Adjustable Panhard Rod

[R1cho]

well i put the adjustable panhard rod on today pics so its true

before

after

old and new(ish)

in place

 

[96terrano]

whats it even for?:nenau

 

[Kamsin]

whats it even for?:nenau

Its to make sure the axel is equidistant to the body of the vehicle i think.

In other words, it dont stick out one side more than the other. :lol

 

[R1cho]

Its to make sure the axel is equidistant to the body of the vehicle i think.

In other words, it dont stick out one side more than the other. :lol

yep and with the 33's on for some reason it was so i made the adjustable one and now it dont :lol

 

[Dynamics]

Cool. How much did you elongate it by then ?

 

[R1cho]

not even an inch :lol

 

[makeitfit]

whats it even for?:nenau

Stops your axle disappearing off sideways

 

[Dynamics]

not even an inch :lol

It's at an angle so about 20mm...

 

[rustic]

It's at an angle so about 20mm...

You can use Pythagoras to calculate the extension required.

The pan-hard rod would be the hypotenuse, so you would need the horizontal distance and the vertical height of the fixing points of the pan-hard rod.

You would also need the original fixing points before the lift as a reference.

Without the pan-hard rod your axle would slip out sideways

In fact during compression of your rear suspension, the rear wheels wouldn't actually go up vertically compared to the body, more in a curve, with a radius proportional to the length of your pan-hard rod.

So there you go.:thumbs

Rustic:thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

It's at an angle so about 20mm...

Ah but ideally it should be horizontal when the truck is unladen

 

[R1cho]

the tyre dont stick out on one side more than the other now, thats all i care about :lol

 

[rustic]

Ah but ideally it should be horizontal when the truck is unladen

Good point.:thumb2
I'll go along with that, this will reduce the sideways movement as it rises or drops.

 

[makeitfit]

the tyre dont stick out on one side more than the other now, thats all i care about :lol

Absolutely mate , exactly what I'd do :thumb2 Just an ideal I was pointing out

 

[stinka]

Best way would be to cut the mount off chassis and weld in a 2" section of box to drop it

 

[R1cho]

Best way would be to cut the mount off chassis and weld in a 2" section of box to drop it

why hack into the chassis when an adjustable rod works?

 

[stinka]

Keeps the geometry factory spec, and I'd trust heavy welds on chassis better than welds on the bar

What amp is your mig btw ?

 

[R1cho]

Keeps the geometry factory spec, and I'd trust heavy welds on chassis better than welds on the bar

What amp is your mig btw ?

i'd much rather use the bar, if that breaks its easier to fix in situ that the chassis is

 

[stinka]

It's just my opinion, but I'd trust Heavy welds over a larger area on the chassis with my 180amp arc over them little welds on the bar with your 100amp mig

If it does break, say on a bend under the increased loading of corner forces then god forbid

 

[R1cho]

It's just my opinion, but I'd trust Heavy welds over a larger area on the chassis with my 180amp arc over them little welds on the bar with your 100amp mig

If it does break, say on a bend under the increased loading of corner forces then god forbid

my mig is 150amp and them welds aint small

 

[makeitfit]

now now girls my one's bigger than yours so there :lol
Adjustable PHR perfectly acceptable solution as done by many offroad specialists on t web. Theoretically extended chassis mount is the perfect solution but hey this is 2 tonne oil burner not a slick touring car :thumbs
Just tell your insurance co though eh