40mm Lift all round, I've got the lift bug!!!!

[Banshee]

Ok so being out here in Iceland and seeing all of their ridiculously lifted 4x4's I def want to get some lift on the go with the Maverick nothing as drastic as this though!!!!! :O

I want to go nice and high but not pay the earth, I've already toyed with the re-indexing of the torsion bars to bring the front up to the same level as the back but I want to go higher than that if I can, is it best me re-indexing first to bring the height of the car up all round and then fit a lift kit or put the lift kit on as is?

I was looking at one of these kits;
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=270603394839

Will this kit be ok? How hard will it be to fit and is there a cheaper alternative or should I go with this one?

Has anyone got any pics of an SWB Mav/Terrano with 40mm lift so I can see what height it will be sitting at?

Thanks in advance guys

 

[stinka]

This is ya best bet :

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17055

Or get the springs from west coast 4x4 or bloodred offroad

Also if you want proper articulation you'll need dislocation cones and longer shocks

Only do body lift if you are running 33" tyres

Suspension lift is more important

 

[Banshee]

This is ya best bet :

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17055

Or get the springs from west coast 4x4 or bloodred offroad

Also if you want proper articulation you'll need dislocation cones and longer shocks

Only do body lift if you are running 33" tyres

Suspension lift is more important

It's more of an asthetics thing at the moment not really doing it for off roading, when the time comes for that I'll invest in a proper kit and replace shocks and springs

What modification do they need when I get them? You say you cut them to size? Which bit needs cutting?

I'm running BFGoodrich A/T's at the moment but I've never understood what is meant by 31's or 33's etc, they are beefy lets put it like that lol

What's the difference then between suspension lift and body lift? Sorry to sound really thick :/

 

[makeitfit]

If you do want to do a body lift then here's a much cheaper kit http://xpajun.com/product_info.php?products_id=128
OR you can make your own for a few quid. :naughty

 

[Banshee]

If you do want to do a body lift then here's a much cheaper kit http://xpajun.com/product_info.php?products_id=128
OR you can make your own for a few quid. :naughty

So what you've linked me too is for body lift and what Stinka has linked me too is suspension lift, how does yours differ then? Where does yours fit? I'm confused as to where this fits :S

 

[stinka]

Best thing u can do is use the search function mate

 

[Fez_uk]

says what it does on the tin

 

[Banshee]

I've done that and only get about 6 threads of any relevance all of which I have read

 

[makeitfit]

The search function is always rubbish for me too
So in basics then.
The body lift I linked to is simply to lift the body up off the chassis. Very easy and cheap to do. Main reasons are to get more space to fit bigger tyres. As in Iceland a handy bonus . It also keeps the CofG relatively low.Any more than 2" lift will need gear lever mods and extended fuel filler pipe etc

The suspension lift as linked by Stinky allows mainly more movement of the axles through articulation and so helps keep the tyres on the ground longer. It will also give more room for bigger tyres.
Ideally fit both and then you can get 35" tyres on your T2, which is still small compared to Icelandic trucks.
Any bigger than 2" suspension lift and you'll need to change steering geometry and extend prop shaft and brake lines etc.

 

[Fez_uk]

body lift - lifts the body away from the chassis. So you can get more flex or/and fit bigger tyres or get "the look"

Suspension lift - Lifts your suspension from your chassis, Front will have more clearance. Diff will be same height above the ground. Again you can fit bigger tyres and/or more room for flex.

Edit: makeitfit beat me to it.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

body lifts are becoming popular on terrano types as the front suspension is independent
so the amount of suspension lift is limited compare to say a patrol with a live axle.

suspension lifting is usually limited top about 2 " with longer rear colis and re-indexed
front end, some say lifting front limits its droop ability.

lifting the body gets it away from the wheels allowing larger wheels to be fitted before
they contact the metal work. depending on height of lift the transfer lever will need
adjusting, 2.6" is quoted a practical limit before other issues kick in.

with only a body lift the standard suspension ride quality is maintained, its likely cheaper
to do though will take more effort getting the spacers in place.

31s and 33s are height /diameter of tyre, standard is in 29-30 inch range so a 33
gives upto 2 inches ground clearance despite climb into cab being 4 or so inches.

 

[Banshee]

The search function is always rubbish for me too
So in basics then.
The body lift I linked to is simply to lift the body up off the chassis. Very easy and cheap to do. Main reasons are to get more space to fit bigger tyres. As in Iceland a handy bonus . It also keeps the CofG relatively low.Any more than 2" lift will need gear lever mods and extended fuel filler pipe etc

The suspension lift as linked by Stinky allows mainly more movement of the axles through articulation and so helps keep the tyres on the ground longer. It will also give more room for bigger tyres.
Ideally fit both and then you can get 35" tyres on your T2, which is still small compared to Icelandic trucks.
Any bigger than 2" suspension lift and you'll need to change steering geometry and extend prop shaft and brake lines etc.

Fantastic write up mate I understand a little better now, so to achieve suspension lift longer shocks and springs are fitted, as for the body lift, where are those blocks fitted?

As asked before is it better that I level the front first by re-indexing the torsion bars or should I leave this?

I've already attempted to do this once and managed to wind the nut down to it's full length, dropped it off the axel stands and the car had gained about 2mm :S

 

[makeitfit]

Fantastic write up mate I understand a little better now, so to achieve suspension lift longer shocks and springs are fitted, as for the body lift, where are those blocks fitted?

As asked before is it better that I level the front first by re-indexing the torsion bars or should I leave this?

I've already attempted to do this once and managed to wind the nut down to it's full length, dropped it off the axel stands and the car had gained about 2mm :S

Body lift blocks just fit like spacers between the body and the chassis mounts. There's 8 bolts that hold the body on , that's it. Do a search :lol
Re-index if you cant level the std set up, but should be about 15mm lower at the front I think anyway. Again try a search

 

[stinka]

Do a suspension lift first its easiest and will get your front crossmember and chassis up out of the mud and off the rocks, you will be winding torsion bar up anyway if lifting 2"

 

[melissachels]

The search function is always rubbish for me too
So in basics then.

Any bigger than 2" suspension lift and you'll need to change steering geometry and extend prop shaft and brake lines etc.

where can you get things like an extended prop from for the t2??

 

[makeitfit]

where can you get things like an extended prop from for the t2??

No idea, just put a spacer in

 

[melissachels]

No idea, just put a spacer in

From where???

 

[stinka]

Make a pattern from 18mm mdf of the flange, then take it to your local engineering firm

 

[Fez_uk]

or depending on how much extra you need a lwb one may work?

 

[makeitfit]

From where???

It's only really relevant if you're doing a 4" suspension lift for example , OR going for massive rear end articulation.
That sort of thing is easily done on live axles but really awkward with IFS
Easy to make though , probably just get a bit of bar the right diameter and cut a chunk off , drill some holes and Bob's your Fanny's aunt :thumbs