battery draining

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brianbrianyi

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
178
hi all i put a new battery on my ford maverick 2.7 gls 1996 in january it kept draining went back to the shop he swoped it this morning it seems as if it is going flat again nothing left switched on in the car what could be draining my battery please regards brian
 
hi brian, i've had similar in the past and it was down to the alternator, draining back, i think it's down to the diodes inside or charging regulator.



tezzer
 
battery drainng

i had the same problem with my old car and it turned out to be a short in the alarm system.if i left it for a couple of days with the alarm on it would drain the battery.this was an aftermarket alarm which was fitted by a proffesional.i too bought a new battery as i thought this was the cause.needless to say i had the alarm removed and got my money back as it wasn't compatable for my motor.
 
In my experience it is usually the diodes in the alternator. I understand that they are there to stop the alternator from becoming a motor when it stops rotating, i.e. draining the battery . I may be wrong but unless you know an alternator repairer or can do it yourself the usual remedy is a new/re-conditioned alternator.

I don't know how you can test this without specialist equipment though.
 
Also if you have twin electric towbar the grey socket will have a fused supply from the battery, the fuse should be near the battery so try removing that fuse. It's possible the split charge relay is duff or you have a slight short with the damp in the grey socket.

Jim T
 
jims-terrano said:
Also if you have twin electric towbar the grey socket will have a fused supply from the battery, the fuse should be near the battery so try removing that fuse. It's possible the split charge relay is duff or you have a slight short with the damp in the grey socket.

Jim T
yes their is 2 fuses bye the battery both 20 amp
 
If the fuses are easy to get to remove the fuses and see what tomorrow morning brings. As people have suggested about the alternator, how does this connect? if it is a plug can this be removed overnight and connected back up again when you want to use it. Might help identify the problem.

Jim
 
jims-terrano said:
If the fuses are easy to get to remove the fuses and see what tomorrow morning brings. As people have suggested about the alternator, how does this connect? if it is a plug can this be removed overnight and connected back up again when you want to use it. Might help identify the problem.

Jim
ile try the fuses first then look at the alternator many thanks brian
 
do you mean the main plug on the alternator jim havent looked yet to see how it is cnnected brian
 
I had that problem on a nissan premier, I took the new battery back and they gave me a new one, as I connected this battery I heard a click and there was a small spark to show something was connected when there should have been nothing on. The problem was in the towing circuit and the click was a relay, so I took out the fuse as previous post suggested. The problem had plagued me for years if I did'nt use the car for 5 days..bri
 
Just a quick check for the alternator do a voltage read with the battery just sitting and then start up the vehicle and see what the voltage with the motor going should be around 13-14 volts.
 
Battery draining

Thanks guys for the information. I too have the problem. Will start with fuse for towing set up then look at the alternator.
 
If that doesn't get you anywhere, you coud do with one of these

6499_1.JPG


They plug into the fuse box and allow you to test if any current is flowing in each circuit, 1 by 1. The standard fuse is placed in the side of the device so that the circuit remains protected.
 
Its all one unit - one bit plugs into the fuse box the other bit (connected by lead) has the digital display. They read up to 48v (cars are going 36 and 48v in the next few years) and up to 40amp and are available for either standard blade fuses or mini blade fuses.
 
hummingbird said:
Its all one unit - one bit plugs into the fuse box the other bit (connected by lead) has the digital display. They read up to 48v (cars are going 36 and 48v in the next few years) and up to 40amp and are available for either standard blade fuses or mini blade fuses.


hi hummy, why do you think they are going up in voltage then ??

Zippy
 
higher voltage works better for them on a few fronts.

Computer stuff etc - its easier to step down than to step up.

Main reason I think is the new bus style lighting etc. They run a ring main type supply around the car and then have microprocessors at the lights and other bits that just need a control signal, bit like a relay only computer controlled with just a common signal wire. This means the "ring main" has to carry a lot of power, higher voltage means less current for the same power, which means they can use thinner wire, which is lighter (and cheaper of course), same goes for starters and alternators too, they will be smaller.
 
oooh thats so clever..

jsut makes wiring up a trailers lights harder to do at home too im sure
 

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