Thanks, The discs look OK, so I will just get pads for now.
Are the callipers easy to work on, I want to grease the moving parts, is there anything I should watch out for.
To push the pistons back in, use a block of wood on the piston, and a G clamp.
CAUTION.....
As you are doing this, the level in the reservoir is rapidly back filling, and can overflow, the fluid will strip paint.
So check the level, and carefully remove any excess fluid. A turkey baster is quite good, but the fluid can damage some plastics too.
Have a water spray handy, any spillages, wash off immediately, DO NOT wipe off with a cloth, or it will remove the paint.
Use copper grease sparingly, on the contact face of the pistons, on the metal to metal contact points on the extremes of the pads. On the back of the pads and the anti squeal shims, if fitted, sometimes these rust and are not replaced.
While you are at it, clean and grease the sliders, on the calipers.
DO NOT contaminate the disc or pad with grease. Use some brake cleaner to degrease the disc, wear rubber gloves and change them to new when doing the final assembly.
Lightly apply the brakes when fully assembled, so you know they are seated correctly.
I always burnish the pads when I fit new, as the brakes are really cr*p until they bed in.
So what is burnishing? This is what I do, it works for me.
I choose two roundabouts about half a mile apart, drive to 30 mph, and use the brakes lightly to slow down at each round about, do this a dozen times.
What I find, it helps to bed in the pads to the disc without over heating, and also helps to prevent scoring of the disc if heavy braking is done before the pads are bedded in.
After a few cycles, stop, check the discs that they are not too hot, and increase the braking force as you bed them in.
Hope it helps,
Best regards,
Rustic
For the whole of the 18 years I have owned my Maverick, it has always passed the MOT first time.:doh
