break pedal gets hard...

[Fez_uk]

break pedal gets hard after pressing it down a couple of times then breaks poorly.

my maverick has no abs.

Any ideas?

 

[Kamsin]

Why do you need to press it a couple of times? Have you serviced the calipers, they tend to get siezed up if not looked after.

Have you checked rear shoe ware to see if they need replacing?

Or, it could be the servo unit on its way out, so you will be on manual non assisted brakes. You press like made but not a lot happens. Try having the truck towed (Dont run the engine) and try the brakes that way, if they feel the same the servo is busted.

This is my best guess with out seeing it.

 

[neil_mccoll]

My Troll is having the same issue. My servo is ok, but I've had it confirmed that I am definately loosing pressure in the system somwhere. Both clutch and brake pedals feel hard, especially if i'm in traffic, and on the pedals alot.

 

[Fez_uk]

I just posted to see if anyone had any similar issues and gives me a better idea where to look when I do.

I will check front and back breaks this week if I get time.

 

[Kamsin]

If its a brake problem, MAKE TIME! Its the only thing i dont wait around with, if the brakes need sorting they get sorted. Tomorrow maybe too late if that car pulls out on you.
IMHO

 

[Fez_uk]

I won't be driving it much, maybe 4 miles tomorrow then I can have a look at it Wednesday.

 

[solarman216]

first items to check are the vacuum pump on the rear of the alternator, and the condition of the vac hoses inside as well as out, any leaks here and you will not have the vacuum reserve you should have, Rick

 

[rustic]

Normally if you turn the engine off then press the pedal several times, it does exactly as you described.

So it confirms that you are not creating enough vacuum, or are loosing it as fast as you are creating it.

Do a few more revs make it better ?

Does the brake warning light come on ?

 

[Fez_uk]

No brake warning light, I will try more revs tomorrow and get a proper look with a torch.

 

[rustic]

The vacuum created is also used for other controls, so check the smaller pipes as well, you may have disturbed one when you had the nearside wing off, doing your snorkle.

Also check the vacuum switch which is near or on the nearside inner wing.

Another member had the same problem after having the front stud re-weded on the exhaust, a spark burn't a small hole in one of the control pipes.
I suggested he checked the pipes as this happened on his.

So first think what have you been doing in that area recently.:nenau

 

[Fez_uk]

Also check the vacuum switch which is near or on the nearside inner wing

Is it the thing near the battery? As I put that bigger battery in and it was quite a tight fit. Could of knocked it while offroading.

Or the other side?

 

[rustic]

Is it the thing near the battery? As I put that bigger battery in and it was quite a tight fit. Could of knocked it while offroading.

Or the other side?

On the TD it is on the nearside ( near exhaust) so assume Tdi is the same.

Just follow the small pipes.

 

[laurieash]

On the TD it is on the nearside ( near exhaust) so assume Tdi is the same.

Just follow the small pipes.

Try with engine off, put foot on brake, then start engine to see if pedal goes down. if so servo is working.

 

[Fez_uk]

Try with engine off, put foot on brake, then start engine to see if pedal goes down. if so servo is working.

the pedal goes down a bit, maybe 1/3 down.

Looked around the truck can't see any breaks in the pipe. Also can't find the vacuum switch. Unless I see it but don't know if it is it.

 

[Fez_uk]

Ok think I have found the vacuum switch, might try a new one see if that helps.

 

[rustic]

Ok think I have found the vacuum switch, might try a new one see if that helps.

The vacuum switch only gives you a warning light if the vacuum is low, unless it is allowing air in.
If the vacuum switch is working correctly, test it by pulling the pipe off it, then the vacuum pump is probably ok, so there may be a blockage between the pump and the servo.
Or the valve in the servo is faulty.

Or the sevo is faulty.


The foot on the pedal, when starting engine, goes down a third, is correct.

So you are getting some vacuum, but may be not enough to allow you to pump the brakes more than twice, most of us can probably do this 3-4 times with the engine running... before we get the warning light.

Maybe we should check, say press it every second.. release... and again and count how many times we can do it before the warning light comes on...

Then we can compare results.

Without doing the test to the same conditions, then we can't compare results.
:thumb2

 

[Fez_uk]

Maybe it was like it before, Thinking this because I don't think I pumped it as much? Maybe im going crazy.

I pump it like 5 or a few more times and starts to get stiffer untill about 10 pumps it gets very hard? Is this normal?

 

[rustic]

Maybe it was like it before, Thinking this because I don't think I pumped it as much? Maybe im going crazy.

I pump it like 5 or a few more times and starts to get stiffer untill about 10 pumps it gets very hard? Is this normal?

If you pump it 10 times it gets hard .... oooohh Mrs :naughty

Like I said we need to compare, but sounds about right.

 

[macabethiel]

break pedal gets hard after pressing it down a couple of times then breaks poorly.

my maverick has no abs.

Any ideas?

Check all the brake vacuum lines there are loads of them I replaced about 7 of mine and it sorted it out. If yours is a diesel there is a vacuum pump that can fail but its usually down to perished rubber. I fitted aftermarket silicone ones.

Start at the servo and work your way back to the various y pieces until you reach the pump.

 

[macabethiel]

No brake warning light, I will try more revs tomorrow and get a proper look with a torch.

I am pretty sure you have a brake warning lamp it red and shared as a handbrake on warning lamp.

You can test the brake warning light quite easily as its a shared light with the handbrake.

With the ignition on and the handbrake on is the red brake lamp light on the dash illuminated?
If it is the dash bulb is working next:-

Start the engine with the handbrake off. Switch off the engine and put the ignition back on and start pumping the brake pedal. After 5-15 or so pumps of the pedal you should have exhuasted the vacuum reseroir and the red brake warning light should come on. That is quite normal.

If the light comes on after only one or two pumps then you are loosing vacuum somewhere.

Even when everything is working OK you will loose some servo assistance with cadence type braking. Hope this helps.