Banshee
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- Joined
- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
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Unless its like this I wouldn't worry :
Mine's the other way round, bottom of tyre that touches floor is pointing inwards and top of tyre outwards
Unless its like this I wouldn't worry :
Have u lifted it yet ?
Then you have pos camber, remove some shims
Brilliant I'll look at doing this next week and takle a peek at the manual
Is it a pig of a job? Maybe I could sell what I remove to Stinka lol
Sorry I can't suss out how to link it but section FA-9 is the bit you need onwards :thumb2
They look more like spring washers to me
Where did you remove them from exactly ?
They look more like spring washers to me
Where did you remove them from exactly ?
I just presumed they were the right thing as they were 3mm like I was told they would be
The washers u need to remove are hidden in the hole which the bolt cam out not the washer round the bolt head that spring washer stops the bolt working loose as ur driving down bumpy roads.
The washers u need to remove are hidden in the hole which the bolt cam out not the washer round the bolt head that spring washer stops the bolt working loose as ur driving down bumpy roads.
There's pics in the manual section I mentioned.
Basically the top arm is spaced off the chassis by some more washers .
So go back and slacken both bolts. Then undo one of them and catch the shim washer that is BEHIND the arm. Refit bolt WITH the spring washers you're trying to give away :lol
Repeat for the other bolt and retighten to the very high torque :thumbs
Good luck :homer
R.T.F.M. :doh
There is a reason, it's because those shims also correct for castor angle . So you can have more shim thickness in the front or rear hole to set the top arm correctly.
You should be using a camber level or similar or else you cant measure the camber angle before or after shim removal.
The manual gives you the right thickness to add/remove per degree of camber /castor you want to correct.
Get it wrong and you'll be shredding tyres and steering like a shopping trolley :lol
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