Another Tale of Terrano Starting Woes
- Thread starter nimbinbid
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Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:
Valve maybe no good
Here's a view looking inside components.
Tried cleaning inside of cap nut (the thing on the right side of last photo) with air gun. Some crud remains, perhaps a soak in injector cleaner might help. The bolt has what appears to be a spacer from the last valve except this one shows no sign of wanting to move. Something can be heard sliding back and forth inside bolt.
Put bolt back in IP, leaving smallest orifice exposed. Pumped primer. Fuel exited around bolt thread but none from orifice. Can recheck with helper tomorrow in case my view wasn't all it could have been.
Not looking good so far. Any quick fixes available for these units? Roy
Here's a view looking inside components.
Tried cleaning inside of cap nut (the thing on the right side of last photo) with air gun. Some crud remains, perhaps a soak in injector cleaner might help. The bolt has what appears to be a spacer from the last valve except this one shows no sign of wanting to move. Something can be heard sliding back and forth inside bolt.
Put bolt back in IP, leaving smallest orifice exposed. Pumped primer. Fuel exited around bolt thread but none from orifice. Can recheck with helper tomorrow in case my view wasn't all it could have been.
Not looking good so far. Any quick fixes available for these units? Roy
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Mmmmm not seen one like that before, but I would suggest that the shorter part is screwed into the pump with a copper washer then the banjo with washer each side then the cap nut, if you operate the primer pump before the banjo is fitted you should see fuel jet from the orifice, thus proving this is the correct way to fit it, Rick
Valve checks out fine. Pump primer and fuel comes out. Due to reach limitations, I couldn't observe while pumping at max power.
Satisfied with quantity of fuel emerging from orifice. I then removed the bolt, thinking I'd compare bolt against spanner size, as my fancy ratcheting ring spanner wouldn't grip. Naturally, the first copper washer slid off said bolt into the motor's twilight regions and I've been searching for it ever since.
Hmmm, not too many mozzie bites and no leeches, could have been worse I guess.
Carry on tomorrow. Roy
Satisfied with quantity of fuel emerging from orifice. I then removed the bolt, thinking I'd compare bolt against spanner size, as my fancy ratcheting ring spanner wouldn't grip. Naturally, the first copper washer slid off said bolt into the motor's twilight regions and I've been searching for it ever since.
Hmmm, not too many mozzie bites and no leeches, could have been worse I guess.
Carry on tomorrow. Roy
Okay, back to where I started.
Started truck and she idled rough enough that I had to use the throttle to keep her running. MIL light stayed on the whole time she was running. Checked for a fault code when I noticed MIL light flashing before the paper clip had been removed. Strange. Code 55 = no fault. Not much use though.
Had to find the same washer 3 times in the end, kind of an ersatz Easter experience. At least there was was a nice bit of sun today. Roy
Started truck and she idled rough enough that I had to use the throttle to keep her running. MIL light stayed on the whole time she was running. Checked for a fault code when I noticed MIL light flashing before the paper clip had been removed. Strange. Code 55 = no fault. Not much use though.
Had to find the same washer 3 times in the end, kind of an ersatz Easter experience. At least there was was a nice bit of sun today. Roy
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I have found in the past that there are 2 kinds of fault code methods, 1 is bridge terminals and remove to clear codes the other is bridge and remove to read and bridge again to clear, Rick
It was just an observation. Leaving the paper clip inserted made the MIL flash, thought it was strange since I haven't come across any mention of this.
Decided to try running the motor straight from a container of diesel, just waiting on fuel line. Meaning this project will have to go on hold till then. Don't want to open the fuel tank if I don't have too. I'm totally unprepared to deal with shorn bolts. Roy
Decided to try running the motor straight from a container of diesel, just waiting on fuel line. Meaning this project will have to go on hold till then. Don't want to open the fuel tank if I don't have too. I'm totally unprepared to deal with shorn bolts. Roy
Hi there, hoping someone is still following this thread.
Finally got some fuel hose and started the truck from a jerry can. Had to work the throttle a bit before she settled down to a reasonable idle. Still smoking, though possibly not as bad as before.
Stopped and started the truck a few times during this time. The first time I switched off the ignition I noticed something like a clicking sound coming from the engine bay immediately afterwards. Subsequent on off cycles failed to replicate this sound. My imagination suggests a faulty metering injector, but there's no fault code.
Helpful suggestions appreciated. Roy
Finally got some fuel hose and started the truck from a jerry can. Had to work the throttle a bit before she settled down to a reasonable idle. Still smoking, though possibly not as bad as before.
Stopped and started the truck a few times during this time. The first time I switched off the ignition I noticed something like a clicking sound coming from the engine bay immediately afterwards. Subsequent on off cycles failed to replicate this sound. My imagination suggests a faulty metering injector, but there's no fault code.
Helpful suggestions appreciated. Roy
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Hi Roy yes I am still about, sounds like you need to remove the pick up from the tank and clean out the lines or better still replace them, be interested to see pics of the swirl pot in the tank when you get it out, do not worry about shearing the bolts just put it back with self tappers, Rick
Thanks Rick. I'll get onto the tank next then. Pic to follow. Any suggestion about what best to seal the pick up unit to the tank? Our local motor factors are still recovering from the floods so I'll have to find something online. Roy
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The tank pic up is fitted with a rubber O ring if this in good order and the groove where it sits is rust free then all is good, if not then RTV silicon sealant is the way forward
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The way I understand it is with the remote fuel supply the motor runs fine but with the car fuel system it does not so between the tank and the filter there is a problem. Rick
All I could find
Previously, when running on the regular fuel system, the motor really struggled to idle and the MIL light would flash. Nowhere near as dramatic running IP from jerry can. No MIL light and it did eventually settle into an idle.
Once idling I removed the radiator cap looking for evidence of a blown head gasket. As I understand it , the thermostat needs to be open for air pressure to move from the block to the radiator. Had to stop then to get helper home before dark.
Ok Rick, I got a pic of some substance from inside the tank itself, straight below the pick up entry. Camera software playing up so lousy details. For all I know, it's just the 1/4 inch remains of black beetle and not at all related. Still have half a tank of diesel left and other than the previous find, it all looks good in there. Even drew off half a liter to let stand in a tall glass bottle. Unless water/diesel separation is best left for over night, that's looking good too.
Blew out the lines and then packed up. Severe thunderstorm missed us, but they're predicting rain until the 14th. Surely there'll be an opportunity to take this further before then.
Still don't feel any closer to solving this, but I'm done for now. Thanks again, Roy
Previously, when running on the regular fuel system, the motor really struggled to idle and the MIL light would flash. Nowhere near as dramatic running IP from jerry can. No MIL light and it did eventually settle into an idle.
Once idling I removed the radiator cap looking for evidence of a blown head gasket. As I understand it , the thermostat needs to be open for air pressure to move from the block to the radiator. Had to stop then to get helper home before dark.
Ok Rick, I got a pic of some substance from inside the tank itself, straight below the pick up entry. Camera software playing up so lousy details. For all I know, it's just the 1/4 inch remains of black beetle and not at all related. Still have half a tank of diesel left and other than the previous find, it all looks good in there. Even drew off half a liter to let stand in a tall glass bottle. Unless water/diesel separation is best left for over night, that's looking good too.
Blew out the lines and then packed up. Severe thunderstorm missed us, but they're predicting rain until the 14th. Surely there'll be an opportunity to take this further before then.
Still don't feel any closer to solving this, but I'm done for now. Thanks again, Roy
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If that is all there is of the black stuff then it is not an issue, if your lines are clear then the only think left is the fuel, is it known to be good or did you get it from a dubious place, Rick
Fuel came from village servo, the only one in our area still in operation at the time. Although the service station (servo) also went under water, I was led to believe their tanks had been made flood proof after the 2017 floods. Haven't heard of any other locals experiencing fuel issues and the mower petrol worked fine.
Is there any way to test my fuel, or would you advise dumping the lot and starting over with a fresh load? The fuel I used to run remotely was also local and that still caused smoke, so yeah, could be the fuel. I'll ask around, there's got to be a garage within 100ks that didn't go under water. Roy
Is there any way to test my fuel, or would you advise dumping the lot and starting over with a fresh load? The fuel I used to run remotely was also local and that still caused smoke, so yeah, could be the fuel. I'll ask around, there's got to be a garage within 100ks that didn't go under water. Roy
Finally dry enough to work outside. Blew out return line from ip to tank, added fuel injection cleaner to jerry can mix and started her up. Settled down to a normal idle, but would smoke and splutter at all attempts to rev engine even when warm. No engine warning lights at any time.
Have noticed the buzzing/clicking noise from the engine bay, lasting 2 or 3 seconds after shut off, is now a regular feature. Could this be a solenoid running on? Once my driveway dries out I'll go for a run and see if pushing more injector cleaner through helps any. Open to suggestions. Roy
Have noticed the buzzing/clicking noise from the engine bay, lasting 2 or 3 seconds after shut off, is now a regular feature. Could this be a solenoid running on? Once my driveway dries out I'll go for a run and see if pushing more injector cleaner through helps any. Open to suggestions. Roy
