Bosch Injector Pump Swap

[Banshee]

So it's looking very very likely that it's the Bosch Injector Pump that is at fault on my truck and causing my EML light to come on. Every time the fault codes are read I get the same 1 code without fail....... 21

Which as per the download reads;

Fuel injection timing solenoid/injector needle lift, sensor-malfunction

And states the causes as being;

Wiring, fuel injection timing solenoid, injector needle lift sensor, CKP sensor, air in fuel

So far I've done the following;

Replaced the No1 Injector and Sensor
Replaced CKP sensor
Refurbished fuel tank and all rubber piping, gasket, and fuel clamps
Replaced fuel lines totally from back to front for Kunifer
Fitted original size filter back to the truck and ensured that there's no bubbles of air in the fuel by cracking the injectors.

I've also been recording the behaviour of when and what causes it to come on including factors such as weather/temperature, driving manner etc

I've also ran it on pure Diesel for a few weeks to ensure that all the veg was out the system and it still illuminates so makes no odds what fuel I use.

I've been avoiding it like the plague, but kind of knew all along that it was probably going to be the IP and I'm fortunate to have a spare sitting on the workbench.

I got around to inspecting it the other day and as I suspected it seems to be weeping from the rear near where the injectors are fed from on the pump head, I suspect that the seal has gone here and as a result drawing air in causing the EML (I Hope :bow)

Hereon, I think I have two choices I can either try and replace the seal that has perished for a Viton seal with the pump on the truck which is doable when you watch the video below however access there is perfect whereas I'll be attempting this through the drivers wheel arch using the 2" gap my bodylift has graced me with and from underneath too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lm9TM4-b1Y&feature=youtu.be

My other option is to put the spare pump on the truck once I've rebuilt it with Viton seals on the workbench. I have real concerns though and worried about the timing of the pump when I've removed it etc.

I know one or two of you have done this swap in the past and I'd be grateful of any first hand knowledge, tips, tricks, pictures , ANYTHING :bow :bow

Until then I'm going back to basic basics and watch how this thing actually does it's job then start looking through some more advanced schematics and more advanced videos on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqBlqdeP3uE

Please fire away guys, don't be shy, I need my comrades with this one :bow :bow

 

[Banshee]

I've scoured the whole engine bay and checked everything you can think of and that's not a leak that has originated from elsewhere, it's got to be the perished seal on the pump head.

I'll be swapping for a Viton which will stop the veg doing this again

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232228949522?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[solarman216]

I would be up grading your spare pump with the new seals, to try and do it in situe runs the risk of debris entering the pump, not good, the only thing I do not know is the "new" pump may need calibrating to the ECU, which will be a Nissan dealer job, Rick

 

[Banshee]

I would be up grading your spare pump with the new seals, to try and do it in situe runs the risk of debris entering the pump, not good, the only thing I do not know is the "new" pump may need calibrating to the ECU, which will be a Nissan dealer job, Rick

I'm pretty sure Panelbeater did a pump swap and din't need the main dealer :nenau

Not sure if that was Bosch or Zexel though

 

[solarman216]

I only say that for when I had a, dare I say it a, RR and when fitted an exchange pump ran like a bag of shit till I took it to dealer, then it was fine, poss T2 are not as fussy, Rick

 

[Blocky10]

Now watched your vids and I reckon you'd manage the job no probs. I'd buy a pair of seal kits though and if all goes well you can then reseal your spare pump.
That engine was well clean though. Getting dirt in the pump would be trouble.
Go for it I say:thumbs

 

[panelbeater]

oh dear.
now from memory as you know i did my green one,rad out,fan off,front cover from ip off,be aware a hidden boil its like a nut on front then another inside cover,take vacuum pump off disconnect the 4 hi pressure injector feeds,under the pump i think there are 2 big bracket bolts,then the ip front bolts,fuel line to ip and return need to come off.
pull the cover of off the front of ip then undo the nut holding sprocket,important to time the pulleys up perfectly first.
i used a puller to remove it but left it in situe so not getting out of time.
replacement is backwards of taking it out.
very carefully line up ip keyway shaft to gear and put in place then get the ip front bolts to line up.
when i did mine a 99 2.7 it took a while to get air out and then it fired up and ran 100%,its still in and ok no dealer timing needed.ip was bosch i got from rick at a fair price.
i am sure rick will put right anything i have left out.
i will say in situe it was not easy.
good luck.
been away for a few weeks so not been posting.
welding up green t2 front panel bumper and fitting the new fiber wings at last.

 

[Banshee]

oh dear.
now from memory as you know i did my green one,rad out,fan off,front cover from ip off,be aware a hidden boil its like a nut on front then another inside cover,take vacuum pump off disconnect the 4 hi pressure injector feeds,under the pump i think there are 2 big bracket bolts,then the ip front bolts,fuel line to ip and return need to come off.
pull the cover of off the front of ip then undo the nut holding sprocket,important to time the pulleys up perfectly first.
i used a puller to remove it but left it in situe so not getting out of time.
replacement is backwards of taking it out.
very carefully line up ip keyway shaft to gear and put in place then get the ip front bolts to line up.
when i did mine a 99 2.7 it took a while to get air out and then it fired up and ran 100%,its still in and ok no dealer timing needed.ip was bosch i got from rick at a fair price.
i am sure rick will put right anything i have left out.
i will say in situe it was not easy.
good luck.
been away for a few weeks so not been posting.
welding up green t2 front panel bumper and fitting the new fiber wings at last.

Thanks for the detailed reply Panelbeater :thumb2

If it does appear it is as simple as swapping the pump like for like with no having to re-pair with the ECU then I've decided I'm going to re seal the pump I have on the bench and slap that on.

I'm just really worried about the timing though, I don't have the sprocket from the old pump and have no idea at what position it is resting in, is it going to be a case of opening it up and just looking what position the cam is inside?

Also, could you link me to a suitable puller?

 

[solarman216]

Do not worry about timing, when you take the cover plate off the front you will see the whole of the pump gear and part of the one that it meshes with, just turn the engine till the timing marks on the two gears match up, this will put the pump wood-ruff key at the top so it will not fall out when you remove the gear, the only difficult part is the gears are skew cut so as you replace the gear on reassembly it will turn slightly so putting it out of alignment with the wood-ruff key, be very careful it does not fall out, re puller I am fairly sure there are two threaded holes, like the rear drums, you just need a bit of bar with two holes and a couple of bolts, I have an engine on the bench so will pull plate off tomorrow and confirm, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Do not worry about timing, when you take the cover plate off the front you will see the whole of the pump gear and part of the one that it meshes with, just turn the engine till the timing marks on the two gears match up, this will put the pump wood-ruff key at the top so it will not fall out when you remove the gear, the only difficult part is the gears are skew cut so as you replace the gear on reassembly it will turn slightly so putting it out of alignment with the wood-ruff key, be very careful it does not fall out, re puller I am fairly sure there are two threaded holes, like the rear drums, you just need a bit of bar with two holes and a couple of bolts, I have an engine on the bench so will pull plate off tomorrow and confirm, Rick

You're going to earn yourself a bottle of scotch at this rate Rick :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

Panelbeaters method of leaving the gear in place is good if you have two people, one to hold/position the pump, the other to hold the gear, Rick

 

[panelbeater]

yes two bolts on bar and i did my ip on own just a bit awkawed.

 

[Banshee]

yes two bolts on bar and i did my ip on own just a bit awkawed.

I'm not sure what you mean by two bolts on bar :nenau

 

[solarman216]

yes the gear has two bolt holes for removal same size as the bolts that hold the cover on, with a bit of bar no longer than the diameter of the pulley about 5 to 10 mm thick, drill two holes to match the holes in the pulley, slacken the pump nut a turn or so, do not remove it, this will stop the pulley jumping off the shaft and protect the thread from damage, select the right length bolts pass them through your plate and screw them into the pulley about 6 turns each, if there is a space tween plate and nut, then drop a spacer in to take up the gap, tighten the two bots evenly till pulley pops, make sure the bolts do not go so deep through the pulley that they contact the plate behind, timing marks are two z z on the pump the mark on the drive pulley must sit between the two z's, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Been watching videos, scanning manuals, looking at anything I can find online about these pumps and how they work. I've obtained the Viton Head Seal and just need to get the quantity adjuster seal now I think it is and then I'm going to set about the rebuild and swap.

Here's some pics to wet your appetites

Rick was on the money again with the " z z " markings

 

[makeitfit]

Slight hijack but on a theme
I have a manual pump off a scrapper and will be fitting it to my Zexel TDi but it's not timed!
Are these zz marks reciprocated on the cam gear ?
Thankyouplease :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

Slight hijack but on a theme
I have a manual pump off a scrapper and will be fitting it to my Zexel TDi but it's not timed!
Are these zz marks reciprocated on the cam gear ?
Thankyouplease :thumb2

Should be i'd guess but I've not looked myself yet, not got anywhere near that stage and didn't even know of their existence until Rick mentioned them very recently

 

[panelbeater]

dont forget on ip pulley will be a mark that goes in between the zz marks,i think its an a from memory

 

[Barrbeast]

Was looking through some of the Trol forums and found this link which might be helpful bro :thumb2

http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild

 

[Banshee]

Was looking through some of the Trol forums and found this link which might be helpful bro :thumb2

http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild

Seen that bro and got it bookmarked :thumb2

Seems every time I see another rebuild process there's another seal that needs swapping :doh

I'm on a count of 4 now