Center dash / Blower controls mk3 T2

[Fez_uk]

Can anyone shed some info on how to remove the center dash on a mk3 t2? Im so used to my old round headlight model.

Im trying to fix my dads t2 blower controls. Can't switch between windscreen, middle, feet vents etc. Guessing controls have come loose.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I can't remember the compete step by step, but basically, you have to take the centre of the dash out, which involves removing the radio, ashtray and centre console to get to all the screws.. You then have to take the glove box, and the apron under the steering wheel out so you can then get to the screws to remove the plastic panel behind the centre bit that you first removed. This then allows you to get to the screws that hold the heater controls in place...

It's a long winded job, and I have to do it again on Suz's car, but keep putting it off... :doh

The problem will be that there is a metal spring clip that looks like a "P" clip where the back of the "P" is missing. One end of it hooks under a bit of plastic, and then there is the curve which goes over the end of the control cable with a couple of prongs that stick down to grip the cable outer, and the other end has a rectangular hole that hooks over a "ramp" style moulding in the plastic. Basically, the first bit of plastic, that the clip slides under snaps off, resulting in the outer casing of the control cable being able to move, rather than the inner.

On Suz's car, I used a hot screw driver to melt a small slot at each end of the metal clip, so I could feed a cable tie round it, which then holds the metal clip back in place.

 

[scrumpydude]

Can anyone shed some info on how to remove the center dash on a mk3 t2? Im so used to my old round headlight model.

Im trying to fix my dads t2 blower controls. Can't switch between windscreen, middle, feet vents etc. Guessing controls have come loose.

Guessing you have done this now but if not ask away. Currently have mine all apart for exactly the same reasons. In my case, both cables (hot/cold and direction) we broken. Happy to take any photos requested but hope to get it back together in the next 24 hours when the epoxy glue has hardened.

 

[Fez_uk]

Yes all sorted. Set the controls to windscreen blower only and left it like that.

Might fix it proper in the future but it will do for now

 

[jims-terrano]

Guessing you have done this now but if not ask away. Currently have mine all apart for exactly the same reasons. In my case, both cables (hot/cold and direction) we broken. Happy to take any photos requested but hope to get it back together in the next 24 hours when the epoxy glue has hardened.

Hi Glyn, I’d like to see the photos if you don’t mind please because I’ve no doubt mine will go at some point too.

Cheers

 

[scrumpydude]

No problem. They will come in installments though.

1 the controller unit
2 same. Different view
3 you can see the break here through the glue
4 top side of same. Will show cable and clip when the glue has hardened
5 you can see two holes I drilled for a cable tie to hold the cable sheath on a previous repair attempt. It didn't hold.

More tomorrow.

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[scrumpydude]

Tonight's installment

1 a cable clip from the controller end
2 being inserted
3 clipped in
4 the work scene
5 panel under steering wheel showing how it clips in. Also 3 screws iirc
6 where that panel meets the instrument cluster. You have to remove a screw holding the centre plastics from the silver/metal hole. However, its under the instrument plastic so you have to remove a screw to the right of the silver metal holding the instrument plastic and heave it up a bit to get access to the screw head.
7 hazard light wiring/connector
8 the controller end of one of the cables
9 direction cable clicked back in place. Cable tie for added security
10 can just about see a green cable tie around the clip holding the hot/cold cable at the lever/flap end
11 view of same cable tie from passenger foot well. I drilled the hole it goes through. When I first repaired it I didn't do this. I just put the cable back in the clip but it just came out again
12 chunky cable presumably going to the ECU which I had to unclip in order to get the drill in
13 the controls back in place held in by two screws. The is also a bit of spring metal the controller slides in and out on. That's held in by a screw too.

Going drive around for a day or two before putting it all back together. Will upload more then.

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[jims-terrano]

Great photos and explanations :clap:clap:clap

 

[scrumpydude]

Going to be a bit of a delay before the rest of the reassembly pics. I have a few instrument/control lamps out and it makes sense to fix them while everything is apart.

First up is the lamp (photo) behind the hot/cold control. Any idea where you can get these? Also I'm wondering if I unclip the leads from the base and straighten them out, will the lamp just pull out to be replaced by some yet unfound, generic, common as muck bulb by reversing the extraction process.

Have never had a dipped headlight light and also the left hand side if the LCD has gone dark. Would be nice to correct those.

P.S. I've read the sticky.

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[jims-terrano]

I used a small 12v bulb with long wire legs, bought mine from Maplins but sadly they went bust. I toyed with the idea of a LED but wasn’t sure if there was such a thing as a 12v LED as space looked tight to solder a resistor in there.

 

[scrumpydude]

This is the stage I'm now at minus the replacement bulb. Did you manage (or even try) to transfer the blue condom?

Maplins passed through my thoughts processes earlier. I miss them.

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[jims-terrano]

Yes the rubber jonny swopped over fine no problem at all.

Another thought is a model shop, the little lights in model trains or scaleextric cars. Jeez I’m going back nearly fifty years when I replaced what I think was the same bulb in a train from my train set.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I used a small 12v bulb with long wire legs, bought mine from Maplins but sadly they went bust. I toyed with the idea of a LED but wasn’t sure if there was such a thing as a 12v LED as space looked tight to solder a resistor in there.

You can get 12v LED's, I have just purchased some for our cars...

Red
https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Product/56-1450

White
https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Product/55-0897

Blue
https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Product/56-3058

They do other colours as well. These you can connect directly to 12v, and do not need a resistor.
https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Search?Query=TruOpto%2012v%20LED

 

[jims-terrano]

Those look just the job Clive :thumbs

 

[scrumpydude]

Excellent. Local motor factors failed me today so just bought 5x OSW5DK3131A on Amazon for £3.98

If you can wait until the new year you can get 10x on Ebay for £2.99

 

[RobN]

Thanks, looks a good website. There are so many things that will be getting LED lights now. I have had so much fun soldering resistors into impossible places, never thought to look for these would have saved numerous burned appendages.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Thanks, looks a good website. There are so many things that will be getting LED lights now. I have had so much fun soldering resistors into impossible places, never thought to look for these would have saved numerous burned appendages.

Glad I am not the only one.


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[johnb5177]

This thread must have a darkly mystical aura about it......

2 days ago my heater fan control switch decided to die, or at least to operate on nothing from 1 - 3, but at least operates on 4 full blast......:bow

So it's console out, and repairs, if possible to the controls, and while I'm there, checking out the bulbs that have also died behind the heater controls.....:nenau

Sadly will now wait for a dry and hopefully, warmer day....

So thank you Clive and everyone else, for providing a detailed description, with pictures of my next job......:doh

 

[jims-terrano]

No no no stop, step away from the console!

Only working on 4 will be the heater resistor pack. Open passenger door whilst kneeling on the floor at the side of the car. Bend you neck double and look up behind the glove box. OK maybe not quite bent double but you get the picture. You’ll see a multiple connector with about 4 or 5 wires, the resistor is a slim plastic thing with the connector on and has a screw at each end holding it into the heater box. Think there’s a download on replacing it. If I remember correctly the Nissan Almera has the same type and is easily available on eBay for under £20 ish.

 

[johnb5177]

Jim,

You're a star......if it's not raining tomorrow (hahaha.....) I will check that out...I can live without the illumination, but the lack of 1-3 is a pain in the a##e...

Thank you...:thumb2