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As said you are going to need to remove the lay shaft in order to do the job properly and inspect all items carefully, that 4th gear synchro will have suffered damage although slight it will most likely just jamb up again so needs to be changed, prior to retirement I was a general builder come...

So overall not too bad, be interesting to see the difference between the old and new parts, shame I cannot read the two pages, just too blurred, Rick

Once you have it apart, you need to check the distance between synchro and gear to check if within tolerance, this is where they wear, Rick

If you have the info on the box it will tell you how to check the wear tolerance etc, but clearly there is something going on there that is not correct, I have never seen those slippers jump out even on worn rings, perhaps the discontinued ones are the bad ones and the new ones modified to sort...

You are going to need to pull the layshaft first after that it will only be the selector fork holding it on, be careful the needle rollers 1st motion to main shaft may not be captive, I would be replacing that synchro ring as well, it looks quite worn and it is likely to be worn where it...

That selector fork is the 3rd/4th gear, so if it is stuck in 3rd that fork and operating shaft are the ones stuck, Rick

Down side of that is the head locating bolts are a little slack so it needed setting up again, side to side I had a difference of 4 thou and front to back 9 thou, the best way I have found is with a long fly cutter, get the bed close and measure with feelers, this way I do not scratch the bed...

Have to say I was not too impressed with the finish on the disk, but never having turned such a large item before especially cast iron I did some research and found my spindle speed was a tad high plus on closer inspection the TC insert was dull, it was a new one for the job but guess the rust...

Good luck with that Zac, I can only handle 4 wheels these days, Rick

I think that beam is well capable of taking the box and probably the engine as well, but I agree best take no chances, Rick

Had an old disk laying around, so stuck it on for a test, all good well pleased, but got some vertical milling to do now to make a tool grinder so all this will have to come off again, Rick

Chuck mounted and ready for work

Back side of the chuck

Register sorted, now to drill the 3 mounting holes

First skim, it had a couple of imperfections in the cast so took around 10 thou off to get a clean face, next phase is to turn a register that precisely matches the chuck, no room for error here it has to be perfect, so poss start that tomorrow, if it is OUT then all subsequent work on this...

Back plate mounted after thread cutting which went surprisingly well, now I need to face it off to make a base for my 6 inch chuck, it is important to face off on the machine it is going to be used on in order to obtain the best tolerance, I expect better than 1 thou, note the rough and ready...

Never having cut such a coarse thread on the lathe before decided to test it out on a bit of plastic, this is the result after a couple of failed tries, it was pushing my little super7 as it has an 8tpi lead screw and this thread is 7tpi, fortunately it is an imperial thread as is my lead screw...

See what you mean about the box, completely different, so not much help from me then, hope all goes well, Rick

Collin I had a look at the shop manual today and the top cover comes off complete with selector forks, (it is in 3 parts, you will already have removed the gear stick and cover, remove the other 2 as one) it may be however that being jammed in 3rd that that might not be so easy, if that is the...

Successfully machined a 2 inch thread into the blank backplate I obtained and fitted it to the mill, now need to true it up and turn a register onto it to accept a 6 inch 3 jaw chuck, once done when I do my clutch on the Patrol, then if my flywheel needs facing I will be in a position to do it...