I use nothing but mineral oil in my motors and stationary engines, they need changing more often but lube qualities are much better, I use the glass test and always have, dip your oil and place a drop on a bit of glass then place another bit of glass on top and press till the blob gets to around a 50 pence size, can you see through it? if not oil is bad, Rick
I use Comma Mineral Oil, engine runs a lot quieter too. If I could find a dealer nearby Millers Oils is probably the best brand, typical there’s a dealer near me but I fell out with him after he tried it on fixing and mot on my 3 litre last year.
The quietest engine oil I have encountered was a Fuchs Part Synthetic that I have forgotten the exact name of but it was amazing - it was quite thin being a 10W/40 - this was in our r3mR.
I bought it by post from Opie Oils - they also supplied my ATF at a good price. My days of doing my own oil & filter that started when I was 17 back in 1965 ended in 2016 - not a bad innings really I guess. I must have saved some dosh over the years. lol
With regards to oil, has anyone got a how to for the automatic gearbox oil change? I know it takes 8 litres but would you remove the pan and change the filter? Also once you refill the auto box do you then just select all the gears and recheck the level?
You can take off the return pipe and and add a piece of hose to a bucket.
A two man job this. You then start and run your engine while pouring new ATF down the filler tube.
You need the other person to tell you when it’s turned from brown to ruby red over your bucket then stop the engine.
Re-attach your pipe and finish by checking the level.
You’ve purged your box of the old stuff.
I did this on my Paj. There are videos on this.
For your info...
I have two brand new bottles of Millermatic Gold ATF here if you want them?
Widely regarded as nectar from the gods for a Japanese auto box.
OEM spec.
Davey