Which brake shoes to buy?

[AlexD333]

What's the best shoes? I'm looking for something slow wearing!!! Long lasting!!!

Anyone got any personal experience with which shoes are good or bad?

Also are the old model shoes the same as the new?

[macabethiel]

For how much braking effort there is on the rear of a vehicle any half decent make will do.
Most rear brake shoe wear is a combination of leaving the handbrake on and seized braking mechanisms. I have found that on disc drum set ups the rear linings should be good for 70k plus miles this has been the case on everything I have worked on from my Terrano to my late Mums Micras.

[Sweety]

Short answer is any as the rear breaks hardly do anything so shoes last years, mines still got the factory fitted ones on & that's after 61K they might get replaced this year or poss next depending what state they are in when I strip & clean the brakes before the MOT

[solarman216]

your shoes Alex are very different to those up to around 2000, make sure you get the right ones and if you are going to fill the drum up with abrasive mud then it matters little what make they are, Rick

[AlexD333]

That's it... I will be ordering milners rear shoes tomorrow as they haven't messed up yet... We all remember my last purchase from ziggy with my crappy steering....

Is it essential to release the bolt near the handbrake at the front?

What determines if the shoes bind or not? (Silly question I know) just the slack on the adjuster for the hand brake?

[rustic]

Originally Posted by AlexD333

Is it essential to release the bolt near the handbrake at the front?

What determines if the shoes bind or not? (Silly question I know) just the slack on the adjuster for the hand brake?

Alex, the fact that you are asking these questions, again, and having been present when Rick did them, and after directing you to the workshop download, I think you should leave them to the experts.

Brakes should not be messed with, if you get one bit just slightly wrong, you can be driving with faulty brakes, or inefficient brakes, or even no brakes at all.
The consequences of this could be a fatality.

Yes to answer your first question AGAIN... the handbrake adjuster must be slackened first... then is the last item to be tightened, after adjustments have been made in the drum, and there is no binding.

Yes the brakes will bind if you don't slacken off the Auto brake adjuster, you will also have to push in the brake cylinder pistons, caution, this could make the reservoir over flow...

However when assembling, the auto adjuster has to be adjusted manually, after being slackened to allow for the new thicker linings, which will entail replacing and removing the brake drum several times, adjust, drum on, apply brakes.. see * drum off...adjust........ do this until you can just get the drum back on, and there is no binding... Then do the other side... Only then can the slack be taken up on the handbrake adjuster.

* You will also have to centralise the shoes by applying the brakes, again several times. Only do one drum at a time, otherwise the cylinder will pop on the other side.

On some shoes it can be recommended to chamfer the leading edge.

As I am writing this... I don't think you will achieve this safely, and I haven't even mentioned the handbrake link, or the return springs, which are easy to fit when you know how, or where to put the copper slip grease...
No not a job for you Alex.

Add to this, after a few hundred miles, it might be necessary to readjust the rear brakes again as the new shoes bed in.

Wow... that took a long time to write...
Sorry Alex, it's because I care.
Uncle Rustic

[AlexD333]

Cheers for that Rustic.

Several important facts, I'm not doing it myself, one of the technicians at work will be doing it, unfortunately jags don't have drums so...

I understand the principle of the shoes and cylinders clearly, this does not confuse me, the bit that confuses me is this auto adjuster, and also the fact that I have a different auto adjuster set up to the early models on here too....

Why it's different I don't know... But it actually works

We certainly didn't undo any bolt from inside the cab? But when we were testing the brakes the handbrake was initially incredibly slack, once we started to apply and re apply the handbrake it started to get better (I guess as the adjuster began to turn)

The tech helping me is very skilled indeed, been in the trade a very long time and he does not get any come backs compared to some techs, only point he mentioned is the fact that jags don't have drums so we will have to strip and see.

That's why I was after some info

This took a long time to write as well

[rustic]

The reason the adjusters on yours are different... is.... yours clearly work.
The earlier ones do not... hence my long post.
The first time I did them, the handbrake was crap, I evolved this method for mine, and it can hold a two ton boat and trailer on a steep wet slipway, only on the handbrake, engine on tick over etc.
I'm confident that your technician will be able to do it correctly.

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by AlexD333

Cheers for that Rustic.

The tech helping me is very skilled indeed, been in the trade a very long time and he does not get any come backs compared to some techs, only point he mentioned is the fact that jags don't have drums so we will have to strip and se

TBH a skilled technician should have moved the adjusters manually to get the adjustment close before fitting the drums then tweaking them to allow for any wear lip on the drum leaving the auto adjusters to take up future wear.

Not having a go at a "Very skilled technician" but as a skilled amateur I understand that much !

[AlexD333]

Well I suspect my rear shoes have been binding as they have gone so quick, admittedly I have been in mud a few times but only on a handful of occasions.

Shoes were ordered this morning from milners with discount too I will snap some pics on Saturday

[rustic]

Originally Posted by AlexD333

Well I suspect my rear shoes have been binding as they have gone so quick, admittedly I have been in mud a few times but only on a handful of occasions.

Shoes were ordered this morning from milners with discount too I will snap some pics on Saturday

When you think about it, Mud might be slippy when wet, but it is made from finely ground up rock, held in a solution of water, which can find it's way into every nook and crevice.
Can also act as a constantly wet paint, in contact with your chassis, eating it, corroding it. It will pour like water into your sills, and leave a thick wet deposit at the bottom, and a thin coating on all vertical surfaces, it will also block drains, and maintain a virtually constantly wet environment for the rust to get on with it's destruction.

It's also like having a constant supply of carborundum paste in your drums, calipers, UJ's, bearings, and ball joints.

Some of us might think that sand is agressive, but the particle size of that is so much greater.

So is there a link between corrosion and wading through thick mud? and also for the short life of Uj's, wheel bearings, brakes, suspension parts?:
The short life of components might also be caused with more off roading, as it wears parts quicker anyway.

I recon there is a link, but we could do a survey to compare.
Rustic

[AlexD333]

Originally Posted by rustic

When you think about it, Mud might be slippy when wet, but it is made from finely ground up rock, held in a solution of water, which can find it's way into every nook and crevice.
Can also act as a constantly wet paint, in contact with your chassis, eating it, corroding it. It will pour like water into your sills, and leave a thick wet deposit at the bottom, and a thin coating on all vertical surfaces, it will also block drains, and maintain a virtually constantly wet environment for the rust to get on with it's destruction.

It's also like having a constant supply of carborundum paste in your drums, calipers, UJ's, bearings, and ball joints.

Some of us might think that sand is agressive, but the particle size of that is so much greater.

So is there a link between corrosion and wading through thick mud? and also for the short life of Uj's, wheel bearings, brakes, suspension parts?:
The short life of components might also be caused with more off roading, as it wears parts quicker anyway.

I recon there is a link, but we could do a survey to compare.
Rustic

Yep, I reckon this is worth trying to find out, I've been stuck in "rick style" mud on one occasion which Is the swamp video you all saw.

Failing that I've been through mud but never long lasting. The majority of my driving had been road use for sure, and the swamp was only fairly recent, actually the reason I removed the rear hubs to clean, it was then I realised there was bugger all left

Estimate this had lasted me 10/12 thousand miles only