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Old 31-03-2011, 22:53   #1
laurieash
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Default Paint Bubble into big hole

HI look what i did today it started with a 10 pence size paint bubble
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Old 31-03-2011, 22:55   #2
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HI look what i did today it started with a 10 pence size paint bubble
get it sorted all my own work.
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Old 31-03-2011, 22:58   #3
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get it sorted all my own work.
bit by bit also blew some wax oil in since hole was there.
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Old 31-03-2011, 23:00   #4
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bit by bit also blew some wax oil in since hole was there.
Spent more time resizing these photos.
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Old 31-03-2011, 23:03   #5
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Spent more time resizing these photos.
Bit of paint, job done this looks like the first bit of welding on terrano not bad for a L reg.
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Old 31-03-2011, 23:05   #6
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well done looks good, Rick
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Old 31-03-2011, 23:05   #7
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Bit of paint, job done this looks like the first bit of welding on terrano not bad for a L reg.
when paint is dry will give it a wash to get all the dust of doors
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Old 31-03-2011, 23:09   #8
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I wish I had time to get my welding useful
Well done mate, it does seem that the older trucks rust less than the newer ones for some reason.
Good job
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:16   #9
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good job mate what thickness plate did you use?as i have a couple of paint bubbles near back wheel and think when i have a poke about might find a couple of holes
did you use a mig?
i have a mig welder but cant get used to it i prefer my stick welder must be down to my times in the quarrys where we used nothing less than 4mm rods as these were the only ones the manager would buy
cheers Andy
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:29   #10
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I wish I had time to get my welding useful
Well done mate, it does seem that the older trucks rust less than the newer ones for some reason.
Good job
I've always said the facelift isn't as sturdy as the round headlight jobbie.....which explains why I've got exactly the same hole in the rear sill of an 02 ...POS!

Pete, any decent welders near you that would do this sort of stuff? I want to plate it properly as I'm probably selling it on and don't want it to be a lemon in case it goes locally....you know how sheepshaggers hold a grudge LOL!
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:38   #11
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Originally Posted by laurieash View Post
Bit of paint, job done this looks like the first bit of welding on terrano not bad for a L reg.
Looks like a proper job
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:54   #12
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get it sorted all my own work.
So is the outer sill double skinned , if so it would be very difficult to stop it rusting?


Why is this area on a LWB prone to rust, it is right below the "B" pillar ?

On the SWB it is near the rear of the sill which is prone to rust.

So I can see that deep fording in muddy water can fill the sills with mud and help the rust process, but how can you get at this area to clear it and de-rust, or better still treat it, so it doesn't rust in the first place.
I hope my sills are rust free for another 16 years...

But what are they really like now ?

The problem with hidden areas, it is only when you see the first rust bubble, that it is now too late to prevent it.

I had a 1976 Toyota Corolla, when it was only 2 years old it had rust bubbles on the top of the front wings, when I investigated it , the rot had formed several long slots (holes) a few inches long.
Plastic padding and mesh did the rest.
The fault was due to a mud trap at the top of the wing.
At least modern inner wheel liners prevent this one.

Jap cars at the time were prone to this type of rust, and we just accepted it as normal wear and tear..
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Old 01-04-2011, 20:51   #13
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Originally Posted by spiderpig37 View Post
good job mate what thickness plate did you use?as i have a couple of paint bubbles near back wheel and think when i have a poke about might find a couple of holes
did you use a mig?
i have a mig welder but cant get used to it i prefer my stick welder must be down to my times in the quarrys where we used nothing less than 4mm rods as these were the only ones the manager would buy
cheers Andy
Hi there i used a mig welder down on number 2 using the same thickness of plate as the cill its self.just cut out to good metal then use a bit of cardboard ir asitat cut to size of hole or square then transfer to sheet metal.
then glue it all together with the mig. i used to stick but find mig easer.practice on scrapmetal first must be clean or it will spit down your neck have fun Laurie. see you all at Rally.
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Old 01-04-2011, 20:57   #14
laurieash
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Originally Posted by rustic View Post
So is the outer sill double skinned , if so it would be very difficult to stop it rusting?


Why is this area on a LWB prone to rust, it is right below the "B" pillar ?

On the SWB it is near the rear of the sill which is prone to rust.

So I can see that deep fording in muddy water can fill the sills with mud and help the rust process, but how can you get at this area to clear it and de-rust, or better still treat it, so it doesn't rust in the first place.
I hope my sills are rust free for another 16 years...

But what are they really like now ?

The problem with hidden areas, it is only when you see the first rust bubble, that it is now too late to prevent it.

I had a 1976 Toyota Corolla, when it was only 2 years old it had rust bubbles on the top of the front wings, when I investigated it , the rot had formed several long slots (holes) a few inches long.
Plastic padding and mesh did the rest.
The fault was due to a mud trap at the top of the wing.
At least modern inner wheel liners prevent this one.

Jap cars at the time were prone to this type of rust, and we just accepted it as normal wear and tear..
dont know about that i had af few Discos all the crap collected behind the plastic front liners and rotted the hole that held them up.
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Old 01-04-2011, 21:36   #15
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Needs welding done on mine,hope i can find someone who can do a job as good as that.Gr8 job m8
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