Brake lights dead. Absolutely dead

[shadowbroker]

Hello again folks.

Today's problem are my brake lights.

I have had this truck for about two years and every few months I end up replacing the fuse for the brakes because it blows.

So a few days ago it did it again while I was a few hours from home. I only had a 30amp fuse so used that, meaning to change it when I got back but forgot to do that. And last night I had no brakes again. Checked the fuse hasn't popped the lights aren't dead the brake peddle switch look ok and the bulb holders seem fine.

Just wondering if there is a relay I can look for as well.

Many thanks for your help.

 

[macabethiel]

Brake lights

If you have been blowing fuses looks as though there is a wiring short somewhere and stepping up the fuse rate has caused wiring failure somewhere in the loom.

I would start from the bulb holders and work back looking at possible chaffing points and areas where perhaps the loom could have been damaged. If it has a tow bar then look at where the power has been connected in the tow plug socket etc and of course earth connections are often culprit.

 

[rustic]

I would guess that by fitting the 30 amp fuse, the fuse is no longer the weakest link.
A wire may have burnt out, which could have damaged other wires in the loom.
Do you have a tow bar? if so I would be looking at where this is tapped in. and the wiring in the socket.

Tip:-
If you suspect a wiring fault, and you are fault finding, rather than keep popping fuses, I use an old headlight bulb, the full beam is usually intact, and wire this in as a fuse, if a short occurs, then the current is limited to 5 amps, the bulb lights as an indication and you are on your way to locating the fault.
Note:- the bulb gets hot so make sure it is clear of anything that matters.

Rustic

 

[shadowbroker]

found the bugger

i was wrong, it does seem to be the switch in the brake pedal. i removed the electrical connection from the switch and bridged its connection, and presto-bango the brake lights worked. hooked the supply back to the switch and then they are dead again.

can the switch be fixed or or do i need a new one from some place?

thank you for pointing me in the right direction also

 

[shadowbroker]

i was wrong, it does seem to be the switch in the brake pedal. i removed the electrical connection from the switch and bridged its connection, and presto-bango the brake lights worked. hooked the supply back to the switch and then they are dead again.

can the switch be fixed or or do i need a new one from some place?

thank you for pointing me in the right direction also

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/N...631f9f348e51087d7dd16a5bff2fbd5e0f73a1&000415 guess i can get that.

 

[rustic]

The broken switch doesn't explain why the fuses blow, unless there is a short to earth at the switch. Unlikely...
I still think there is a short elsewhere, which having fitted the 30 amp fuse has probably taken out the weakest link, which is now the switch.:doh

Fitting a new switch could be a very expensive fuse...

I still think you have an intermittent short somewhere...

Rustic

 

[Banshee]

Swap the switch first and go from there

 

[solarman216]

The broken switch doesn't explain why the fuses blow, unless there is a short to earth at the switch. Unlikely...
I still think there is a short elsewhere, which having fitted the 30 amp fuse has probably taken out the weakest link, which is now the switch.:doh

Fitting a new switch could be a very expensive fuse...

I still think you have an intermittent short somewhere...

Rustic

I go with that, fuses do not blow for nothing, do not ignore your uncle Rustic, Rick

 

[jims-terrano]

Get a few of the correct fuse, replace the switch and see what happens. I would defo have a really good look at towbar wiring, remember if you don't have a towbar now the car may of had one that was removed. Think there is a towing eye at the back that gets removed to fit a towbar so that will be missing. Normally the towbar cables come through the rear most part of the sill at the passenger side. However I have seen people scotch lock in to the wires directly at the back of the rear lamps which is asking for trouble.

 

[rustic]

...Think there is a towing eye at the back that gets removed to fit a towbar so that will be missing...

No not on the Terrano/Maverick, mechanically, it's the easiest tow bar to fit, three bolts each side through the recovery plates.

Scotch locks are a definate no no if there is any sign of moisture or condensation.
Some alarm and towbar fitters use them as they are cheap and quick, and normally outlast the warranty period.... just :doh
I have used crimps, but even these in a moist area will eventually fail, first the copper wire goes green, then becomes an open circuit, and often the crimp fatigues and breaks in half. A dab of waxoyl helps if low voltage applications.
For damp areas, soldering and waterproof heat shrink sleaving will last the longest.
Covering in self amalgamating tape also helps.
It is best to do all tow bar wiring within the car, which will mean removing the inner rear nearside panel, maybe the off side too.

To be fair, I have never owned a car as long as this, ( 20+years) and the wiring or lights have never caused me any problems, other than changing the odd bulb.
However, I occasionally wash down the underside, more often in winter, to wash away salt deposits, and top up any waxoyl, and keep the Mav in a warm garage... I'm sure this helps lol.:augie

 

[shadowbroker]

Sorry. I'm an ignorant tw@t.

I fixed it it was the sensor on the pedel, gotten all dirty inside.

Works nice now with no fuses blowing or bulbs going. Just used carb cleaner.