Handbrake tension changed randomly

AlexD333 · 06-03-2015, 23:00

I suspect my rear hubs are full of mud from the swamp as one minute the handbrake applied as normal, then the next time it goes stiff only half way up.

Can anyone remind me how easy it is to remove the covers?

Nuts off

Wheels off

Spacers off

Blank..

R1cho · 07-03-2015, 00:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexD333

I suspect my rear hubs are full of mud from the swamp as one minute the handbrake applied as normal, then the next time it goes stiff only half way up.

Can anyone remind me how easy it is to remove the covers?

Nuts off

Wheels off

Spacers off

Blank..

Hubs off

Sweety · 07-03-2015, 00:07

Check your h/brake cables as well as they could be caked in mud stopping them working correctly but to get the drums off jack up the back end & put on stands

take wheels off & use 2x M8 bolts I think it is to screw into the 2 holes in the drum to pull it off then clean & adjust brakes if needed

bud · 07-03-2015, 04:53

Two threaded m10 holes in front of brake drum screw two bolts in evenly and it will start sliding the drum off the hub. Inspect as pernormal.... do not touch the brake pedal with the drum off or you fire the pistons clean out of the cylinder.

Take the tension right off the hand brake lever adjustment and put the lever in the down position, next get a flat head screw driver and turn the small adjusment sproket on the preset rod between the two brake pads untill it is just touching the drum as you slide it back over the brake shoes.

You might aswell adjust them right up if ya going to pull them to bits.

bud · 07-03-2015, 04:55

Two threaded m10 holes in front of brake drum screw two bolts in evenly and it will start sliding the drum off the hub. Inspect as pernormal.... do not touch the brake pedal with the drum off or you fire the pistons clean out of the cylinder.

Take the tension right off the hand brake lever adjustment and put the lever in the down position, next get a flat head screw driver and turn the small adjusment sproket on the preset rod between the two brake pads untill it is just touching the drum as you slide it back over the brake shoes.

You might aswell adjust them right up if ya going to pull them to bits.

Blocky10 · 07-03-2015, 07:13

That'll be one post for each wheel then. :-P

macabethiel · 07-03-2015, 08:35

This happened to me years ago on a Vauxhall FB series Victor. I had been off roading in Wales on a Forrestry Commision Road - turned out to be a broken rear spring that allowed the wheel on that side to move backwards taking up the handbrake adjustments. Had to disconnect the handbrake completely to get her home for new rear springs !

rustic · 07-03-2015, 09:08

Did mine yesterday.
1 slightly loosen all 12 rear wheel nuts while vehicle is on the ground
2 Chock front wheels
3 Jack up rear Diff, place two axle stands under axle, one each side
4 using a 10mm deep socket, loosen the hand brake adjuster nut by putting handbrake on, and moving aside the plastic piece under the handbrake to expose the nylock nut. Undo about 5 or 6 complete turns, then handbrake off.
5 remove rear wheels
6 using 2 x M8 bolts in the threaded holes in the drum, tighten until the drum starts to move, then slacken both and hit the drum with your fist, or rubber mallet, and you should hear the brake linings drop back, you might need to do this two or three times.
7 Slide drum off
8 clean linings and drum with brake cleaner
9 inspect components for leaks
10 adjust auto adjusters one click at a time, but place drum over after each adjustment to check.

Caution
Avoid beathing the dust
Only remove one drum at a time, as when you place the drum back, you might want to use the handbrake or foot brake to centralise the shoes after adjustment or replacement, and you don't want to wreck the slave cylinders by popping the pistons and covering the linings in brake fluid...

When you are happy with the auto adjusters, replace wheels, tighten wheel nuts then go to hand brake adjusting nut and tighten, what I do is note when the shoes start to bind on one click of the handbrake, when rotating the rear wheel to check for binding, both wheels will turn in the same direction, due to the LSD and the wheel is quite stiff, but you can detect when the brakes are just binding.
When happy with this, remove axle stands and jack, then tighten the wheel nuts using a torque wrench.

Time to do this task... 30 mins to an hour...

DO NOT attempt any work on the braking system unless you have the necessary experience, the correct tools and safety gear.
ALEX... I know you have axle stands.... so use them...

Go for a test drive, which doesn't use much braking, and check the drums for excessive heat, due to any binding, and be prepared to slacken the handbrake adjusting nut.

An alternative, is to drive to Ricks via a suitable retailer to purchase ia bottle of Malt whisky.

Rustic

terrano bob · 07-03-2015, 09:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blocky10

That'll be one post for each wheel then. :-P

AlexD333 · 07-03-2015, 10:09

I remember this from ricks somewhat, I don't remember using those m8 bolts to slide off the hubs though, just a mallet if I remember.

Also I have the facelift model and the auto adjusters actually work

All I'm gonna do it remove the mud I think

firebobby · 07-03-2015, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexD333

I remember this from ricks somewhat, I don't remember using those m8 bolts to slide off the hubs though, just a mallet if I remember.

Also I have the facelift model and the auto adjusters actually work

All I'm gonna do it remove the mud I think

RICKkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk!!

rustic · 07-03-2015, 10:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebobby

RICKkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk!!

Well... if Alex is doing it... What can possibly go wrong?

Assuming he does it right... when he checks it, it's still as bad as before...
what else..?

AlexD333 · 07-03-2015, 19:30

All is ok and done, lots of horrid sludge removed from inside the hubs, this job was made much more difficult by the fact I have wheel spacers, the bolts must be perfectly inline for the spacer to realign otherwise it will not lay against the hub.. Still all done now

Considering these are only 8 months old (shoes and cylinder) they are looking pretty sorry for themselves

Rick did mention the rears will wear out faster than the front shoes

The truck is certainly not binding as I roll easily on any slant

All these pics are after I removed the sludge that I could... Not long left on those rear shoes

06-03-2015, 23:00	#1
AlexD333 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Uk Vehicle: 2004 Terrano 2.7 TDI Posts: 7,847	Handbrake tension changed randomly I suspect my rear hubs are full of mud from the swamp as one minute the handbrake applied as normal, then the next time it goes stiff only half way up. Can anyone remind me how easy it is to remove the covers? Nuts off Wheels off Spacers off Blank..

07-03-2015, 08:35	#7
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	Handbrake operation This happened to me years ago on a Vauxhall FB series Victor. I had been off roading in Wales on a Forrestry Commision Road - turned out to be a broken rear spring that allowed the wheel on that side to move backwards taking up the handbrake adjustments. Had to disconnect the handbrake completely to get her home for new rear springs !

07-03-2015, 09:08	#8
rustic Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Staffordshire Vehicle: Maverick Mk I 2.7 TD LWB Posts: 7,825	Did mine yesterday. 1 slightly loosen all 12 rear wheel nuts while vehicle is on the ground 2 Chock front wheels 3 Jack up rear Diff, place two axle stands under axle, one each side 4 using a 10mm deep socket, loosen the hand brake adjuster nut by putting handbrake on, and moving aside the plastic piece under the handbrake to expose the nylock nut. Undo about 5 or 6 complete turns, then handbrake off. 5 remove rear wheels 6 using 2 x M8 bolts in the threaded holes in the drum, tighten until the drum starts to move, then slacken both and hit the drum with your fist, or rubber mallet, and you should hear the brake linings drop back, you might need to do this two or three times. 7 Slide drum off 8 clean linings and drum with brake cleaner 9 inspect components for leaks 10 adjust auto adjusters one click at a time, but place drum over after each adjustment to check. Caution Avoid beathing the dust Only remove one drum at a time, as when you place the drum back, you might want to use the handbrake or foot brake to centralise the shoes after adjustment or replacement, and you don't want to wreck the slave cylinders by popping the pistons and covering the linings in brake fluid... When you are happy with the auto adjusters, replace wheels, tighten wheel nuts then go to hand brake adjusting nut and tighten, what I do is note when the shoes start to bind on one click of the handbrake, when rotating the rear wheel to check for binding, both wheels will turn in the same direction, due to the LSD and the wheel is quite stiff, but you can detect when the brakes are just binding. When happy with this, remove axle stands and jack, then tighten the wheel nuts using a torque wrench. Time to do this task... 30 mins to an hour... DO NOT attempt any work on the braking system unless you have the necessary experience, the correct tools and safety gear. ALEX... I know you have axle stands.... so use them... Go for a test drive, which doesn't use much braking, and check the drums for excessive heat, due to any binding, and be prepared to slacken the handbrake adjusting nut. An alternative, is to drive to Ricks via a suitable retailer to purchase ia bottle of Malt whisky. Rustic __________________ Ford Maverick GLX 1995 2.7TD LWB in illusion silver, 98k miles. Owned since new, for 22 years. Best car I have ever owned. Just wish I could drive it more.

07-03-2015, 00:07	#3
Sweety Senior Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Northumberland Vehicle: Terrano 2.7TDI SE LWB Posts: 3,604	Check your h/brake cables as well as they could be caked in mud stopping them working correctly but to get the drums off jack up the back end & put on stands take wheels off & use 2x M8 bolts I think it is to screw into the 2 holes in the drum to pull it off then clean & adjust brakes if needed

07-03-2015, 04:53	#4
bud Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: new zealand Vehicle: Terrano 2 Posts: 254	Two threaded m10 holes in front of brake drum screw two bolts in evenly and it will start sliding the drum off the hub. Inspect as pernormal.... do not touch the brake pedal with the drum off or you fire the pistons clean out of the cylinder. Take the tension right off the hand brake lever adjustment and put the lever in the down position, next get a flat head screw driver and turn the small adjusment sproket on the preset rod between the two brake pads untill it is just touching the drum as you slide it back over the brake shoes. You might aswell adjust them right up if ya going to pull them to bits.

07-03-2015, 04:55	#5
bud Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: new zealand Vehicle: Terrano 2 Posts: 254	Two threaded m10 holes in front of brake drum screw two bolts in evenly and it will start sliding the drum off the hub. Inspect as pernormal.... do not touch the brake pedal with the drum off or you fire the pistons clean out of the cylinder. Take the tension right off the hand brake lever adjustment and put the lever in the down position, next get a flat head screw driver and turn the small adjusment sproket on the preset rod between the two brake pads untill it is just touching the drum as you slide it back over the brake shoes. You might aswell adjust them right up if ya going to pull them to bits.

07-03-2015, 07:13	#6
Blocky10 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Welcome to Norwich, a fine city Vehicle: 2004 Terrano 3.0 SVE Auto Posts: 3,601	That'll be one post for each wheel then. :-P

07-03-2015, 10:09	#10
AlexD333 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Uk Vehicle: 2004 Terrano 2.7 TDI Posts: 7,847	I remember this from ricks somewhat, I don't remember using those m8 bolts to slide off the hubs though, just a mallet if I remember. Also I have the facelift model and the auto adjusters actually work All I'm gonna do it remove the mud I think

07-03-2015, 19:30	#13
AlexD333 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Uk Vehicle: 2004 Terrano 2.7 TDI Posts: 7,847	All is ok and done, lots of horrid sludge removed from inside the hubs, this job was made much more difficult by the fact I have wheel spacers, the bolts must be perfectly inline for the spacer to realign otherwise it will not lay against the hub.. Still all done now Considering these are only 8 months old (shoes and cylinder) they are looking pretty sorry for themselves Rick did mention the rears will wear out faster than the front shoes The truck is certainly not binding as I roll easily on any slant All these pics are after I removed the sludge that I could... Not long left on those rear shoes