this light stays on more than off. brakes work fine. but some times when /brakeing the peddle goes on off like many times when brakeing split secon odd.anyway will it fail mot if this light is on?how hard is it too take bulb out or fuse? many thanks
abs light
- Thread starter hunter666
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Hi fellow Norfolk dweller...
most MOT testers expect to see the light come on when ignition is switched on then go out a while later,... as it should do! Some will fail it if it does not do this.
Your only options are to locate the fault (probably a broken wire on a wheel sensor) or JUST for the MOT wire the light to the engine check light THEN look for the fault...
Treat the wheel sensors with care as they are expensive and in the case of a fractured/broken wire are often repairable. With patience and a good soldering iron, some heatshrink sleeving etc...
lacroupade
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If the warning light is on when it shouldn't be its an instant MoT failure.
If the rewiring doesn't work then a new sensor is over £100.
I'll get back to you when I find any good news :thumb2
If the rewiring doesn't work then a new sensor is over £100.
I'll get back to you when I find any good news :thumb2
jims-terrano
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As said a defo MOT fail.
All is not lost, for some reason it seems to be 90% of the time the Front Nearside that causes the problem. The cable usually breaks around the little clamp/bracket that holds the cable to the suspension arm, if your lucky you will be able to fix the cable there. You'll need a hell of a soldering iron when it's as cold as it is though. Mine had been fixed before but not sealed well enough so water got in and rotted out all the copper. I managed to carefully cut some of the elbow part of the sensor case and find clean copper and was able to solder new cable and replaced right through to the plug in the engine bay.
Last time I checked about 18 months ago it was nearly £300 for a new sensor and the old sensor wont come out in one piece.
Remember it's safety of your car, your family and other road users.
Jim
All is not lost, for some reason it seems to be 90% of the time the Front Nearside that causes the problem. The cable usually breaks around the little clamp/bracket that holds the cable to the suspension arm, if your lucky you will be able to fix the cable there. You'll need a hell of a soldering iron when it's as cold as it is though. Mine had been fixed before but not sealed well enough so water got in and rotted out all the copper. I managed to carefully cut some of the elbow part of the sensor case and find clean copper and was able to solder new cable and replaced right through to the plug in the engine bay.
Last time I checked about 18 months ago it was nearly £300 for a new sensor and the old sensor wont come out in one piece.
Remember it's safety of your car, your family and other road users.
Jim
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