4wd

[Darwin]

Tried to go 4H while doing 15mph in 2H , I cant do it , stick just wont move , but goes ok when stopped.

 

[lacroupade]

Tried to go 4H while doing 15mph in 2H , I cant do it , stick just wont move , but goes ok when stopped.

Just to be clear, you're talking about moving it back one notch from the forward 2WD position yeah? If so, you should be able to do that easily with a firm pull at that speed.

I reckon that diets just turned you into a 15 stone weakling.....

 

[Darwin]

Just to be clear, you're talking about moving it back one notch from the forward 2WD position yeah? If so, you should be able to do that easily with a firm pull at that speed.

I reckon that diets just turned you into a 15 stone weakling.....

I pulled like I was pulling Zippy of my mamma (i pulled quite hard):lol

 

[lacroupade]

I pulled like I was pulling Zippy of my mamma (i pulled quite hard):lol

Well we know you do a lot of yanking thats for sure :lol:lol:lol

But if you are defo starting from the very furthest forward point in 2WD thats a puzzle, shouldn't be like that.

It should just be, for 4WDH, just pull back (about 3-4 inches) at rest or up to about 20mph, then green dash light comes on and you are in 4WDH. To go back to 2WD, push lever right forward again, engage reverse and drive back 3-5 metres in a straight line....green light will extinguish then or upon driving forward again.

For 4WDL, stop and go into neutral, press the lever down (while its in 4WDH position) and pull back again. Gear ratios halve roughly so you'll know immediately its happened.

Same procedure as above to get back to 2WD except (i) gotta be in neutral, and (ii) you are pushing it forward TWO steps of course not just ONE.

 

[extreme-4x4]

id say if not broken dont fix but if you find
the springs or brake clips fail in the hubs
then parts are as much as new manuals so
worht changing for peace of mind.

mnay have changed them, jim-t, zippy656
i think but my t2's were fine til sold it used
and abused.

on the troll i can lock them with a wheel brace!
or leave auto to sort itself.

or you could just turn the guts of the autos so they lock in and throw the rings and springs away . always locked in then ...... and no cost ...

who need manual hubs

 

[terranolady]

Hmmmmm...some intresting comments......so far when i've used my 4wd i've put it in gear whilst stationary on the drive. To get it out of 4wd i move the g stick and reverse for about a yard..just to put green light out. Tried going forward but light didnt go out ( mind you only moved about a yard !)
It was a life saver today although i did skid on a roundabout, car came from nowhere so slammed foot on brake and the whole car drifted....just a reaction- driver error i admit. My puppy got his food and husband got his Motorcycle news !

 

[lacroupade]

Hmmmmm...some intresting comments......so far when i've used my 4wd i've put it in gear whilst stationary on the drive. To get it out of 4wd i move the g stick and reverse for about a yard..just to put green light out. Tried going forward but light didnt go out ( mind you only moved about a yard !)
It was a life saver today although i did skid on a roundabout, car came from nowhere so slammed foot on brake and the whole car drifted....just a reaction- driver error i admit. My puppy got his food and husband got his Motorcycle news !

You've got a g-stick? Ooo-err! :lol:lol

You're right, a yard isn't usually enough; 2-3 is more like it.

If you've got a sun visor sticker it tells you on there what maximum speed you can engage 4WD on the fly.....

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

missed a bit here, but to be fair those latter t2s were 3 litres think about it
but we didnt have that many members with them when discussed, think
davemuds, and a guy, sorry name escapes with a commercial think from
m4 corridor.

2.7 v 3.0 what is relevance please were talking about the hubs and how the
transfer works this is common regardless of motor.

knocking the tranfer lever into 4 hi disconnects 4wd physically ie the front
prop from the box/rear whether light is on or not. i know this cos on the troll
the light is always on even in 2hi, and have tested by jacking various wheel
combos up and moving lever to basically pull car gently of the jack.

afterall its only modern trucks that have the tell tale in a series landy you
would know by the position of the levers, yep red and yellow knobs!! etc.

 

[BigBlack]

I agree with TTT2, aint all the 4wd system etc on the 3ltr and 2.7 the same?

I've got a 2005 2.7tdi. Driving normally can switch between 2wd and 4wd and back again (so long as slower then 25mph)
No reversing needed or stopping (handy when going from main road to side road)
Generally the 'little green light' stays on till I depress the clutch to change gear then just goes out... it deffo goes back into 2wd too....

i.e. drive up snow covered cul-de-sack in 4wd, slip it into 2wd turn wheel slightly and floor it.... car dounuts itself round 180 degrees... back into 4wd to go back down road!!!! :clap:clap:clap
Proper amusing to watch peoples reactions!!!! :lol

 

[lacroupade]

I agree with TTT2, aint all the 4wd system etc on the 3ltr and 2.7 the same?

I've got a 2005 2.7tdi. Driving normally can switch between 2wd and 4wd and back again (so long as slower then 25mph)
No reversing needed or stopping (handy when going from main road to side road)
Generally the 'little green light' stays on till I depress the clutch to change gear then just goes out... it deffo goes back into 2wd too....

i.e. drive up snow covered cul-de-sack in 4wd, slip it into 2wd turn wheel slightly and floor it.... car dounuts itself round 180 degrees... back into 4wd to go back down road!!!! :clap:clap:clap
Proper amusing to watch peoples reactions!!!! :lol

No they aren't we now know for certain. You've got the (cheaper) fixed hubs that it seems were only fitted to the very late vehicles - at the moment that seems to be just the 3.0 as we still havent found anyone with them on a late 2.7 (after 2002/3). That means (I think) that your drive shafts and CV joints are rotating all the time but are only accepting drive when the diff is engaged by selecting 4WD.

The auto hub system on the 2.7 is different and means that nothing whatsoever is engaged til 4wd is selected, but it also means you have to stop and reverse to disengage it again (unlike yours where you just disengage the diff).

They are different systems with their own pros and cons and I think its accepted that the auto hub system on the 2.7 is more expensive and causes less wear and better fuel economy. It was a cost saving thing with the 3.0 which could afford to lose a bit of fuel consumption.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

what i'm trying get over if you dont have to positively reverse to release at end of 4wd
session. as others state the hubs will release eventually. and frankly followed many on
laning trips religiously reverse at end of lanes for fear of damage when none would occur
as would likely be back in 4 shortly AND the transfer box had released the front prop
meaning at worst front end would spin like a fixed hub model til then anyway. the light
might stay on but you tell by lever if its in or not and by how truck handles.

further we discuss many moons back that a free wheeled front end could benefit from
lubrication from time to time on road b driving few feet in 4hi, knocking back to 2hi and
leave front hubs locked to get front end oil moved round without fear of wind up damage
in dry weather. again at end of such a session the reverse movement would release it
back to normal.

 

[lacroupade]

what i'm trying get over if you dont have to positively reverse to release at end of 4wd
session. as others state the hubs will release eventually. and frankly followed many on
laning trips religiously reverse at end of lanes for fear of damage when none would occur
as would likely be back in 4 shortly AND the transfer box had released the front prop
meaning at worst front end would spin like a fixed hub model til then anyway. the light
might stay on but you tell by lever if its in or not and by how truck handles.

further we discuss many moons back that a free wheeled front end could benefit from
lubrication from time to time on road b driving few feet in 4hi, knocking back to 2hi and
leave front hubs locked to get front end oil moved round without fear of wind up damage
in dry weather. again at end of such a session the reverse movement would release it
back to normal.

No I violently agree with that - I've always just been paranoid about the fact that the CV joints and driveshafts will still be rotating until the hubs unlock, but maybe I'm just a bit anal....( well variety is the spice of life isn't it?:lol:lol). Your comment about getting them lubed in that fashion seems to have some merit I must say...(anal? lubrication? not sure where this is going!!!)

Might open a new thread with a problem, as I'm getting some mild transmission vibration in 4WDH between about 40 and 55, but all gone by 60, and no wheel balance problems in 2WD....just want to check if it does the same in 4WDL before posting....

 

[walshie]

Just to add another reference to the argument, mine's a 3.0ltr and I do not have to reverse to disengage the 4wd and go back to 2wd which is excellent becasue it means in conditions like we've got at the moment where I stick it in 4wd to get out of our estate I can just knock it back in to 2wd when I get on to the gritted main road and I don't have to worry about reversing to disengage.

I can do this switch anywhere upto about 25mph like people have said, which again means the whole process is smooth and easy - someties you aren't able to reverse! Don't know about anyone else, but if I leave it it 4wd on grippy surface it soon tells me to stick it back in 2wd!

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

been thinking, ok i'll take some tablets.

in an auto hub vehicle ref shift on fly upto 25mph etc
the prop spins then the front axle which locks auto
so potentially prop is 0 mph along with axle but by time
catches up with rear prop in dog clutch the half shafts
are almost at same speed as front wheels so that is maybe
reason for 25mph max.

But if hubs are already locked or fixed then front prop should
be doing roughly same speed as rear at dog clutch assumming
no slippage from road surface. so these two cn be brought
together at a higher road speed a just meeting not trying to
catch up in coming together action.

thoughts on a postcode...

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

been thinking, ok i'll take some tablets.

in an auto hub vehicle ref shift on fly upto 25mph etc
the prop spins then the front axle which locks auto
so potentially prop is 0 mph along with axle but by time
catches up with rear prop in dog clutch the half shafts
are almost at same speed as front wheels so that is maybe
reason for 25mph max.

But if hubs are already locked or fixed then front prop should
be doing roughly same speed as rear at dog clutch assumming
no slippage from road surface. so these two cn be brought
together at a higher road speed a just meeting not trying to
catch up in coming together action.


thoughts on a postcode...

my thoughts are: what's a dog clutch? and dont say a bone :thumbs

 

[lacroupade]

been thinking, ok i'll take some tablets.

in an auto hub vehicle ref shift on fly upto 25mph etc
the prop spins then the front axle which locks auto
so potentially prop is 0 mph along with axle but by time
catches up with rear prop in dog clutch the half shafts
are almost at same speed as front wheels so that is maybe
reason for 25mph max.

But if hubs are already locked or fixed then front prop should
be doing roughly same speed as rear at dog clutch assumming
no slippage from road surface. so these two cn be brought
together at a higher road speed a just meeting not trying to
catch up in coming together action.

thoughts on a postcode...

See my new thread http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?p=77197#post77197 where, after some abuse, an interesting fact will shortly be revealed about the rate of knots at which you can engage 4WD with fixed hubs.:augie

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

a bit off topic but hopefully you will see my point!

I have a ford ranger which has electronically locked front hubs

so you have to stop to engage 4x4 initialy
then once the hubs are engaged you can change in and out at any speed

until that is you press abutoon and unlock the hubs

then you would have to start again!

so the 25mph rule must be as above posts suggest all down to the hubs!

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

ok meant postcard.

dog clutch : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_clutch

 

[dave36]

Dash switch

I was doing the reverse thing at first with my Mistral 2.7 1995, but the green un allways goes out when I sfift into 2wd - so do I need to reverse at all?
Also I have a dash switch labelled power hold A/T anyone know what its for and when to use it? Dont have an idea what position it should be in either as nothing seems to change wherever it is!
After lots of playing in the snow I do find that the auto box is taking a long time to change gear when cold.

 

[lacroupade]

I was doing the reverse thing at first with my Mistral 2.7 1995, but the green un allways goes out when I sfift into 2wd - so do I need to reverse at all?
Also I have a dash switch labelled power hold A/T anyone know what its for and when to use it? Dont have an idea what position it should be in either as nothing seems to change wherever it is!
After lots of playing in the snow I do find that the auto box is taking a long time to change gear when cold.

Not sure about that switch exactly, but the MkII auto has a switch that does A/T - Snow - Sport. A/T (All Terrain) is general use, Snow pulls it away in second gear and Sport just keeps it in gear for a bit longer than usual before changing up.

In fact the way to get max acceleration out of an auto is to disengage overdrive, select Sport and floor it, only engaging o/d again at the last minute when the rev limiter is close or you've max'd out.... :augie

But not sure if all you have is a 'power hold' function?