3" suspension lift

[stinka]

Ok so what problems will encounter lifting the front as well as rear by 3" ?

I assume loads of negative camber ?

So do i need to space the ball joints out ?

Anyone done this ?

 

[R1cho]

for the back springs and spacers or just spacers, the front however is a max of 2" the torsions wont handle anymore than that for very long

 

[stinka]

for the back springs and spacers or just spacers, the front however is a max of 2" the torsions wont handle anymore than that for very long

wd21 is same as r20

Looking on Aus forums, shit loads of them have done 3 and 4" on front.

Some have used spacers and some longer upper control arms ( UCA's)

I'm feeling I could do 3" on rear and adjust 2" on front. and shim it an extra 18mm with spacers, that would do nicely for now until i can import the longer UCA's :thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

The ucas are just corrected for camber. I've got some Calmini ones. Though you can do that with yours by correctly shimming between uca and chassis.
3" lift is doable but you'll have virtually no droop. Even spacing the ball joints will only correct to about 20mm beyond that you'll be bending bolts etc. CV joints will fail too. I know I've been there and it's a bit teadious replacing shit every 4 weeks If you dont space the ball joints they will fail PDQ.
Proper 3" and 4" lifts are done by dropping the front subframe etc. It gets you nowhere but skint quicker and still no more clearance under the diff:doh
The only real way forward is BIG TYRES. end of :sly
To get big tyres AND suspension travel, fit extended springs, not spaced ones, extended shocks and a body lift.
Enjoy

 

[stinka]

The ucas are just corrected for camber. I've got some Calmini ones. Though you can do that with yours by correctly shimming between uca and chassis.
3" lift is doable but you'll have virtually no droop. Even spacing the ball joints will only correct to about 20mm beyond that you'll be bending bolts etc. CV joints will fail too. I know I've been there and it's a bit teadious replacing shit every 4 weeks If you dont space the ball joints they will fail PDQ.
Proper 3" and 4" lifts are done by dropping the front subframe etc. It gets you nowhere but skint quicker and still no more clearance under the diff:doh
The only real way forward is BIG TYRES. end of :sly
To get big tyres AND suspension travel, fit extended springs, not spaced ones, extended shocks and a body lift.
Enjoy

Well, I've got some +3" rear springs coming :sly

Just don't know what to do with front ...

2.5" lift would be fine on front, can you explain shimming between uca and chassis in a modicum of detail for me please ?

thanks :clap

 

[makeitfit]

Always a good look that old skooll stylee, like 70s custom cars jacked up back end and slammed front...............
There are shims ( graded thickness washers) between the top arm and the chassis. Putting different size ones in there will adjust camber, and also castor.
Check the manual for the size chart as it relates angle of camber to thickness of shim :thumbs
2 1/2" lift up front will need ball joint spacers or your balls will split and cv will stress out, fact.
Good luck

 

[stinka]

lads on the aus/us forums seem to run their front end so the bottom arm is a finger width off the bump stop, some even fit lower profile bump stops to get 4" lift

:nenau

 

[stinka]

They are saying anything below 45 degrees is ok for the outer cv joint

 

[Fez_uk]

Why are you after so much lift?

 

[stinka]

Why are you after so much lift?

well, with a possible 2.5-3" on rear i want the front at 2.25 to 2.5" depending on what the rear settle at, just looking at what is servicable in terms of front lift and many differing opinions all over the net

 

[stinka]

There are shims ( graded thickness washers) between the top arm and the chassis. Putting different size ones in there will adjust camber, and also castor.
Check the manual for the size chart as it relates angle of camber to thickness of shim :thumbs

Are these shims available off the shelf or on ebay ?

Where is the manual btw, do u mean workshop downloads as i couldn't see owt ?

 

[briggie]

Are these shims available off the shelf or on ebay ?

Where is the manual btw, do u mean workshop downloads as i couldn't see owt ?

http://f9x.co.uk/briggie/index.html

 

[makeitfit]

Ballocks.
I can only imagine they're green laning then
I know physically it will go but the perfomance off road must be shite.
Do what you like but I've run mine hard off road and pay n play sites. It will break and you'll have the front wheels spinning all the bloody time.
They way I understand your style of driving I think you're going to be doing a lot more spannering very soon :surrender

 

[stinka]

Ballocks.
I can only imagine they're green laning then
I know physically it will go but the perfomance off road must be shite.
Do what you like but I've run mine hard off road and pay n play sites. It will break and you'll have the front wheels spinning all the bloody time.
They way I understand your style of driving I think you're going to be doing a lot more spannering very soon :surrender

How come the front wheels will spin ?

 

[makeitfit]

Just remembered another issue of 3" + lift you'll need to get some prop shaft UJs in stock too. The axle/prop angle is much greater and so the uj wears out quickly.
So either drop gearbox mount or make adjustable axle arms to correct prop angle.
You may be able to get larger angle h/d uj like Landies use at a price

 

[makeitfit]

How come the front wheels will spin ?

'cause they've got no where left to go so one will always be unloaded and so the open diff will spin em up

 

[stinka]

I hear what you are saying about all this, but i tend to drive fast along dirt tracks, not really much of a rock crawler. Ultimately the loss of droop would be overcome with a LOKKER

 

[makeitfit]

Indeeed, so why bother lifting the front into the damage zone?
Just put some decent size tyres on, simples.

 

[stinka]

Indeeed, so why bother lifting the front into the damage zone?
Just put some decent size tyres on, simples.

31's are spot on for me tbh, would not want raise my gearing at all from this point as it was noticeable from stock to 31's

I think i will see how i go with cv joints, you can get tougher ones imported so i read

 

[stinka]

Do you reckon these will do to move the uca out a bit ?

some longer m14 x 1.5 bolts first :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350261307377?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And these m14x 2.5mm thick washers:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-STAIN..._Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item23007f17c1

Say 4 washers on each bolt, thats 10mm, would that be close ??

as long as i do it same on each bolt caster wont be affected, only camber