best size of cable to install 2nd battery

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RJL Services

Well-known member
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Jan 23, 2011
Messages
615
hi

i was just looking on fleabay and i wanted to know what would be the best size of battery cable to run new leads to 2nd battery via split charge relay:thumb2
 
When I looked into it, I found it was cheaper to buy a reasonable pair of heavy duty Jump leads, and use the wire from them, than buy the cable by the meter.

They do tend to "Over rate" jump leads, e.g. saying they are 800amp, but when you check the cable size you find it is only 100amp continuous use, or saying it has 8mm cable, then you find they are talking about the overall diameter, inc insulation, rather than the cross sectional area, so in the end, I got a pair I could look at in Tesco's of all places. Then saw a pair at a boot fair the following week, for a quarter of the price:doh

You will also find that while Jump leads tend to be over rated, welding wire is the other way round. In the end, I read up an a few websites that take into account duty cycle, voltage, lack of bundling.. blah blah and went with 16mm2 cable, 140amp relay and with 125amp fuses at each end.

Going by the websites, 16mm2 cable should be good for about 300amps, so working on the idea that it should be over engineered, and there should be very little volt drop over that size cable I went with the heavy duty 4 metre jump leads, giving me 8 metres of cable. The main problem is, to do the job safely you need so many joins in the wire, all of which will have a slight effect on the overall resistance, and add up.

Mine goes
  1. from battery clamp to 1st fuse holder (4 joins) bat term to clamp, clamp to cable, cable to soldered on terminal ring, Terminal ring to bolt on fuse holder
  2. through fuse (2 joins), fuses bolt onto cable terminals
  3. from fuse holder to relay (4 Joins) Terminal bolt on fuse holder, terminal ring soldered on to Cable, cable to soldered on terminal ring, bolt to relay
  4. from relay to terminal distribution block (3 joins) relay bolt to terminal ring, terminal ring soldered onto cable, cable into distribution block.
  5. Distribution block to second fuse (3 joins) Distribution block to cable, cable soldered to terminal ring, Terminal ring to bolt on fuse holder
  6. through fuse (2 joins), fuses bolt onto cable terminals
  7. from fuse holder to second battery clamp. (4 joins) bolt on fuse holder to Terminal ring, terminal ring soldered onto cable, cable to clamp, clamp to battery.

From a wiring point of view that is a scary 22 connections in the cct adding resistance that can stop the second battery charging properly, which is why it is so it important to go with bigger rather than smaller cable, and make sure all of your joins are properly crimped, or soldered.

The main problem is if you run one of the batteries flat, when your relay initially connects it to the other charged battery, you can get huge currents flowing for a short period of time, which is exactly what jump leads or designed for, which is another reason I went down that route.
 
thanks thats a great help i have aquired a bolt in battery tray and have a good second battery its just as mine is a auto gearbox i want to keep second battery in engine bay and keep it charged just in case main battery dies wife moans about all i carry in the boot like tools and bits and bobs just in case i may need them as we go to holland quite abit so getting this out of the way may shut her up :lol and make more space in boot :thumb2 just got to get a good split charge relay now :clap
 
have a look here for how I did mine...

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16725

Just as a point, to use it to jump start from, you will still need jump leads, to connect the two batteries together, as the relay only kicks in when the engine is running, so when stopped they are totally separate.

You might want to look into having something that uses the battery as well, as they do not like being charged continuously with out any discharge, and get lazy if you do. I run my spot lamps from mine, as they draw a good current and make it work a bit.

I am sure you will see the comments about notifying your insurance, I told mine, I had just fitted a split charger and a fixing place under the bonnet for charging the caravan battery, and as I had already notified them about the towbar, they did not care, as it counted as the wiring for that. When I re-new though, I think I will go with one of the specialist I have seen recommended on here, so I can tell them properly, and think about a body lift etc.
 
simple extra battery

50mm cross section welding cable connecting extra battery,with isolator switch to connect battery when charging or when vehicle battery is flat, 8 connections max ! no fuses coz the arn't any on the vechicles starting system! no jump leads required

ssteve
 
50mm cross section welding cable connecting extra battery,with isolator switch to connect battery when charging or when vehicle battery is flat, 8 connections max ! no fuses coz the arn't any on the vechicles starting system! no jump leads required

ssteve

I can't recommend running cables of that size across the engine bay with out fuses, too many chances of things getting crunched and damaged creating nasty dangerous shorts and fires.

Not only that, but using a manual isolator means having to get out, open the bonnet once the car is started, to connect the battery, and then again, once stopped, to disconnect the battery. Who will remember?

If you put the isolator inside the car so you can do it from in the cab, it means running those huge wires even further, and now through the bulk head, which means even more reason to have fuses, as more chances for damage to the cables....

To be honest, this is the sort of job that you either do properly with the right parts, cables, fuses etc, or not at all, as the fire risk from the currents generated by 2 batteries supplying a short circuit are just too risky to mess with.
 
I can't recommend running cables of that size across the engine bay with out fuses, too many chances of things getting crunched and damaged creating nasty dangerous shorts and fires.

Not only that, but using a manual isolator means having to get out, open the bonnet once the car is started, to connect the battery, and then again, once stopped, to disconnect the battery. Who will remember?

If you put the isolator inside the car so you can do it from in the cab, it means running those huge wires even further, and now through the bulk head, which means even more reason to have fuses, as more chances for damage to the cables....

To be honest, this is the sort of job that you either do properly with the right parts, cables, fuses etc, or not at all, as the fire risk from the currents generated by 2 batteries supplying a short circuit are just too risky to mess with.

mabye should of said, this system is fitted to my transit van,std battery is under drivers seat second battery is behind bulkhead behind driver,isolator is is on r/h side of drivers seat/battery box, total cable length approx 1.5 metres cables are properly routed and grommeted, and 2nd battery has quick release terminals, and who will remember to switch it for half an hour a week? me i drive it!

ssteve
 

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