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During a long highway run yesterday something started whining badly inside the dashboard. Checked forum when I got back, put some oil in the speedo cable cup, and it looks to be solved. Big test tomorrow, going to work with it (30 miles highway), but I have high hopes :) Now I wonder what the...

I hope the car gets a wash before someone forks out £3000...

Wise ones, I'm a little upset. Changed all the oils on my T2 this weekend, just finished with the gearbox oil. The little magnet on the drain plug held some small metal parts - but also a bunch of very small ball bearings (1mm or so across). Never noticed anything wrong with the gearbox, it is...

10W40 should do it, but I have to concur with Banshee, engine is more quiet with mineral oil. Just changed all the oils on mine.

Does the front dif take the same GL-5 LS oil as the rear dif, on a 2.7 TDI? Manual and the little instruction booklet in the car are not very clear... Also, I got (very cheap, sales) 2 cans of 75W90 LS GL-5, Valvoline I think. Would these be suitable for the front dif?

Not so for me, once you invest time and money making it better. The previous owner probably knows full well the worth of the caravan, might just not have had the time to either restore it himself or to negotiate a sale.

Very happy with my AVM manual hubs - but you do have to keep an eye on them; the Allen bolts holding the hub on my T2 have a tendency to come loose. I'm thinking of stripping and degreasing everything and applying some loctite on those bolts.

Inserting soft rubber hose into the door seal solved leak issues on my T2. But now I discovered a new small leak from the top of the metal panel replacing the rear windows. I'll do that when it is a bit warmer outside, so I can take out the panels, sand them down and repaint + place new rubber...

They are corroded; had the same with my brake lines. Especially where the pipes pass through a bracket on the chassis. If I were you I would ask the mechanic to replace both fuel and brake lines - if you're even a bit handy you can do the fuel lines yourself, does not even require the car to be...

No calipers at the rear I think, he probably meant a binding brake pad in the drum brake. There is a workshop download on how to adjust them, but probably easier to just install new brake pads/springs etc. Solved it on my T2; since I had everything out I also changed one of the handbrake cables...

Yep. My 2 labradors know to the minute when it is 7 PM - feeding time. And woe to the one who is late with feeding them!

Annette, try swarfega or other garage type handsoaps. Apply, brush with a stiff brush, rinse. Repeat :). This is what I use on the cement lines between the floor tiles in my garage. If there's a lot of oil, get a bag of sawdust or something similar from your local motor factors, to soak up any...

You have to take off both the inner plastic wheel arch lining and the metal front wing. The largest part of the reservoir including the pump is hidden by the wing, completely inaccessible without removal of lining and wing. However, it is possible to take off the lining and wing without...

I had washer pump trouble a while ago (1997 T2). I have one pump serving both front and back washers; polarity is reversed to make it pump one way or the other. On mine the pump was actually dead, no noise at all. So if yours is grunting, the issue might be in the pipework or the nozzles. Or...

Why the used engine oil? The moment water splashes up to your chassis rails you'll be spreading oil over the landscape...

Indeed, belts were more loose than they should. Tightened, we'll see tomorrow.

Good point, completely did not think of that. I'll check tonight.

I noticed the car developed a few squeaks under the bonnet - less than 2 months after replacing all the belts. Especially the power steering pump belt squeaks, when on full lock, and the airco belt. Could it be the various pulleys, and if so, are they serviceable parts? Or better to try and...

Yes, rinse and let properly dry without driving the car in the mean time, as the treated surface is vulnerable.

Wash away (high pressure) all the mud and crud, remove as much rust as possible, then wet again and treat everything with Fertan. When dry, use underbody protection. Waxyol or similar, not hammerite, as hammerite does not flex at all and will crack very soon. Better to do this job in summer...