Another Tale of Terrano Starting Woes

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No nothing you have done will have made any difference to the injector test, the fact they still had fuel in them is good, you still need to remove the pressure regulator valve at the front of the pump, it has a round head with two flats on it, 10mm open end spanner fits but you may not get it out with one if it is at the wrong angle, but without checking the piston in this valve is perfectly free you cannot go further, Rick
 
This is what you are looking for, the spring ring goes in last to stop the piston falling out, to remove it you will need to make a small hook from something like welding wire, Rick
 

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First week as a pensioner and dementia seems to have struck already. Can't for the life of me locate this valve. Does the manifold need to be removed to access it? Which is the front of the pump? Had imagined it was the part that faced the front of the car, which appears to be wrong.

Replaced splitting scavenge pipes and rear bushes instead, then got on with some gardening for my sanity. Roy
 
It is right at the front of the pump next to the flange that bolts the pump to the timing cover, from drivers position it is to the right of the fuel inlet pipe, Rick
 
Does the pressure regulator valve live here

Removed battery and power steering pump.

Found it at last? Hidden under inlet fuel line. Removed 10mm bolt with rounded head and 2 flat sides from position in photo.
 

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This is all I found

Injector pump was replaced about 7 years ago.

All that came from opening is shown in photo. Have syringed fuel out but cannot see any sign of spring or piston. Have also fished around with hook with same result. Could this be a modified valve? Have provided close-up. Or am I looking in the wrong place.

I'm sure nothing got lost while I removed bolt. Roy
 

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If you look into the top hole in your pic you can see the spring, now turn it upside down and push a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom it will contact a piston about 6mm in, gently push this piston which should move freely against the spring pressure and return again with no stickiness at all, any problems here and it will not run correctly, also although you have removed the return banjo I see no comment as to the orifice drilled into the side of the banjo bolt, it is very small and has to be completely clear, the valve in your pic and this orifice work together to stabilise the internal pump pressure, Rick
 
Looking at your picture again the spring ring is protruding from the bottom making it easy for you to remove, however that is not its correct position, it should be pressed in flush, in the position it is in it will badly effect the pump pressure, but before you push it in I suggest you strip the 3 components out and check the piston and bore for scratches with a magnifying glass if any are found it will not be serviceable, this is what you should see, Rick
 

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Thanks Rick, that's cleared things up for me.

Valve is back in car overnight. Will give it a go tomorrow. Just like to add that the spring ring appears to be in there quite solidly, no movement noticed. Why is there a hook cut into bottom of ring? Any special technique for removal if ring proves stubborn?

Orifices in pump body clear. Noticed something metallic in bolt hole, assumed it was a ball bearing but must have been the spring. Appeared clean, though couldn't find magnifying glass at the time.

What's the verdict if this part proves to be defective? Your time is much appreciated. Roy
 
If you pushed the piston against the spring and it moved freely with no sticking then it is probably OK but if it sticks at all then a replacement is the only option, the spring ring is split and the split is staggered so it keeps its shape when being pushed in, a pair of thin nosed pliers will pull it out, do not put the piston in without the spring, it will go in further than its normal working area and will get stuck and be very difficult to get out again, Rick
 
Thanks for that information.

Today was a wipe out. Rained all day so I thought it best to leave the pump sealed. Tomorrow I've organized a ride into town to stock up on supplies. After that it's up to the weather as the car is sitting in my drive.

If this unit proves defective how easy might it be find a replacement? None on aussie eBay. Roy
 
I have the one in my picture, it came out of a fly by wire 2.7 and is no good to me as I have a Patrol and although they look the same the orifices and spring pressure are different, Rick
 
First up, it's a Bosch MAF. Does that mean IP and injectors are also Bosch?

Poked screwdriver in hole, piston moved freely but didn't attempt to fully compress spring. Removed the spring retaining clip with long nose pliers. Considering the force involved, it doesn't seem likely to have moved on its own, all of a sudden. Spring and spacer fell out easily. Inspected bore with illuminated magnify glass. No scoring that I can see. Inspected spacer and spring. Spacer fine, spring is a bit shiny right at top where it's flattened. Still, couldn't see any scoring though.

O-rings seem fine. Is it worth replacing them as a matter of course? Don't suppose there's a convenient kit available? Assuming it's good to go, what's the best way to get that retaining ring back in place and flush? Don't want to deform it. Must be a right pain to pull out with a hook and not scratch the bore.

Looks like the water p is beginning to weep. Think I'd like to be sure she's still a runner before I get on to that. Roy
 
Yes it will be a Bosch pump, sounds like your valve is just fine, just reassemble it the spring ring pushes in easy with a pair of grips, a G cramp or a small vice, just make sure it is flush, now you need to check the return orifice is clear, it is around 0.03mm in diameter, Rick
 
Return orifice? Where might that beauty be located?

0.03mm, will I even be able to see it? Roy
 
Ok, think I've worked out what to do. Will a stream of fuel emerge if I just turn the motor over or does it have to be running?

Guess I'll see. Roy
 
You should see a fine stream of fuel by just operating the primmer button on the fuel filter, Rick
 
Only managed to assemble valve, reinsert and tighten today. Weather predicted to improve over the weekend, hope to make more progress.

If return valve is good is there anything else in that area to test? If not, I'm keen to reassemble everything and try running the truck again on the off chance that the offending issue has been rectified. Roy
 
If the return valve orifice is good then as you say give it a run you may just have inadvertently solved the problem, Rick
 

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