related, even with the manual hubs unlocked I get the same "ratcheting" when turning corners now :nenau

I'm going to strip the hubs again this week when I Waxoyl the car, hopefully I'll find out whagwarn then

 

[Barrbeast]

That's odd Banshee as with the hubs unlocked there shouldn't be anything to make the lokka ratchet as the shafts shouldn't be turning, sounds like your hubs maybe aren't unlocking.

 

[Banshee]

That's odd Banshee as with the hubs unlocked there shouldn't be anything to make the lokka ratchet as the shafts shouldn't be turning, sounds like your hubs maybe aren't unlocking.

I jam packed them full of grease I think too much :doh

 

[rustic]

I jam packed them full of grease I think too much :doh

Just a covering is enough, if fully packed, can stop the parts retracting to release them.

 

[Banshee]

Just a covering is enough, if fully packed, can stop the parts retracting to release them.

I thought this might be the case, I'll get them off sharpish

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Just a covering is enough, if fully packed, can stop the parts retracting to release them.

Have you seen the new range of "WD40" products, they do both dry and wet PTFE spray, plus Silicon spray and White Lithium. I was wondering if the PTFE would be a good choice for the Hubs?

 

[Banshee]

Have you seen the new range of "WD40" products, they do both dry and wet PTFE spray, plus Silicon spray and White Lithium. I was wondering if the PTFE would be a good choice for the Hubs?

If someone else can confirm this I'll run by Halfords after work

 

[elty001]

I agree with Rob about the overpacked hubs.
When I first stripped the auto hubs down on mine some numpty had packed them with copper grease.
Stripped and degreased them and gave them a coat of axle grease.
Not sure about the wd40 stuff ,I just stick with what I know.

 

[Barrbeast]

A quick way to check is to jack up one front wheel (make sure the hub is switched to "unlock") and turn it - you should be able to tell if you're turning the driveshaft or if it's rotating freely and with your lokka fitted I would think it wouldn't rotate at all if the hub is staying locked.

 

[Banshee]

A quick way to check is to jack up one front wheel (make sure the hub is switched to "unlock") and turn it - you should be able to tell if you're turning the driveshaft or if it's rotating freely and with your lokka fitted I would think it wouldn't rotate at all if the hub is staying locked.

Cheers Rob

Gotta get in on stands this week as I'm scrubbing/waxoyling :clap

 

[jims-terrano]

Zimbok, just to confirm that you have fixed hubs, you may already of known this but thought I'd mention it after seeing your photo.

When I had issues with the front propshaft one of the club members removed it for me, might help eliminate noise for you. I ran around for quite some time without the front propshaft.

 

[solarman216]

A quick way to check is to jack up one front wheel (make sure the hub is switched to "unlock") and turn it - you should be able to tell if you're turning the driveshaft or if it's rotating freely and with your lokka fitted I would think it wouldn't rotate at all if the hub is staying locked.

With the hub locked you should be able to turn the wheel in either direction but hear and feel the lokka ratcheting, if you cannot then maybe the lokka was set up wrong, only one wheel off the ground tho, the lokka should only lock when the front prop is turned forcing the locking cogs outwards, and with your hub unlocked you should of course have no resistance at all, Rick

 

[Zimbok]

Thanks for the replies.

Zimbok, just to confirm that you have fixed hubs, you may already of known this but thought I'd mention it after seeing your photo.

Ta for that didn't realise they were fixed hubs.:thumb2

 

[jims-terrano]

Personally I preferred them, my old original truck had autos but changed them to manual locking so I guess I've got best of both worlds with that truck. My project car is still on autos so we'll see what they're like when it's back on the road.
Miss my 05 plate with it's fixed hubs and good looks.