Barrbeast
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2013
- Messages
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So I posted this in my project thread yesterday but I figured anyone searching in the future might struggle to find it :nenau (it's all in one post so it's not some way to bump my post count up by doing multiple posts the same 
)...
So I changed my glowplugs on Sunday.
Hadn't had any trouble starting the Trol, even with the -3 temps we've had recently, but I know the Y61 Trols suffer from Nissan's obsession with ceramic tipped glowplugs :doh and I've had her about 20 months so thought I'd best put metal ones in before I lose any tips...
This will apply for the 3.0 Trols AND the 3.0 Terranos as they're both the ZD30 engine :thumbs
Let's get started...
A big block to stand on is important - especially when your Trol is lifted! :lol
Intercooler cover off followed by the intercooler itself. It's 4 bolts and a nut on the cover (all 10mm) and 4x 12mm bolts on the intercooler. You'll need to undo the jubilee clips on the 2 intercooler pipes as well to remove it (8mm bolt heads) and unplug the boost sensor.
A wee bit oily on part of the underside (the source will become apparent shortly).
You can see the busbar in the above pics but you'll need to take the throttle body off to get at half of it though 3x 10mm bolts (don't lose the metal gasket as you'll need it when you refit it!), 8mm for the jubilee clip and you'll have 2 vac pipes to disconnect (just pull off). Don't get the vac pipes mixed up though, the longer one should be for the the connector nearest the rear of the truck.
Prepare to be shocked at the oily sooty gunk in the throttle body and the pipes leading from it to the intake manifold... (bloody EGR :hmh)
The gunk is actually holding the gasket in place...
Now that the busbar is accessible we can start taking it off - 8mm nuts
You'll next need to take off the rocker cover seals (yes that's right, Nissan decided the glowplugs should protrude through the rocker cover :doh).
They just screw out, I used a flat headed screwdriver to loosen them then unscrewed by hand.
Now it's time to tackle the glowplugs themselves, you'll need a long 12mm socket to get at them. Take it gentle so you don't break them - the fact the socket sits through the hole in the rocker cover helps :thumb2
Old plugs versus one of the new ones - tips looked ok actually (oil is from taking them through the rocker cover).
New plugs in (don't overtighten). The torque ratings are really low 18-24nm so screw in by hand first then tighten a little with the ratchet (my torque wrench doesn't go down that low but that's not much torque at all).
Replace rocker seals - I screwed in by hand then used the flat headed screwdriver to tighten.
Then the busbar.
Now clean up your throttle body before refitting. I'm going to take it off again and soak it in petrol to really clean it but in the meantime I used contact cleaner (evaporates without a residue), a flat headed screwdriver and workshop paper towel to tidy it up...
Don't forget that gasket (I also ran a paper towel round the inlets to the manifold).
Ughh :hmh
Refit throttle body and intercooler (throttle body bolts are torqued to 28nm). Don't forget to refit the vac pipes and the boost sensor.
)...So I changed my glowplugs on Sunday.
Hadn't had any trouble starting the Trol, even with the -3 temps we've had recently, but I know the Y61 Trols suffer from Nissan's obsession with ceramic tipped glowplugs :doh and I've had her about 20 months so thought I'd best put metal ones in before I lose any tips...
This will apply for the 3.0 Trols AND the 3.0 Terranos as they're both the ZD30 engine :thumbs
Let's get started...
A big block to stand on is important - especially when your Trol is lifted! :lol
Intercooler cover off followed by the intercooler itself. It's 4 bolts and a nut on the cover (all 10mm) and 4x 12mm bolts on the intercooler. You'll need to undo the jubilee clips on the 2 intercooler pipes as well to remove it (8mm bolt heads) and unplug the boost sensor.
A wee bit oily on part of the underside (the source will become apparent shortly).
You can see the busbar in the above pics but you'll need to take the throttle body off to get at half of it though
3x 10mm bolts (don't lose the metal gasket as you'll need it when you refit it!), 8mm for the jubilee clip and you'll have 2 vac pipes to disconnect (just pull off). Don't get the vac pipes mixed up though, the longer one should be for the the connector nearest the rear of the truck.Prepare to be shocked at the oily sooty gunk in the throttle body and the pipes leading from it to the intake manifold...
(bloody EGR :hmh)
The gunk is actually holding the gasket in place...
Now that the busbar is accessible we can start taking it off - 8mm nuts
You'll next need to take off the rocker cover seals (yes that's right, Nissan decided the glowplugs should protrude through the rocker cover :doh).
They just screw out, I used a flat headed screwdriver to loosen them then unscrewed by hand.
Now it's time to tackle the glowplugs themselves, you'll need a long 12mm socket to get at them. Take it gentle so you don't break them - the fact the socket sits through the hole in the rocker cover helps :thumb2
Old plugs versus one of the new ones - tips looked ok actually (oil is from taking them through the rocker cover).
New plugs in (don't overtighten). The torque ratings are really low 18-24nm so screw in by hand first then tighten a little with the ratchet (my torque wrench doesn't go down that low but that's not much torque at all).
Replace rocker seals - I screwed in by hand then used the flat headed screwdriver to tighten.
Then the busbar.
Now clean up your throttle body before refitting. I'm going to take it off again and soak it in petrol to really clean it but in the meantime I used contact cleaner (evaporates without a residue), a flat headed screwdriver and workshop paper towel to tidy it up...
Don't forget that gasket (I also ran a paper towel round the inlets to the manifold).
Ughh :hmh
Refit throttle body and intercooler (throttle body bolts are torqued to 28nm). Don't forget to refit the vac pipes and the boost sensor.
