1 1/2 inch lift with the spacers

[extreme-4x4]

so why do they lover the rad mount then . i thought it was because the engine stays with the chassis, and the rad goes up with the body so it had to be lowered to line up with the engine again .... only deleted my pics yesterday, ill look for some to show you what i mean

 

[Terranosaurus]

I know what you mean but its a lot easier to rotate the pipes a bit and lower the fan cowling instead or in fact on mine the fan cowling was so slack a fit to the fan I didn't even have to bother.

 

[greasemunky]

so why do they lover the rad mount then . i thought it was because the engine stays with the chassis, and the rad goes up with the body so it had to be lowered to line up with the engine again .... only deleted my pics yesterday, ill look for some to show you what i mean

i've heard thats there no mods to be done but i don't know?

 

[Darwin]

i've heard thats there no mods to be done but i don't know?

at the very least you would need to extend the pipe to the filler cap I would have thought.

The brake lines seem to have a coiled up piece in the engine bay so they ''may'' stretch

I am looking at doing a lift but am under no illusions , its gonna be a bitch

 

[greasemunky]

at the very least you would need to extend the pipe to the filler cap I would have thought.

The brake lines seem to have a coiled up piece in the engine bay so they ''may'' stretch

I am looking at doing a lift but am under no illusions , its gonna be a bitch

ill let you know as i will tackle it next weekend weather permitting

 

[Terranosaurus]

at the very least you would need to extend the pipe to the filler cap I would have thought.

The brake lines seem to have a coiled up piece in the engine bay so they ''may'' stretch

I am looking at doing a lift but am under no illusions , its gonna be a bitch

You've about got it there.

Extend fuel filler and breather.
Brake pipes and electrics are long enough you just need to make sure the slack is where you need it.
Steering column shaft pinch bolt needs slackening to allow shaft to move - due to the angle it barely moves compared to the lift.
Rad fan cowling may need moving relative to the rad. Pipes will need slackening and turning to best fit (in my experience anyway).
Bumper needs relocating brackets making.
You need to source longer bolts.
Also need to get rusty old bolts out.

Last 3 bits were the hardest when I did mine before. That and actually lifting the body - easy if you have access to a 2 post lift - I did one side at a time using a block of wood along the sill, a trolley jack and lots of wood to take up the gap.

The bolts are not available off the shelf - I;m going to enquire tomorrow about having a batch made.

 

[greasemunky]

You've about got it there.

Extend fuel filler and breather.
Brake pipes and electrics are long enough you just need to make sure the slack is where you need it.
Steering column shaft pinch bolt needs slackening to allow shaft to move - due to the angle it barely moves compared to the lift.
Rad fan cowling may need moving relative to the rad. Pipes will need slackening and turning to best fit (in my experience anyway).
Bumper needs relocating brackets making.
You need to source longer bolts.
Also need to get rusty old bolts out.

Last 3 bits were the hardest when I did mine before. That and actually lifting the body - easy if you have access to a 2 post lift - I did one side at a time using a block of wood along the sill, a trolley jack and lots of wood to take up the gap.

The bolts are not available off the shelf - I;m going to enquire tomorrow about having a batch made.

i've bought a kit bolts nuts and spacers so il see what i get when they come?

 

[makeitfit]

Ref. body going up and where most of the weight is.
Even though "most" of the weight is in the engine and chassis, you will still raise your C of G and hence lower your stability, fact.
Something to do with inertia too if I remember, so as your moving round corners the effect is made worse.
I learned from Trex about flex and copied his example. However I think its better to work on a wider base, ie bigger offset wheels and or spacers. Bigger tyres and maybe some body trimming. That way you get the important bit which is diff clearance and articulation.

See my thread "Flextastic"
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5289&highlight=flex


"Probably" :augie

 

[Terranosaurus]

Ref. body going up and where most of the weight is.
Even though "most" of the weight is in the engine and chassis, you will still raise your C of G and hence lower your stability, fact.

yes but my point was that inch for inch a bodylift is more stable than a spring lift - with a spring lift you get a greater raise in the centre of gravity than you do with a body lift.

Also with a body lift you trully get more room for larger wheels.

I'm planning to do a body lift, I've already fitted wider more offset wheels to the point where I now need arches (not zippy I haven't got any photos yet) - good job I have a set to go on I suppose :lol

But then when it comes to march again and Mac callenge I'm going to go back to a more sensible milder MT or even AT and pull the spring lift out. Will take about an hour to remove the spring lift, 20 mins to do the srings and 20 mins a side to wind the torsion bars back down. This shoud leave me with a mildly lifted motor with a fairly low c of g (lots of road miles on the mac) thats still got room for the wheels to move around fully without catching. But in the meantime I can run a big lift with room for my new tyres even on full articulation -may even go to longer still shocks with relocation cones.

 

[makeitfit]

Oh I see, I didn't realise you were talking standard springs.
So if you lift the body on std springs you havent gained any flex:augie
Would you then be able to run say 33s on std spring plus body lift?

 

[Terranosaurus]

33s Depends how big a bodylift i suppose. Dunno will tell you when I've done it - think they'll still touch up front. Mine do now I've put bigger offset wheels, offset does not help them clear the bulkhead/footwell area.

Don't think I'll loose much flex with standard springs over +2" - not so ling as I keep the longer shocks on - axle will still go upwards fine and gravity will let it drop - just need relocation cones and the springs nailing to the body or axle.

 

[Adz]

Don't think I'll loose much flex with standard springs over +2" - not so ling as I keep the longer shocks on - axle will still go up wards fine and gravity will let it drop - just need relocation cones and the springs nailing to the body or axle.

Mines now on 31"s
Your shocks,1 pair longer
Torsion bar wound up to the limit
Rear anti roll bar removed

Flex is :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

Cool , sounds like another challenge
The bulkhead footwell area is not too much bother as you know:augie
When I put mine on the forklift the other day, I found there is plenty of room for 33s, with a little body trim on the back arches. there's plenty of height in the wheel house though:thumbs
Trimed the back bumper already so good to go as is pretty much .
Just need some more dosh for the ruddy tyres:doh
Will be Kumho KL71 33 x 11.5 x 16 equiv.

 

[Adz]

Cool , sounds like another challenge
The bulkhead footwell area is not too much bother as you know:augie
When I put mine on the forklift the other day, I found there is plenty of room for 33s, with a little body trim on the back arches. there's plenty of height in the wheel house though:thumbs
Trimed the back bumper already so good to go as is pretty much .
Just need some more dosh for the ruddy tyres:doh
Will be Kumho KL71 33 x 11.5 x 16 equiv.

<TABLE id=tblheading cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; TEXT-ALIGN: left">Kumho KL71


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• 31X10.5 15 109Q<LI class=altrow>32x11.50 R15 113Q
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[makeitfit]

That's them, those tangy 305s :naughty

 

[Terranosaurus]

Mines now on 31"s
Your shocks,1 pair longer
Torsion bar wound up to the limit
Rear anti roll bar removed

Flex is :thumbs

What springs you got on? If LWB you need to attach them to either the axle or the chassis or you're likely to loose one when on full flex.

 

[Adz]

What springs you got on? If LWB you need to attach them to either the axle or the chassis or you're likely to loose one when on full flex.

Standard :lol

& yes 1 could quite easily fall out on full flex :doh :augie

But not on what I'm doing at the moment :thumbs