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I'm new here, please be gentle This is where you can "introduce yourself". A chance for you as a new member to say hello and for you to tell us about yourselves, your truck and your other interests.

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Old 28-03-2013, 18:28   #1
Deano400
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North West
Vehicle: Patrol Y60
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Default Been lurking for a while, now joined up

Hi all,
I've been hanging around here for a while and posted a few pics of my Y60 Patrol and I thought it was time to join the club properly.

I have been in engineering and the motor trade for years and the last 5 years I've been working on Railway trains.
I used to be a big Land rover enthusiast and I've owned many different types and models of Landy from a 1950 series 1 right up to a nearly new TD5 110 and I've restored and built all kinds of Landys and other vehicles including kit cars.

The last few years I spent owning Nissan Skylines and then a tuned Navara but I've always been a fan of simple technology and had a patrol itch to scratch so I found myself a 1993 N/A 4.2 Safari that although a little knocked about on the body was low mileage and in excellent shape underneath not to mention has 43 stamps in the service book ! An ideal project vehicle for me to keep me ocupied.

I've been working my way through it, servicing, updating and modding it as well as giving it a respray in satin black, and it's getting how I want it now.

Anyway, there's a bit about me and my motor and I have to say that I've been on many motor forums, but this one looks like one of the friendliest and down to earth.

Dean
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Old 28-03-2013, 18:40   #2
SPARKIEDOO
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Location: cupar scotland
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WELCOME ON BOARD
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Old 28-03-2013, 18:45   #3
briggie
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WELCOME !!!!!!
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Old 28-03-2013, 18:55   #4
stinka
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Welcome dude, got pics ? Love the patrols
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Old 28-03-2013, 20:11   #5
Deano400
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Vehicle: Patrol Y60
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Default pics

Thanks for all the welcomes.

Pics

As bought



After a bit of work



Front bumper prepped and etch primed and front panel wax coated



Bumper painted and grill chrome trim painted.

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Old 28-03-2013, 20:25   #6
darryl
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Vehicle: maverick 2.7td
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano400 View Post
Thanks for all the welcomes.

Pics

As bought



After a bit of work



Front bumper prepped and etch primed and front panel wax coated



Bumper painted and grill chrome trim painted.

welcome truck looks sweet
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Old 28-03-2013, 20:48   #7
makeitfit
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Top drawer mate love the Trol and the black satin
Now then , what mods you doing
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Old 28-03-2013, 21:21   #8
Deano400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makeitfit View Post
Top drawer mate love the Trol and the black satin
Now then , what mods you doing
So far as well as what you can see in the pics I've done +2" springs, front axle caster adjusted, polybushed rear trailing arms, mt75 oil in the main box, decent stereo, cat1 alarm, fuel turned up on the pump.

To do, snorkel, fabricate underbody protection winch bumper and winch, build a freer flowing and nicer sounding exhaust, paint the brown interior and tint the rear half of the windows and put corrosion protection in every nook n crevice.

After all that I'll probably turbo it.
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Old 28-03-2013, 21:48   #9
clivvy
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welcome, and what a bloody nice Troll that is, great work!
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Old 28-03-2013, 22:24   #10
SPARKIEDOO
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I LIKE YOUR TRUCK
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Old 28-03-2013, 22:37   #11
makeitfit
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Suprised you needed castor correction bushes on a 2" lift
Have you checked the angle now ? You may have over cooked it now
There was a guy on fleabay selling full flow manifolds for the high level turbo set up, they were works of art and where most gains can be made
3" straight through
Good to see another Y60 on the mod list
How many turns did you do on the pump? I need to do mine
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Old 28-03-2013, 23:01   #12
spinna
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Agree with 3" exhaust, its what i have on my 4.2 n/a, and sounds sweet
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Old 29-03-2013, 10:06   #13
Deano400
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After the lift the steering was ok but quite "twitchy" and although it was perfectly driveable I just didn't like it. Since I plan on doing some greenlaning I didn't want caster correction bushes with only a little bit of flexible material on one side so I elongated the front holes in the axles mounting brackets to rotate the axle and welded thick washers on the outside with longer bolts. Because I've only done the front ones, it won't have made as big a difference as a full correction kit and I doubt that I've over done it. Of course I haven't measured it but it's back to driving nicely now.

When I bought the truck I could see even under full throttle that there was no black smoke from the exhaust and so I knew that there was room for improvement turning up the fuel. They must build them at the factory set very emission friendly. Anyway I turned the fuel screw out one full turn and it goes better now but still I wouldn't say it's a big smoker under load and there's room for more, I'm just mindful of impacting fuel economy too much especially as I have a 60 mile drive to work n back. I once wound up the fuel on a N/A defender I had years ago and boy did that make a difference but it looked like a battleship making smoke in the mirror and supped fuel like a petrol engine. By the way, it's an inline pump on mine.

Thanks for the exhaust info. Initially I was just going to look for a nice straight through box to weld in to replace the massive and only centre box on mine. I think since it's the only box doing the silencing then it could be pretty restrictive, but to be honest I want it to sound nice too
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Old 29-03-2013, 12:06   #14
makeitfit
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Brilliant idea on the axle mount holes I'll be considering that one cheers I wonder if I can find my protractor
I've got my axles off at the mo waiting for my LOKKA to arrive, so an ideal opportunity to do some more mods
Fuel screw=new job of the day
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Old 29-03-2013, 15:05   #15
Deano400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makeitfit View Post
Brilliant idea on the axle mount holes I'll be considering that one cheers I wonder if I can find my protractor
I've got my axles off at the mo waiting for my LOKKA to arrive, so an ideal opportunity to do some more mods
Fuel screw=new job of the day
If you do it that way, just a little tip, do it with the axles on the radius arms because it's not just a case of moving the hole downwards, it has to move in a slight arc. I used verniers to ensure equal distances on each side and a flat ended die grinder bit with a steady hand so as not to damage the tube or bush in the arm. Also don't forget to loosen the rear bolts so as not to stress the rear bushes with twisting forces. Sorry if might be teaching you to suck eggs there but things are not always apparent on first sight.
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