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Monaro Pete

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Messages
995
I've spent all day under the Terrano with spray gun in hand. I removed the wheel arch covers, did all around them & all inside the front wings too.

The underneath is totally plastered in underseal :thumb2

I'm cream crackered :( Though it'll be worth it as she'll last a few extra years :D :D
 
Great stuff. Did you get the sense of satisfaction when you looked at it all clean and lovely? :thumb2
 
Yes mate I did. My mate lent me his spray gun & when he came down to collect it, he had a shuftie underneath & complimented my work (which was nice).
 
Quality. What prep work did you do. I'm needing to start mine but so many people do it so many ways with so many different paints and potions :nenau
 
Same ere, I need to get the underneath steam cleaned or sumnat first and I have no idea where to get it done :(
 
I've a pressure washer and a pair of ramps but I don't have a wet suit so I'll have to break out the budgie smugglers. Might be a bit uncomfortable though, on a shingle drive! :confused:
 
OK so this is my experience, if there is any rust it has to be cleaned of to bare metal and I mean clean bare metal, not easy to do, rotary wire brush goes some way towards it but not perfect, sand blasting to bright white is best but again loads of effort, underseal over rust just lets it fester unseen and when you do discover it, it may be too late, I favor oily treatments that soak in to the rust cavities like waxoil or similar but the down side is they need regular re application, Rick
 
I've a pressure washer and a pair of ramps but I don't have a wet suit so I'll have to break out the budgie smugglers. Might be a bit uncomfortable though, on a shingle drive! :confused:

You love it, I bet you sleep on a bed of nails :lol
 
OK so this is my experience, if there is any rust it has to be cleaned of to bare metal and I mean clean bare metal, not easy to do, rotary wire brush goes some way towards it but not perfect, sand blasting to bright white is best but again loads of effort, underseal over rust just lets it fester unseen and when you do discover it, it may be too late, I favor oily treatments that soak in to the rust cavities like waxoil or similar but the down side is they need regular re application, Rick

Something I didn't think about, I suppose a top up every so often is no big deal, would a coat of waxoyl last through winter?, where are you rustic :lol
 
Something I didn't think about, I suppose a top up every so often is no big deal, would a coat of waxoyl last through winter?, where are you rustic :lol

"You rang..."
I totally agree with solarman, waxoyl is great, but in high was areas, like wheel arches and front suspension, it does need reapplication. A good time is late summer.
I have a few jam jars of it ready to use, so if a wheel has to come off, then a quick wire brush to loosen any loose stuff, and reapply.
When we had the Austin Ambassador, it had steel wheels, so a quick light application on those, got them through the winter no problem, then in the spring, a quick wipe with white spirit and a wax, and they looked like new, we had that car 13+ years before we sold it on, and people were queuing up and payed more than we were asking lol.
Rustic:thumb2
 
OK so this is my experience, if there is any rust it has to be cleaned of to bare metal and I mean clean bare metal, not easy to do, rotary wire brush goes some way towards it but not perfect, sand blasting to bright white is best but again loads of effort, underseal over rust just lets it fester unseen and when you do discover it, it may be too late, I favor oily treatments that soak in to the rust cavities like waxoil or similar but the down side is they need regular re application, Rick

When I said underseal, I should say it's a treatment that they all rave about on the classic car forums, it's called Dynax S-50. It looks like old diesel engine oil & smells similar to waxoyl when sprayed.
It seeps into the cracks etc. It's supposed to slow down any rust that's already there & all know that when that's there you never really get shut of it.
It's also self healing so stone chips & the like real seal.

As long as she last me a three to four years I'll be happy.
 
I may consider both, dynax then waxoyl-ing, I will have this truck forever, one day in the distant future I will probably have to take body off chassis to sort it but the longer I can prolong that the better. It's not too bad really and I wanna keep it that way for as long as possible. Where did you get your dynax from Pete?

Thanks rustic, I really value the voice of experience, any other tips are always welomed and appreciated :thumb2
 
Think you can get it cheaper by going direct to Bilt Hamber in Germany, Rick
 
Dinitrolled my y61 a year ago after a long weekend of prep, scraped the loose stuff off then treated all the rusty bits and coated. Just been mot ed and it is still sound.
Did the y60 a couple of weeks ago but only a couple of very minor areas to prep it is still a horrible job to do but well worth doing. Filled all cavities aswell.
 
Where did you get your dynax from Pete?

Monkfish Performance. They do parts for my Monaro. They were the cheapest I could find. Opie were a little more expensive by a few pounds. I already have an account with Monkfish so it was a no Brianer.

Rick. It's made in this country :thumb2
 
Monkfish Performance. They do parts for my Monaro. They were the cheapest I could find. Opie were a little more expensive by a few pounds. I already have an account with Monkfish so it was a no Brianer.

Rick. It's made in this country :thumb2

I'll use them just for their name :D
 

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