Spark plug issues - non terrano

[AlexD333]

So master technician me was doing the plugs on the mrs motor today, I picked up 4 NGK plugs for 6 quid

After a drive we had a bite to eat, came out to change the plugs, engine still warm, it did not want to undo, so I sprayed some rust off spray incase to aid it slightly

Gave it another good go and kaput...

[AlexD333]

The plastic smashed into loads of tiny fragments... Sitting in the spark plug hole

Luckily spark plug thread still in hole we used tweezers to remove the plastic shards, and the plug then came out good as gold. I used grease on the new thread all seems ok, but only one plug done.. Hopefully work will help me tomorrow

[Lazy-Ferret]

Firstly, those bit's are not plastic, they are ceramic, so make sure none drops into the engine, you have already seen Ricks posts on what ceramic does to the engine insides.

Secondly, generally plug ceramics break for one of two reasons.. Either you were not holding the socket squarely on the plug, another reason to use a "T" bar for plugs, or the plug has got very hot at some point in it's life, which would indicate engine overheating.

Knowing you, I would reckon of reason one...

[John B]

That plug is no good now

[Ianinessex]

Originally Posted by AlexD333

The plastic smashed into loads of tiny fragments... Sitting in the spark plug hole

Luckily spark plug thread still in hole we used tweezers to remove the plastic shards, and the plug then came out good as gold. I used grease on the new thread all seems ok, but only one plug done.. Hopefully work will help me tomorrow

If it happens again, get the vacuum cleaner on the job. With a small nozzle you should get it all out. Hopefully you have a "garage" one, if not use the household one, but not while the Mrs is about.

[rustic]

I too would say a side force applied to the plug, which smashed the ceramic.
We have suggested "T" bar for glow plugs too.
Very poor dismantling.

A breaker bar can be used with a long extension, But the head of the breaker bar has to be held rigid with one hand, so it can't wobble, as the other turns it.

Sometimes a box spanner is best as you can see the clearance between the ceramic and the spanner.

So will we expect a post on how to re-thread spark plug holes using helicoils without having to remove the cylinder head soon then...?

Don't over tighten the new plugs, some say finger tight, then 1/8 turn only, but this can be affected by debris under the taper. Also varies between manufacturers too.
Gap the new plugs correctly and install as per a service manual.
Note which spark plug lead goes to each plug, don't swap them.

[Sweety]

Known old plugs to do this if they have been in for years get them out & fit the new ones

[Ogri]

It's quite likely that the plugs had been over tightened when installed. Taper seat plugs require about twice the effort to remove as to tighten. Cast iron head and taper seat plug should need no more than about 15-18 lb/ft when tightening or they will be a bugger to remove.

Alex, think about tightening an 8mm bolt into aluminium alloy engine casing on your motorbike and you'll be about right.

[solarman216]

bet you used a socket with the rubber in it that enables you to get the plug out of deep holes, the use of these rubbers reduces the amount slack available for sideways movement, I bin these rubbers as soon as I first use a new socket preferring to lift the plug out with long nosed pliers if it is not accessible with fingers, Rick

[AlexD333]

Originally Posted by solarman216

bet you used a socket with the rubber in it that enables you to get the plug out of deep holes, the use of these rubbers reduces the amount slack available for sideways movement, I bin these rubbers as soon as I first use a new socket preferring to lift the plug out with long nosed pliers if it is not accessible with fingers, Rick

I don't know how you know these things... Yes it's the only tool I could find... I did have a T bar but it was hiding, so luckily I found an old spark plug removal tool, long 5/8 socket (iirc) with the rubber inside....

I'm gonna ask work to give me a Hand, we have all the tools there, don't wanna shear another or I will be stranded at work

[firebobby]

My daughters Fiesta has the Endura engine, they are known for spark plugs being tight, I used release fluid a day before removal and had no issues. I put a tiny amount of copper grease on the new plugs and they came out no problems next time. They also show signs of head gasket failure...white gunge under the oil filler cap, this is normally down to the engine breather system which clogs up to easily.

[Banshee]

Very common on the Endura E engines, I've known this to happen on a few now including my girlfriends brothers ex girlfriend.

She ended up with a bill to remove 2 that had to be drilled out

[panelbeater]

one good thing is looking at the plug tip the mixture is good.

[AlexD333]

I did spray some penetrant spray yesterday (rost off) and the others came out at work ok, colleague did it before I could ask

The chaps at work suspected the engine sound more sinister than just tappet adjustment but I wont be able to do the job until weekend or later away

I bought the rocker cover gasket, £1.13

Even if it is noisy we will just use it.

[Paff]

Center electrode on the broken plug looks bent, so as said plug socket not on square