Bit of a odd one..

[Paul]

Anyone known the gear lever to get hot when driving long distance?

 

[BigBlack]

Yep, Ive had this when towing long distances, after a couple of hours cruising at 60ish... I wouldnt say 'hot' but warmer, and def not caused by the heaters. Checked all oils etc though and all fine so never really gave it much more thought.

Another thing I had once was a bag of choclate melting on the passenger floor next to the gear lever after a long haul

This was on a 2001 2.7TDi.

 

[Paul]

Never noticed it till the other day..

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

i've never gven this any thought, but i will now, in facct this will mke me paranoid! cheers mate :doh

 

[Paul]

i've never gven this any thought, but i will now, in facct this will mke me paranoid! cheers mate :doh

Thats what friends are for!! :lol :lol

 

[zippy656]

um, the exhaust go down that side?

 

[BigBlack]

um, the exhaust go down that side?

Yep, thats what I put it down to.... still ruined my choc's though!!!!

 

[rossco]

What you'll find is that the rubber booty for the gear shift and 4x4 lever has perished.

Remove the center console between the front seats and expose the levers. The rubber booty acts as a insulator where the hole in the floor pan is allowing the levers to come up from the gear box.

The hot air comes up from the exhaust and the engine.

On the Mistrals this is a common problem and if you go to the wreckers you'll find they are in the same condition. The only way is to replace or try and repair.

 

[rustic]

Warmer weather as well, I noticed this when towing 2 tonne over 200 miles, in the summer, I have put a temperature sensor on the gear box and a spare gauge, hasn't done it since, but I expect it will when I tow the boat again.
The engine is hot, the gearbox is getting warm, there will be additional conducted heat from the engine to the gearbox as well as from the exhaust.

If you are using more fuel when towing, this extra heat has to go somewhere.

Best regards,
Rustic

 

[macabethiel]

OK so it a different motor but on my old 850cc Mini back in 1967 if I drove on the motorway the old two foot long early gear shift not only got hot but when you left the Motorway and tried to change gear it was almost impossible to get it out of top or change gear until it had cooled down - this only took about 5 mins.

You could fry an egg on the drivers floor as well !

 

[Paul]

Thank's all, that as put my mind to rest.. :thumb2

Paul.

 

[rustic]

OK so it a different motor but on my old 850cc Mini back in 1967 if I drove on the motorway the old two foot long early gear shift not only got hot but when you left the Motorway and tried to change gear it was almost impossible to get it out of top or change gear until it had cooled down - this only took about 5 mins.

You could fry an egg on the drivers floor as well !

My first car was a Mini, 850cc 1971 version, it had the floor mounted long gear lever, guess what gear you are in.... the lever moved 6" side to side when it was in gear....

The later ones had the remote shift and were better.

When I investigated the reason for the "sloppy stick" it was mostly caused by loose mechanical connections, some shims (ie bit of thin metal from an oil can) wrapped under the clamps helped this. Also the fact that there was a grease nipple on the rear of the box where the selector slid through, it never got greased so wore like hell. Bet you didn't know that was there....

My floor never got hot.... it was air conditioned, like many Minis of that era,
if you went through a puddle you lifted your feet out of the way.:lol
The boot floor dropped out on mine through rust and also all of the spare parts I carried. Oversized battery, 2 spare wheels as I was changing over from cross ply to radials, and money was tight.
A spare gallon of petrol because the fuel gauge was broken.
A spare distributor, complete with new points and cap and marked up so it was a straight swap, 2 minute job. A coil, Haynes manual or equivalent.
A heavy tool box, a bypass hose (common failure...) tow rope, jump leads, even AA membership.... Gallon of oil, 1 pint per full tank (5 gallons). Gallon of water.
I think the engine was 850cc but the bore had worn to 1000cc :lol a bit of piston slap.. I guess.
Tried that piston Seal once, added to each cylinder, boy the smoke screen was like James Bonds car for about 10 miles.:doh
Made no difference though....

I was never stranded, broke down every month but I had the spares in the boot.....

It was a good car ......:nenau

 

[macabethiel]

Well I always carried a tool box that filled the Mini boot (It had twin tanks as per "Cooper S"), most weekends were spent removing the engine and changing the camshaft etc.

I used a Farmers tree that hung over the road into my Dads house driveway to hang my block & tackle from to remove the engine !

I could remove the engine & gearbox in 50 minutes flat but putting it back always took about about two hours.

It only broke down once when the oil pump drive snapped due to worn camshaft bearings. On the early 850 the camshaft ran directly in the block for two out of the three bearing surfaces.

I used to commute most weekend from Derby to Bradfor Uni for four years 1967-71.

Good days !