Garage Door Edging Ideas please.

macabethiel · 06-09-2017, 16:36

When my garage was built some 25 years ago whenever it rained water would run into my garage as the driveway was pretty much on the same level. Not full flooding but enough to get on my nerves especially in the winter.

Being younger back then (44 !) I screwed a strip of hardwood (1.5 inches wide and about 0.5 inches thick) across the floor to act as a weatherstrip. I then coated the wood with Epoxy Resin based cement and it has worked just fine as a water barrier until a couple of years ago when the strip started cracking and revealed the wood had finally rotted.

I need to replace it but just can't decide the best way to do it. My first thoughts were to put down a row of Red Quarry Tiles using waterproof tile adhesive but these tiles seem quite expensive now and hard to come by. I don't want to build a potential trip hazard but just can't figure out a better way to effect a repair.

I have looked at bevelled wall coping stones but these are too thick and rather wide. Anyone got any suggestions or do I just replace with the same as before?

panelbeater · 06-09-2017, 16:54

do what you did again see you out.

don simon · 06-09-2017, 17:47

Rubber strip to replace the wooden board?
Drain across the width of garage door?
Rubber under the door to form barrier when closed?
Move to a drier climate?
Strips of some sort of brush at the bottom of the door?
Another wooden strip?

rayf3262 · 06-09-2017, 21:39

I had a similar problem.
I stuck down some rubber D section with PU adhesive:
Used on boats as a fender strip and often seen on the rear of LGV trucks.
You can also run some aluminium flat bar through it drill through it and screw it down too.

macabethiel · 07-09-2017, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by don simon

Rubber strip to replace the wooden board?
Drain across the width of garage door?
Rubber under the door to form barrier when closed?
Move to a drier climate?
Strips of some sort of brush at the bottom of the door?
Another wooden strip?

I like move to a drier climate Teneriffe would be perfect !

macabethiel · 07-09-2017, 09:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayf3262

I had a similar problem.
I stuck down some rubber D section with PU adhesive:
Used on boats as a fender strip and often seen on the rear of LGV trucks.
You can also run some aluminium flat bar through it drill through it and screw it down too.

That looks good where did you buy from ?

rustic · 07-09-2017, 16:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by macabethiel

That looks good where did you buy from ?

Try http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk

I think panelbeater's advice is sound, when you look at the prices of the rubber strip, so might you lol...

Anything attached to the door will make opening the door difficult.
Rustic

Lazy-Ferret · 07-09-2017, 20:47

This might be a slightly cheaper way of doing it.

You could stick it down with Silkaflex.

macabethiel · 08-09-2017, 10:26

I had to rule out the weatherstrip idea on cost but seeing the profile of the rubber gave me an idea.

The main reason for the final failure was due to the wood rotting, the remaining epoxy cement is still good and holding out most of the water.

I have some spare plastic grid sheets at home that I bought for my pond filter . I plan to cut out two rows to act as a support grid instead of the wood I used before. I will position the plastic strips in place using a few blobs of silicone or similar.

I will then fill the spaces with Epoxy based Cement (Epoxy Set 105) and then trowel a finish on the top and sides when the initial infill has set.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Filter...cAAMXQ74JTT~82

The 4Kg Tub of the resin was £21.76 and there will be some left over for the future.

macabethiel · 08-09-2017, 14:41

I have just completed the repair to the right hand corner using the plastic grid as the support system. All trowelled down and am waiting for it to set - that should only take about a couple of hours as it starts to stiffen after 30 minutes.

Made the mix slightly runny to ensure it fills the squares and makes contact with the garage floor (cleaned dry concrete).

To complete the whole door width is going to take another two Tubs so plan to leave the remainder until the dry weather in the spring as it's just the one side that is letting in the rain.

Hopefully Aldi will have some of the cheaper stuff (£6.99 ish for a small tub)in stock that I have used before, thus more than halving the cost to finish the job. Worst case is having to buy two more full Tubs at £21.76 each to do the remainder. Do it next year and spread the cost.

macabethiel · 08-09-2017, 15:34

20170908_112533 by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr

I have cut the grid to fit round the door frame and up to the inside wall to keep water out.
Next picture to follow when cement has cured - Tub says 4 hours.

rustic · 08-09-2017, 17:18

Looks like you are using waffle boards lol
Should last well.

don simon · 08-09-2017, 21:34

Looks good.

macabethiel · 09-09-2017, 09:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustic

Looks like you are using waffle boards lol
Should last well.

coated waffle by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr

This is the Waffle now with Resin Cement Spread.
I might do the opposite corner if it stays dry do the middle in the Spring.
The low point of the garage floor is on either side, I think the builder thought he needed to build in road camber on my garage floor.lol

macabethiel · 11-09-2017, 11:40

other side by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr

Just cut and tacked in place the grid for the other side ready for the Resin Cement infill.

06-09-2017, 16:36	#1
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	Garage Door Edging Ideas please. When my garage was built some 25 years ago whenever it rained water would run into my garage as the driveway was pretty much on the same level. Not full flooding but enough to get on my nerves especially in the winter. Being younger back then (44 !) I screwed a strip of hardwood (1.5 inches wide and about 0.5 inches thick) across the floor to act as a weatherstrip. I then coated the wood with Epoxy Resin based cement and it has worked just fine as a water barrier until a couple of years ago when the strip started cracking and revealed the wood had finally rotted. I need to replace it but just can't decide the best way to do it. My first thoughts were to put down a row of Red Quarry Tiles using waterproof tile adhesive but these tiles seem quite expensive now and hard to come by. I don't want to build a potential trip hazard but just can't figure out a better way to effect a repair. I have looked at bevelled wall coping stones but these are too thick and rather wide. Anyone got any suggestions or do I just replace with the same as before?

08-09-2017, 10:26	#9
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	Thanks for your suggestions this is my current plan for a fix. I had to rule out the weatherstrip idea on cost but seeing the profile of the rubber gave me an idea. The main reason for the final failure was due to the wood rotting, the remaining epoxy cement is still good and holding out most of the water. I have some spare plastic grid sheets at home that I bought for my pond filter . I plan to cut out two rows to act as a support grid instead of the wood I used before. I will position the plastic strips in place using a few blobs of silicone or similar. I will then fill the spaces with Epoxy based Cement (Epoxy Set 105) and then trowel a finish on the top and sides when the initial infill has set. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Filter...cAAMXQ74JTT~82 The 4Kg Tub of the resin was £21.76 and there will be some left over for the future.

08-09-2017, 14:41	#10
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	Phase 1 looking good but no resin left over ! I have just completed the repair to the right hand corner using the plastic grid as the support system. All trowelled down and am waiting for it to set - that should only take about a couple of hours as it starts to stiffen after 30 minutes. Made the mix slightly runny to ensure it fills the squares and makes contact with the garage floor (cleaned dry concrete). To complete the whole door width is going to take another two Tubs so plan to leave the remainder until the dry weather in the spring as it's just the one side that is letting in the rain. Hopefully Aldi will have some of the cheaper stuff (£6.99 ish for a small tub)in stock that I have used before, thus more than halving the cost to finish the job. Worst case is having to buy two more full Tubs at £21.76 each to do the remainder. Do it next year and spread the cost.

08-09-2017, 15:34	#11
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	This is the grid in place before cementing. 20170908_112533 by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr I have cut the grid to fit round the door frame and up to the inside wall to keep water out. Next picture to follow when cement has cured - Tub says 4 hours.

08-09-2017, 17:18	#12
rustic Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Staffordshire Vehicle: Maverick Mk I 2.7 TD LWB Posts: 7,825	Looks like you are using waffle boards lol Should last well. __________________ Ford Maverick GLX 1995 2.7TD LWB in illusion silver, 98k miles. Owned since new, for 22 years. Best car I have ever owned. Just wish I could drive it more.

06-09-2017, 16:54	#2
panelbeater Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: clacton on sea essex Vehicle: nissan terrano 2 2.7 tdi Posts: 1,629	do what you did again see you out.

06-09-2017, 17:47	#3
don simon Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Gone. Vehicle: Terrano ii Posts: 2,215	Rubber strip to replace the wooden board? Drain across the width of garage door? Rubber under the door to form barrier when closed? Move to a drier climate? Strips of some sort of brush at the bottom of the door? Another wooden strip?

07-09-2017, 20:47	#8
Lazy-Ferret Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sevenoaks, Kent Vehicle: Terrano 2.7TDi SE Touring Posts: 5,221	This might be a slightly cheaper way of doing it. You could stick it down with Silkaflex.

08-09-2017, 21:34	#13
don simon Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Gone. Vehicle: Terrano ii Posts: 2,215	Looks good.

11-09-2017, 11:40	#15
macabethiel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Derby Vehicle: Freelander & Jeep GC 3.0 Posts: 4,416	Started the other side today ! other side by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr Just cut and tacked in place the grid for the other side ready for the Resin Cement infill.