ball joint splitters.

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exosteve

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Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
2,740
I have come to the conclusion if I want to carry on off roading.things are going to break regularly.
I need to start getting more hands on and tackling these jobs myself:eek:
So I need to replace the ball joints and want to make it as easy as I can for myself.
Can any one give me a link to the best type of ball joint splitter for my truck?

Had a look on eBay but there's too many to choose from.
And I want one that will last a lifetime
 
I have come to the conclusion if I want to carry on off roading.things are going to break regularly.
I need to start getting more hands on and tackling these jobs myself:eek:
So I need to replace the ball joints and want to make it as easy as I can for myself.
Can any one give me a link to the best type of ball joint splitter for my truck?

Had a look on eBay but there's too many to choose from.
And I want one that will last a lifetime

just undo the bolts and the put the big one back on a few threads and hit it with a big hammer, they just pop out, i've done ball joints so often i can do both sides in an hr now :lol

i did used to use the tuning fork style ones which i found worked best for me
 
This is a big job for me...
I tend to be put off doing jobs like this in case things don't want play ball.
And then I'm walking a few miles to get any bits I need.

I want to do it myself and need be prepared.

I dunno if a dare tackle the top arm bushes myself.they need pressing in I think?
 
I have come to the conclusion if I want to carry on off roading.things are going to break regularly.
I need to start getting more hands on and tackling these jobs myself:eek:
So I need to replace the ball joints and want to make it as easy as I can for myself.
Can any one give me a link to the best type of ball joint splitter for my truck?

Had a look on eBay but there's too many to choose from.
And I want one that will last a lifetime

Ive got one of these and also a heavier duty version cant find that link but this one is fine for terrano
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYKES-PIC...618?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item256807c512
 
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lube and a rubber mallet and plenty of swearing :thumbs

ball joints are daunting at first just take your time, you will need some big spanners cant remember size off top of my head, but once you done first side the other side will seem easy :thumb2
 
One good size hammer and one good size wallop=one ball joint off :D
Hit it man :sly
Top bushes are straight forward if you have the right size ring spanner and socket. The pressing bit was easy though ;)
If you find them stubborn just use your car jack to help them in :thumbs
 
You will not go far wrong with one of these, it makes the job so much easier, I in the past always used makitfits method but failing eyes and tired arms made it less reliable and you only have to strike in the wrong place a couple of times and do damage, makes this jobbie worth while, do not use the tuning fork wedge type if you want to save the joint as most times will damage the rubber boot, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-by-Bergen-Ball-Joint-Splitter-Separator-30-50mm-B6018-/141309349144 Rick
 
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I've got a sykes pikavant fork one.
Must be 20 years old and has never let me down.
Cheap ones open up on the jaws and are a waste of time and money.
 
I've got a sykes pikavant fork one.
Must be 20 years old and has never let me down.
Cheap ones open up on the jaws and are a waste of time and money.

The one I have is a Sykes Pickavant, the fork is fine but very soon after buying it the fulcrum broke in two so as I needed it there and then gas cut another out of half inch boiler plate, it is rough and ready but works perfectly even on the most obstinate joints, Rick
 
...And I want one that will last a lifetime
A friend of mine bought one with a lifetime guarantee...

The first time he used it...
it broke and slashed his wrist...:lol:lol:lol


I have the fork type with bolt, similar to Ricks, sometimes your put loads of pressure on it... then a light tap with a small hammer...." C R A C K " all comes apart:thumb2
 
Brute force !

I used to use the screw fulcrum type but in the end my trusted tapered fork worked just fine.
Its better than hitting the nut but its not so good if you are not changing the joint as it often damages the rubber seals.

When I was younger I always did my own suspension work but as I have gotten older and have more disposable income I have used a local mechanic. My knuckles do not heal as quickly as they used too and my hammer aim has lost its accuracy. LOL

I retire again at the end of this month so I might just have to go back to DIY to save the money for heating bills !!
 
A friend of mine bought one with a lifetime guarantee...

The first time he used it...
it broke and slashed his wrist...:lol:lol:lol

So who's lifetime is the g/tee for ? Man or tool !
 
...I retire again at the end of this month so I might just have to go back to DIY to save the money for heating bills !!

I'll agree with that one...
Last week I changed the front Brake pads on the Picasso, I fitted Mintex...cost was only £18, and I needed to remove the wheels anyway as it was time to rotate them.:thumb2
Some jobs are not too bad.
 
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I tried to do my ball joints with the heavy duty one of those and it broke before the joint popped . it was the big black cast ones . so I got the tuning fork type now

Ive done hunderds with mine was it sykes pickavant or a cheap one.Those tuning forks just ruin the rubbers pointless for me as i have to sell the parts once removed
 
I use the wack with a hammer method mostly.But have also used the fork splitter.As mentioned care is needed with this, due to damage to the rubber boots, but they are cheap to replace or easy enough to make.I have tried the fulcrum types of ball joint spltters.But i ended up binning them...
 
I have a found long lever and club hammer do the job well.
Apply down force with the lever close to the joint then hit the end of rod 90 degrees to the taper, this shocks the taper and the joint pops out, leave the nut on a tread or two to save the knuckles on the lever hand
 

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