Bubbles in coolant..

[Lazy-Ferret]

OK, I am sure I know the answer to this, but I am so hoping someone can tell me of some minor quirk of the T2 that causes this, and it is easy (and cheap) to fix.

We had snow this morning, so I popped out and started the car 10 mins before I set off to drop the wife off at the station this morning. The temp gauge had moved up a bit, but the blowers were still cold. On the return journey, the blowers were still cold, so I shifted the temp control to cold and then back to hot, to make sure I could feel it doing something. Suddenly the car temp gauge went right up to the 3/4 mark, stayed there for a while, and a load of warm air came into the car. It then went back to being cold, and the temp gauge dropped back down to the 1/4 mark, which is lower than normal (Mine seems to run at about 1/3 normally)

Got home, and the expansion tank was empty, took the radiator cap off, and there was no water in there... It took about 3 litres to get it back to full.

I over filled the expansion tank, so I could see what was going in, and started the engine with the radiator cap off, I kept getting little bubbles, and assumed that it was just air moving around the system after it got so low. every time the rad level dropped, I topped it back up, and after a while it seemed OK. Put the cap back on, and squeezed the top and bottom hose to force water through the pipe into the expansion tank, removing the air in the short bit of pipe linking them.

Left it to run for about 10 mins, and then checked it all again... Radiator had dropped again about 1/2 a cup. Topped it all back up let it run for a bit longer, but there were still the occasional bubbles coming though the expansion tank. They seemed to come in little bunches, so nothing, and then a group of 10 or 20 pea sized bubbles, the fine again..

I can't see any leaks, although it is hard to tell when there is slushy melting snow everywhere, but with the heat of the engine, it was dry, and there did not seem to be any wet bits on the rad, or water pump.

One other weird thing, may be unrelated... when I removed the rad cap with the engine running, suddenly, I noticed an absence of noise... I put it back on, and something would start to make a low dry bearing sound, which got louder and louder, until it peaked (The kind of noise you do not notice, as it is always there, until it suddenly goes). Remove the rad cap and it went away again, only to return a short while after the cap was replaced. I think it is either the power steering pump, or water pump, logically the water pump, but I can find no play in either, and still nothing seems to be leaking there...

Any clues...

Can the pump be leaking, and not be visible? or is it more likely the head gasket.

Also does anyone know of a good diesel mechanic down this way (Sevenoaks, Kent), who can be trusted to give the engine a look over, compression test, Blah blah and won't rip me off?

 

[davenclaire]

hi ferret
its looking like head gasket you need to get it sniffed tested i know a guy locslly to me im just up the road from you. ive a mate with a sniff kit i could borrow it and come test it for you if you if thats any good will at least give you a starting point.

dave

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

hi ferret
its looking like head gasket you need to get it sniffed tested i know a guy locslly to me im just up the road from you. ive a mate with a sniff kit i could borrow it and come test it for you if you if thats any good will at least give you a starting point.

dave

That's very kind of you...

I was just coming on here to update my post, as the Sun came out this afternoon, so I rolled the car back so I could lay on the relatively dry bit under it, got a tarp out and had a better look under the car.

Once under it, I spotted some green drips on the bottom front of the Sump, under the main pulley, which is under the water pump. I still can't actually see where it is coming from though. when I started the car up, the water was tracking along the seam of the sump and engine, dripping off the back of the engine, where there was a drip every 2 or 3 seconds.

I have ordered a new pump, belts and anti-freeze from local motor factors, and will have a go at fitting it tomorrow.

If there are still bubbles after that, I would like to take you up on your very kind offer.

 

[solarman216]

noise with rad cap on, going when removed plus drips from water pump area, I would go with water pump, hopefully you running it with low water has not done any further damage, Rick ps I am not far away but not a lot of time at the moment.

 

[davenclaire]

looks like the pump easy job

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

noise with rad cap on, going when removed plus drips from water pump area, I would go with water pump, hopefully you running it with low water has not done any further damage, Rick ps I am not far away but not a lot of time at the moment.

Thanks, it would be nice to meet up with you guys one day to compare notes... I don't know anyone else with one of these, and there are a few quirks that I would love to know whether they are specific to mine, or just generic. I have only ever owned 1 diesel before and since that was a brand new company car, it does not really compare to the 13 year old grumpy old lady I now have.:lol I do still mean the car...:nenau

Anyway, I have just picked up the pump, new belts and 6 litres of bright pink antifreeze, so once I have had my cup of tea, and given the truck a chance to cool off a bit, it's out into the cold (it's still -2 out there) to set to work.:doh

Oh, and I got a nice shiny drain bolt that fits into the hole on the clutch flexible pipe, so I can finally blank off the damper pipe. :clap

 

[Banshee]

Put up as many pics as you can of this please mate, especially of where it's leaking onto under the car

I had exactly the same issue last night and also think I'm leaking coolant onto the drive.

Going to check my coolant level tonight when I get home

I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread

 

[davenclaire]

im working tomorrow (friday) but free the week end if you need a hand with anything i shoulda checked on this sooner i was in seven oaks today to :doh

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Sorry, no pictures, I have only just got back in and seen this.:bow

You know when you start a job, and the signs are bad from the word go....

I had a look in the workshop manual, and a read through Rossco's "Replacing water pump Nissan Mistral 2.7TD" in the download section, working on the idea that it would be pretty close...

So got under car to check for the oil cooler hoses... Hmmm... OK, they don't go to radiator, it just loops round on it's self. Result, nothing to disconnect there...

Just find the drain valve it mentions on the manual... no drain valve... not a problem, I'll just disconnect the bottom hose... Never use the word "Just" when working on a T2

Actually, before I do that, I will work out how to get the bottom shield/cowling off the radiator, while the floor is still dry. Easy... when you know how.

OK, who ever put the jubilee clip on the bottom hose, had a sense of humour, as nothing I have will get onto it... and being 7mm, none of my spanners or sockets are small enough, as they only go down to 8mm... Luckily, one of my Electronic Toolkit spanners fitted, and I undid the jubilee clip an 1/8th of a turn at a time until I could finally twist it round and jet my flexible jubilee driver onto it.

Had my bath in anti-freeze... tastes good as well...:doh

Stood in front, and looked, not sure why the top cowling needs to come off, it looks like it should clear the fan in situ, so decide to try.

Put spanner on top bolt that holds the radiator clamp bracket thing in place, give a slight turn, and it shears off... Is it me, or do these Nissan bolts seem to shear easily, I have had a few go now, and they never take any pressure to do it?

Nervously go to second bolt... it undoes with no problems, in fact, it seemed a bit loose.

Remove top hose, and lift radiator... put radiator back in place, and remove the hose to the header tank, uncliping it from the hose clips as well. Cuss at the clip half way down the cowling, as it will not let go of the pipe, despite how nicely I am talking to it. Slide hose through clip and then get wet feet as the header tank now empties through the hose end that has just fallen towards the floor.

Take second attempt at lifting out the radiator, and it does indeed come out with the cowling on.. Result.

Look down at pump, still no clues to the leak, but now there is water from where the pipes have been removed, so not much help really. Take fan blades off.

Slacken power steering pump adjuster off. and persuade pump to move enough to get drive belt off. Check date on belt and see is the same year as car (99), glad I got replacements.

Look down at bottom pulley and notice 3 belts... Cuss as I only got 2, and now I do not know which 2.. Never even crossed m mind the car would/could have 3 belts.

Slacken off alternator and remove that belt... hmm same size as P/S belt... and only have one of those, well now I know which belt I need.

Spend a while trying to work out why the adjuster pulley on the bottom belt will not slacken off, discover you have to undo the large nut in the middle as well...:doh

Start to remove pump, and notice there is no bolt in the top hole... Cus that sockets will not fit on the bolts, and have to undo them all with spanners.. Pump comes out nice and cleanly, with just a tiny bit of gasket stuck to it, rest of gasket is amalgamated to the engine.. Pump is clean, and no play, but when you hold it and spin it, it makes a sound like rubbing your finger round a wine glass.

Set to work on gasket, wondering how the professionals remove them when they are in an awkward place and you have to work round studs. Opt for bevel edge wood work chisel, just don't tell any carpenters. Discover that the whole top section of the gasket, where the missing bolt was, is not stuck to the engine, making it easy to remove, but you could now see where the water had been running behind it..

Finish cleaning it all up, and fit new pump... spend an hour wading through my various boxes of bolts trying to find one that will replace missing bolt..Finally find a fetching red bolt removed from my Wolseley back in 1984...

Decide that as the drive belts are most likely the original, and it would be a pig to replace them later, decide to walk to motor factor to get missing drive belt... It's only about a mile and a half, so take a ferret along for the walk. Lady at motor factor goes all gooey over ferret, and sorts out new belt. Walk back via Pets at home, as Ferret needs some minced rabbit for tea and is too lazy to go and catch his own..

Get home and fit last belt, re-do all the adjusters, and wonder to self why alternator does not have nice bolt adjuster like other belts?

Drill out sheered bolt, and then go and start going through bolt boxes to find a replacement... no luck..

Refit radiator, sans top brackets, fit all the hoses , and remember to run header tank hose through the clips. Fill with clean water, and run the car for a bit, checking for leaks...

While car is running, have another look for bolt... find one that will do.. not good, but I can sort it out later. Put bolt in, put original bolt that was not seized in it's hole, and it strips the thread... Cus...

Get rivnuts out, find nice shiny metric bolts that are right length, drill out captive nuts and install rivnuts and use nice shiny new bolts to fix radiator in place.

Drain system as it all seems good.

Cus again at not having the drain valve they mention in the manual. Cus even more at jubilee clip on bottom hose... take second shower of the day, sans the sweet taste of antifreeze this time.

Refit bottom hose... You guesses it... cussing all the way as now it is also starting to rain.

Refill with bright pink antifreeze to a 50/50 mixture... run car and bleed the system.

Come into house to warm up, and have a cup of tea, to discover that you wanted pics:doh:doh

 

[Banshee]

Sorry, no pictures, I have only just got back in and seen this.:bow

You know when you start a job, and the signs are bad from the word go....

I had a look in the workshop manual, and a read through Rossco's "Replacing water pump Nissan Mistral 2.7TD" in the download section, working on the idea that it would be pretty close...

So got under car to check for the oil cooler hoses... Hmmm... OK, they don't go to radiator, it just loops round on it's self. Result, nothing to disconnect there...

Just find the drain valve it mentions on the manual... no drain valve... not a problem, I'll just disconnect the bottom hose... Never use the word "Just" when working on a T2

Actually, before I do that, I will work out how to get the bottom shield/cowling off the radiator, while the floor is still dry. Easy... when you know how.

OK, who ever put the jubilee clip on the bottom hose, had a sense of humour, as nothing I have will get onto it... and being 7mm, none of my spanners or sockets are small enough, as they only go down to 8mm... Luckily, one of my Electronic Toolkit spanners fitted, and I undid the jubilee clip an 1/8th of a turn at a time until I could finally twist it round and jet my flexible jubilee driver onto it.

Had my bath in anti-freeze... tastes good as well...:doh

Stood in front, and looked, not sure why the top cowling needs to come off, it looks like it should clear the fan in situ, so decide to try.

Put spanner on top bolt that holds the radiator clamp bracket thing in place, give a slight turn, and it shears off... Is it me, or do these Nissan bolts seem to shear easily, I have had a few go now, and they never take any pressure to do it?

Nervously go to second bolt... it undoes with no problems, in fact, it seemed a bit loose.

Remove top hose, and lift radiator... put radiator back in place, and remove the hose to the header tank, uncliping it from the hose clips as well. Cuss at the clip half way down the cowling, as it will not let go of the pipe, despite how nicely I am talking to it. Slide hose through clip and then get wet feet as the header tank now empties through the hose end that has just fallen towards the floor.

Take second attempt at lifting out the radiator, and it does indeed come out with the cowling on.. Result.

Look down at pump, still no clues to the leak, but now there is water from where the pipes have been removed, so not much help really. Take fan blades off.

Slacken power steering pump adjuster off. and persuade pump to move enough to get drive belt off. Check date on belt and see is the same year as car (99), glad I got replacements.

Look down at bottom pulley and notice 3 belts... Cuss as I only got 2, and now I do not know which 2.. Never even crossed m mind the car would/could have 3 belts.

Slacken off alternator and remove that belt... hmm same size as P/S belt... and only have one of those, well now I know which belt I need.

Spend a while trying to work out why the adjuster pulley on the bottom belt will not slacken off, discover you have to undo the large nut in the middle as well...:doh

Start to remove pump, and notice there is no bolt in the top hole... Cus that sockets will not fit on the bolts, and have to undo them all with spanners.. Pump comes out nice and cleanly, with just a tiny bit of gasket stuck to it, rest of gasket is amalgamated to the engine.. Pump is clean, and no play, but when you hold it and spin it, it makes a sound like rubbing your finger round a wine glass.

Set to work on gasket, wondering how the professionals remove them when they are in an awkward place and you have to work round studs. Opt for bevel edge wood work chisel, just don't tell any carpenters. Discover that the whole top section of the gasket, where the missing bolt was, is not stuck to the engine, making it easy to remove, but you could now see where the water had been running behind it..

Finish cleaning it all up, and fit new pump... spend an hour wading through my various boxes of bolts trying to find one that will replace missing bolt..Finally find a fetching red bolt removed from my Wolseley back in 1984...

Decide that as the drive belts are most likely the original, and it would be a pig to replace them later, decide to walk to motor factor to get missing drive belt... It's only about a mile and a half, so take a ferret along for the walk. Lady at motor factor goes all gooey over ferret, and sorts out new belt. Walk back via Pets at home, as Ferret needs some minced rabbit for tea and is too lazy to go and catch his own..

Get home and fit last belt, re-do all the adjusters, and wonder to self why alternator does not have nice bolt adjuster like other belts?

Drill out sheered bolt, and then go and start going through bolt boxes to find a replacement... no luck..

Refit radiator, sans top brackets, fit all the hoses , and remember to run header tank hose through the clips. Fill with clean water, and run the car for a bit, checking for leaks...

While car is running, have another look for bolt... find one that will do.. not good, but I can sort it out later. Put bolt in, put original bolt that was not seized in it's hole, and it strips the thread... Cus...

Get rivnuts out, find nice shiny metric bolts that are right length, drill out captive nuts and install rivnuts and use nice shiny new bolts to fix radiator in place.

Drain system as it all seems good.

Cus again at not having the drain valve they mention in the manual. Cus even more at jubilee clip on bottom hose... take second shower of the day, sans the sweet taste of antifreeze this time.

Refit bottom hose... You guesses it... cussing all the way as now it is also starting to rain.

Refill with bright pink antifreeze to a 50/50 mixture... run car and bleed the system.

Come into house to warm up, and have a cup of tea, to discover that you wanted pics:doh:doh

haha no worries your explanation seems enough to go on anyways
I'll take a look at the old workshop manual and the quick link download

However from the sounds of it I think I'm going to wait until after christmas to do this lol

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

haha no worries your explanation seems enough to go on anyways
I'll take a look at the old workshop manual and the quick link download

However from the sounds of it I think I'm going to wait until after christmas to do this lol

I will do a proper check tomorrow, but it looks like the bubbles were just the system bleeding it's self... slowly, as now it is back to normal, I have not seen the bubbles any more either.

We are taking the caravan away to Wales for Christmas, so wanted it all sorted before we go. Just trying to work out the best Oil Trap now, so I can put more of it back into the engine, rather than the Turbo.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Well, the good news is, no more bubbles... :thumbs:clap, and the system is still full... Result...

The bad news is, I had heart failure tonight. We went round the M25 to Thurrock, and suddenly the temp gauge fell all the way to cold... I had all sorts of "end of the world" visions going through my mind, and have to say it was a huge relief to find it was just the tab had fallen/snapped off of the temp sender...

So will have a look in daylight, and see if I can be a scrooge, and re-solder it on, or if, I have to go and get a new one.

 

[firebobby]

The bad news is, I had heart failure tonight. We went round the M25 to Thurrock, and suddenly the temp gauge fell all the way to cold... I had all sorts of "end of the world" visions going through my mind, and have to say it was a huge relief to find it was just the tab had fallen/snapped off of the temp sender...

So will have a look in daylight, and see if I can be a scrooge, and re-solder it on, or if, I have to go and get a new one.

I know what you mean, I had the same feeling when the engine oil light came on in my 3.0, stopped and checked the oil level as I had only just changed it, there was plenty in it, so remembering what had been said on here about the pressure switch, a new one was fitted and no problems since