Brake pad change

[JonathanM]

I need to change my front brake pads before the Derbyshire greenlane run, but have not got around to getting a manual on CD rom yet. Anyone talk me through the steps for a 2001 TDI?

 

[Guest]

i think its remove wheel and remove lower bolt and thats about it, isn't it?

min pad thickness 2mm

 

[Toolbox]

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove lower slider bolt on calliper
3. Swing cylinder body upward.
4. Remove pad and anti-noise shims.
5. Carefully press pistons back in to cylinders, checking that they are free to move.
6. Check both slider pins in calliper are free and pin boots are not split.
7. Fit pads and shims lower cylinder body and replace lower slider pin bolt.
8. Pump brake pedal and check brake fluid level.

 

[Guest]

just being cheeky, but should you not also put cloth around resovoir and remove top before pressing pistons back?

just an extra thought you should also chock rear wheels and apply handbrake and jack up car before removing wheels.

Sorry Toolbox, couldn't help it. :lol:

 

[rossco]

While you are there check the discs for depth as they can wear out as well.

A lot of people replace the pads but forget about the disc, particularly if they have been machined a couple of times before you got the vehicle :wink:

Pads 10mm new - minimum 2 mm

Disc 26mm standard - minimum 24 mm

 

[JonathanM]

Thanks guys, more the actual process for pad removal that I needed.

I really need to try & get a CD rom manual from somewhere. All in good time though.

 

[rossco]

Drop a PM to Shark1e about a CD manual a good place to start :wink:

 

[JonathanM]

Drop a PM to Shark1e about a CD manual a good place to start :wink:

I keep meaning to.....

 

[kentlad]

would it be the same routine for a 95mav 2.4 petrol lwb

 

[Toolbox]

Yes Kentlad all the same mate.

 

[schultz]

Brake anti-noise shims

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove lower slider bolt on calliper
3. Swing cylinder body upward.
4. Remove pad and anti-noise shims.
5. Carefully press pistons back in to cylinders, checking that they are free to move.
6. Check both slider pins in calliper are free and pin boots are not split.
7. Fit pads and shims lower cylinder body and replace lower slider pin bolt.
8. Pump brake pedal and check brake fluid level.

I read the above, which relates to a question on a 2001 model, prior to replacing the pads on my T2 1998. I did the driver's side and there were no such shims. The pads had been rattling, but I think that was due to the rather feeble coiled spring things on top of the pads not locating in the caliper properly and then snapping off when I tried to engage them. On my new pads these springy bits are more substantial. I didn't do the other side 'cos ran out of time and now it is raining, so don't know if that side will have shims or not. I took the car for a quick test run and the rattling had stopped.
Question is : should there be such shims on my model, and if it should,is it vital to fit them?

ta, John

 

[ronypony]

A wee tip...to get the pistons back in the calipers use one of those G clamps from B&Q ..the ones with a trigger action so you can do it one handed...makes the job a cinch.

 

[schultz]

I actually used a pair of plumber's pipe grips to get the pistons in. They went in easy enough, but on completion the brake pedal feels very very spongey.
Bollocks . Could it be air has got in the system or have I jiggered up the master cylinder seals ? Should have just stuck to changing the oil and the filter and lived with the rattle from the pads. Ho Hum.

 

[schultz]

It was only a little swear word but more than 4 letters :smile: .

 

[Toolbox]

Schultz,

Firstly it is always good practice to change both sets of pads, so if you haven’t done the other side yet, then get it done.
Secondly, there should be shim but it will be ok without them you can always pick up some new ones at a later date.
As to regards to your “spongy” pedal will it pump up hard after a few pumps if so this is a sign of air in the system, god knows how it got there though.
It may also be the seals in the master cylinder, in some extreme cases when pushing the piston back in the calliper the seals turn over in the master cylinder this is often cause by forcing the piston back to quickly.

 

[Deleted Member S]

Hi Toolbox :smile: I know this maybe a silly Q but where are these shims fitted :?: As I had to remove my pads the other month to get out the dried up mud out of the caliper & from behind the backing plate as it started to grind :roll: but did'nt find any shims :?

 

[Toolbox]

Hi there Sweety,

They are slotted in the end of the pistons, I am not 100% that all the T2s had / have them, no big deal really as they are only to stop noise/squeal and in my opinion can be done with out.

 

[Deleted Member S]

Thanks for that Toolbox :smile: :smile: :smile: Mine must have been weeeeeeeeee bits at some stage then :lol: :lol: :lol: as there was nothing on the pistons :roll: I know a lot of rover cars had them on the pistons & where the brake pads fit/slide in the caliper & was worried if these where the shims you were on about as there is'nt any there either:roll:

 

[schultz]

Thanks Toolbox,

I did the other side the next day, so all is equal. The pedal doesn't become firm no matter how many times I pump, so I think it is the master cylinder seals, although I was fairly gentle with the pedal when I first pumped it back up. Presumably Nissan sell seal kits, they did for my Patrol when similar happened, but that one wasn't my fault.
Also the brakes are now binding somewhat, will that disappear once they are bedded in ?

John

 

[Toolbox]

If Nissan don’t do a seal kit then try http://www.brakesint.co.uk/index.html.

The brakes shouldn’t be binding, but you can expect to hear them sounding a bit rough/grinding until they bed in, harsh breaking should be avoided for the first couple of hundred miles as well.