Bucket seat install

[makeitfit]

Right then girls, as it's so bloody quiet in here 2nite I'll post a teaser
I did a quick fix back in the day to fit bucket seats. Now I'm doing it again, better
The basic T2 frame is usable as is but I found the height a bit too , erm, well, high :augie
As I need to get my helmet in there too I decided the seat frame needs reducing a bit :thumbs
The one on the right is std and needs trimming to be the same as the one on the left.

White line = cutty cutty and or add metal .

Front bit gets turned around and re-welded.

Seat belt weld on nut needs shifting too and then reweld .

So, who's ready for part two ? :naughty
Tune in same time tomorrow for some seat stuff continuation :lamer:

 

[jims-terrano]

Oh bugger you big tease makeitfit:doh

 

[Banshee]

Nice Pete!!!!

I have a mint set of black seats that are in my shed that I took out of the Maverick, I had them off James and took them out of the Maverick when it was written off.

I'm planning on putting them in the Terrano but they need a bit of a clean first as they have small patches of mould on them :doh problem is the seats already in the Terrano have side airbags so I need to see someone do the resistor job before I do mine as I have brought 2 resistors from Maplins as per RayF's spec in another thread.

Also, I know you've gone lower Pete but is there a way I can make the frame higher? Just a tad by adding washers etc? Thought I';d ask as you've had all yours out

Thanks Mate :thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

Depends how much higher I guess. How do you know it needs raising ? I'd use as big a packer as possible, maybe a solid block and drill a hole in it so the load is well spread .

 

[Banshee]

Depends how much higher I guess. How do you know it needs raising ? I'd use as big a packer as possible, maybe a solid block and drill a hole in it so the load is well spread .

It doesn't really need to but I just want to go higher so the driving position is higher

 

[makeitfit]

It doesn't really need to but I just want to go higher so the driving position is higher

Ah I miss read your post. So they were fitted before :thumbs I'd go for simple block under the whole set frame. That way all your plastic trim will still fit :lol
See how I resisted the G word there :naughty

 

[bud]

2004 mazda attenza seats bolt right in ... look goob in my mistral too

 

[makeitfit]

but I like these

Plus harnesses to go in :naughty

 

[makeitfit]

Good evening ladies, part duex commence
There is one special bit of steel needed as the old tube that went across the seat base goes in the scrap when you lower things. It's 2mm thick and folded each edge to give some extra strength. It's the bit on the left here with the earth strap on. It allows plenty of room for seat bolt positioning

Sorry about the welds but it was blinkin' windy It'll buff out.

Here the revised seat belt nut position

Loose bolt position and new holes drilled on the plate ready for the seat.
Here's the under side of the seat so you can see the bolt holes,

Seat is now in but it's dark

 

[makeitfit]

Here you go, daylight pics so it is true

They're in for now so I can get the position worked out for the harness bar :naughty

Look Alex, fire extinguisher

 

[Sweety]

Looking good Pete:thumbs could you not just use one of the rear seat/seat belt mounting points or are they all covered up:nenau nice to see how the Nissan seat frames are set up just need to see how the Corsa VXR ones are done now as some of the VXR's have recaro's with fabric that is a very close match to the trim in my T2

 

[makeitfit]

I'll be using one of the old bolt positions. The one at floor level B post.
I'll put new harness bolts in the middle somewhere and then the harness bar allows for correct harness height without loosing all the space in the back.

 

[Sweety]

It'll need to be a strong bar to cope with the forces that it could be under if there was an accident sadly (hopefully not:thumb2) now the big Q are you going for 3, 4 or 5 point harnesses:lol Would like one of these myself http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sabelt-3-...653?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4633592bcd so I could still carry people in the back when needed but the price has put me off as a normal 3 point harness can be got for £25-30

 

[makeitfit]

4 point, but only cause I've got loads of them
I'm just experimenting with my bender and scaffold bar. It's massive wall thickness and that's way over anything needed. Not MSA I know but then it's not comp spec'
Just keep my noggin safe the next time I park it sideways :lol

 

[Terrano Steve]

I built a kit car many moons ago & found it really hard to get a nice harness that was E marked for road use.
Things may have changed now but only legal harness I could find at the time were 3 point.
All the nice 4 & 5 point harnesses with nice wide belts were not E marked.

 

[makeitfit]

Hmmm, good point , never thought to check for E marks. :augie I'll check first , thanks :thumbs

 

[Fez_uk]

4 point, but only cause I've got loads of them
I'm just experimenting with my bender and scaffold bar. It's massive wall thickness and that's way over anything needed. Not MSA I know but then it's not comp spec'
Just keep my noggin safe the next time I park it sideways :lol

How did the bending go?

 

[makeitfit]

How did the bending go?

Bloody hard. I need to secure the bender and get a longer pump lever. Scaff wall thickness is a beast
Bends are ok though :thumbs

 

[Fez_uk]

Bloody hard. I need to secure the bender and get a longer pump lever. Scaff wall thickness is a beast
Bends are ok though :thumbs

Yeah it does take quite a bit of energy to go it.

Dyfed steels have finally delivered that CDS tube :clap

 

[makeitfit]

Yeah it does take quite a bit of energy to go it.

Dyfed steels have finally delivered that CDS tube :clap

Nice one, have you been a bending it yet ?