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Thanks Rick, I also tried one of those kits I use on the brakes to push the fluid out and still no bubbles, think it's a gunson kit that uses a spare tyre. Anyway. I adjusted the clutch pedal again and set it to 5mm to the end of the push rod which seemed excessive to me, but.......it worked...

Ok, so slave cylinder changed, master cylinder changed (there was black sludge in there, but no apparent leak) and flexi hose changed, damper blocked off. Now bled several times. The clutch pedal needs to be pumped several times to get into gear, which would suggest a bleed issue, but believe I...

I've adjusted up and down (but not to each limit) and the problem is still there. However....the lock nut has not been wound in, I was going to tighten it down when I had resolved the problem. So for testing purposes do I need to position the lock nut, would have thought the threaded part would...

It's not exactly stained behind the pedal but there could be past evidence of something. Going to change it anyway. So that will be a whole new hydraulic system. Should have an answer by Wednesday.

Thanks for the reply. I've tried finishing on the slave and on the master. Been under and over the truck most of today, it's frustrating the hell out of me. Im thinking the clutch plate may have worn. I've had the terrano since 2008 and have put about 80k miles on it and it was the same clutch...

Another update to the last one. If I engage gear first then start the engine, biting point is at the bottom of the clutch travel and the car is creeping forward and there is a clutch burning smell !!

Update - oddly there seems good pressure when the engine is not running, as soon as the engine starts the pressure drops and I can't engage gear. I know the clutch isn't power assisted, but very strange.

Ok, so I've replaced the slave cylinder and flexi hose, bled the clutch from the slave and master cylinder, and still the clutch pressure is weak. The damper pipe has been blocked off at the block on the new flexi hose. Could the master cylinder be knackered ? Thanks.

Cheers Rick, that's my first option.

Cheaper and less hassle to buy new ones surely, No ?

So, I can use the same washers but warm them up a bit, right ?

Do I need copper washers or anything when I connect the flexi hose to the slave cylinder ? Thanks

I have a 2.7 tdi, 1998 model, I assume I use GL4 80/90w gear oil ? Also confused about whether molyslip is Ok in this model, can someone confirm yay or nay ? Thanks

Feckwits the lot of them. I paid £10 to register and go through the pipe/bridge once return. Because the account goes below £10, they take another £10 so the account is always above £10,that's their policy....apparently. So I have £16.26 doing f'all , except earning interest for them !

Any ideas ?

Can I confirm that using part adn153906 I can connect from the slave cylinder direct to the pipe from the master cylinder and that the male thread will fit the female on the new pipe , thus avoiding the metal block on the usual part (adn153904) ? Thanks

Thanks, I'll give it a go. The tank seams were good as you said when I picked it up. I only fitted it last week and only half filled it. Only filled it up to the top a few days ago and discovered the leak as described. Appreciate all your help Thanks

Will it stick ? I assume only a little diesel residue will cause it to fail again ? Thanks

Thanks Rick, but... There is the sender unit , the rubber seal , then a plate with screw holes in , then the tank. The plate is part of the tank and it weeps under the plate. I need to squirt or mould some jollop under the weeping plate. I think my issue is to get the oily diesel removed so...

I have a leak around the sender unit on the top of the fuel tank. It's had a new seal but appears to be weeping under the metal re-inforcing plate that's fixed to the tank where the sender unit screws down, hope that makes sense ?! Possibly my only option is to throughly dry the area of diesel...