changed the ARB drop links

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mowerman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Messages
233
So today I had to change the ARB drop links ready for the MOT this weekend. What a bugger of a job :eek::eek:... off side one was so knackered it fell apart as soon as I tried to undo it!!! Think it was an origional part?.... took an hour with lots of wd40 and an air hammer to get it off the T2.... now faced with the ball stuck in the ARB :eek:

After much cussing I took the whole ARB off the car and attacked said ball with the grinder :thumb2....Took off the other drop link (different size nuts each side and drop links were different!) then fitted both new drop links to the ARB, offered that up to the T2, loose fitted it allback on the T2 then used a bar to lever each side into the right place and tighten... finally tightened all bolts on ARB and now sorted :clap:clap

Anyone else had this sort of problems?
 
So today I had to change the ARB drop links ready for the MOT this weekend. What a bugger of a job :eek::eek:... off side one was so knackered it fell apart as soon as I tried to undo it!!! Think it was an origional part?.... took an hour with lots of wd40 and an air hammer to get it off the T2.... now faced with the ball stuck in the ARB :eek:

After much cussing I took the whole ARB off the car and attacked said ball with the grinder :thumb2....Took off the other drop link (different size nuts each side and drop links were different!) then fitted both new drop links to the ARB, offered that up to the T2, loose fitted it allback on the T2 then used a bar to lever each side into the right place and tighten... finally tightened all bolts on ARB and now sorted :clap:clap

Anyone else had this sort of problems?
Usually take the ARB off first, makes the whole job much easier. Once the drop links are fitted to the ARB the drop links should line up with the wishbones without any need for a bar or lever! Perhaps your ARB is bent? Whole job shouldn't take more than 30 mins.
 
Usually take the ARB off first, makes the whole job much easier. Once the drop links are fitted to the ARB the drop links should line up with the wishbones without any need for a bar or lever! Perhaps your ARB is bent? Whole job shouldn't take more than 30 mins.

Agreed. Its common that you need to grind one of them off but loosening the main ARB clamps first makes a huge difference to the whole removal/reinstallation process.
 
yes removal of ARB makes job 100% easier then just undo bottom nuts of links can then grind the links of the ARB
 
you can also cut the drop links off the suspension arm with a decent hacksaw if the nut won't budge, surprisingly it does not take long to cut it.
 
hOPE YOU BOUGHT GOOD QUALLITY NEW ONES, MY EBAY PURCHASE LASTED 3 WEEKS
 
Bought from Milners so hope they last longer than 3 weeks :thumb2

I have also given the threads a liberal coating of grease to aid future removal and yes... hindsite is a wonderful thing but was my first time:doh.... remove said ARB first then attack whats left of the links with the biggest tools available !!!
 
Bought from Milners so hope they last longer than 3 weeks :thumb2

I have also given the threads a liberal coating of grease to aid future removal and yes... hindsite is a wonderful thing but was my first time:doh.... remove said ARB first then attack whats left of the links with the biggest tools available !!!

Nah its not that bad! Just a small disc cutter makes light work of cutting any stuck links from the ARB.

I hope you put all the penny washers in the right place - the thing that makes these fail (or more specifically the bushes which go first) is that the location hole in the wishbone isn't very well engineered and can crush the bushes if they aren't fitted properly, and even then thats no guarantee....!
 
Nah its not that bad! Just a small disc cutter makes light work of cutting any stuck links from the ARB.

I hope you put all the penny washers in the right place - the thing that makes these fail (or more specifically the bushes which go first) is that the location hole in the wishbone isn't very well engineered and can crush the bushes if they aren't fitted properly, and even then thats no guarantee....!
Agreed - I always use four penny washers, one either side of the wishbone, the other two in the conventional place on the outside of the bushes - this compensates for any elongation or wear in the hole in the wishbone.
 
changed mine a couple of weeks ago and im sure the thread where the nut goes on had an allen key slot on the end which made the job a piece of cake:thumb2
 
changed mine a couple of weeks ago and im sure the thread where the nut goes on had an allen key slot on the end which made the job a piece of cake:thumb2

:thumbs :thumbs Discovered the same but only after grinding the old one off and racking my brains for an half hour to figure out how to get the new one on without screwing up the rubbers.
 
drop links

my mechanic did mine all round a couple of weeks ago there was a hole for an allen key all done is less than a hour
 
You're talking about the stabilizer bar, changing the ball joint at each end, which sits in the wishbone?
I had to get mine renewed the other month, I took one look at what remained of the rusted metal and brought it to the mechanic's workshop, the work cost around £40. The build quality of the Terrano in exposed places, is Ladaesque.
 
It don't cut the mustard :lol
The only way is a live axle :naughty
 
What does "Ladaesque" mean?

Try Lada-esque....?

Or heres another subtle clue LOL...


2319591.jpg
 
Do you mean Lada-esque, meaning of similar quality to a Lada? :lol

Sorry! Ignore me. Didn't read all of the thread :eek:
 

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