DTRL upgrade

[macabethiel]

Well the plastic aftermarket £6.00 LED lamps on our Jeep have failed as a result of water ingress after about 4 months. One started flashing and the other was only illuminated by 5 of the original 9 LED's. Took them apart and they were soaked in water the circuit board inside was badly corroded as was the reflector.

So decided to pay £18.00 and go for some alloy bodied ones instead of plastic. They seem much more substantial. I have added sealant pretty much anywhere that water might get in.
Had to fabricate a proper mounting bracket due to the weight of the lamps. They are slightly further away from the headlamps due to the logistics of finding a flat area on the front cross member for mounting. Could not fit directly to the top of the bumper as its plastic with foam inside where they would need to be mounted.

I think the square shape suits the Jeep better than the old round ones. They have changed the layout on Flicker took me ages to find how to upload them.
20170323_094842 by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr

20170323_094909 by Ted Bagshaw, on Flickr

[emjaybee]

Looking good bloke.



I had similar troubles with aftermarket DTRL's for my last Transit. I bought a kit that was designed to fit in the front fog light recess. Looked well made, waterproof connections etc., designed to dim when you turn main beam on, etc. Worked fantastically for 12 months and 1 week. Then I lost one side, fixed the corroded "waterproof" connector by hard wiring. Then they never quite went out after switch off. Eventually disconnected them and gave up.



My latest van, LWB Sprinter, is three years old and has the facility to have headlights set to permanently on when the engine is running. Much simpler.

Hey-ho.

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by emjaybee

Looking good bloke.



I had similar troubles with aftermarket DTRL's for my last Transit. I bought a kit that was designed to fit in the front fog light recess. Looked well made, waterproof connections etc., designed to dim when you turn main beam on, etc. Worked fantastically for 12 months and 1 week. Then I lost one side, fixed the corroded "waterproof" connector by hard wiring. Then they never quite went out after switch off. Eventually disconnected them and gave up.



My latest van, LWB Sprinter, is three years old and has the facility to have headlights set to permanently on when the engine is running. Much simpler.

Hey-ho.

My old Chrysler 300 C Estate and my current BMW have the headlights on option. If it's on my Jeep then I have failed to find the Menu but TBH have not looked in the Handbook - being a bloke !

[macabethiel]

Well the DTRL upgrade was fine for a few weeks then lights remained all the time. Investigation revealed burnt out relay as 2x18 watts was too much!

Due to no easy access to live feed from the ignition under the bonnet have now done a complete overkill solution.

1) Had a spare voltage activation relay as per the burnt out unit that dims the LED's when main light are on.

2) Good old fashioned 4 pin 30 amp relay with built in fuse holder.

3) Obtained an LED relay designed to work off the ignition that is rated for 50 watts.

Wired up relay (3) but instead of feed from ignition connected this to relay (2) switched feed contacts 87 & 30. Then used relay (1) to supply the switch contact 85 & 86.

So current though relay 1 is now very low as it just activates relay 2. Relay 1 & 3 housed in small plastic box with connector strip, relay 2 attached to outside of said box with double sided tape. All hidden in small gap near spout for screen washer top up. Essential line fuse fitted to power from battery via the relay box next to the battery. All wires in flexible trunking for safety.

Hope this is now sorted for good. Next move if this fails will be to give up and take the dam things off .lol

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by macabethiel

Well the DTRL upgrade was fine for a few weeks then lights remained all the time. Investigation revealed burnt out relay as 2x18 watts was too much!

Due to no easy access to live feed from the ignition under the bonnet have now done a complete overkill solution.

1) Had a spare voltage activation relay as per the burnt out unit that dims the LED's when main light are on.

2) Good old fashioned 4 pin 30 amp relay with built in fuse holder.

3) Obtained an LED relay designed to work off the ignition that is rated for 50 watts.

Wired up relay (3) but instead of feed from ignition connected this to relay (2) switched feed contacts 87 & 30. Then used relay (1) to supply the switch contact 85 & 86.

So current though relay 1 is now very low as it just activates relay 2. Relay 1 & 3 housed in small plastic box with connector strip, relay 2 attached to outside of said box with double sided tape. All hidden in small gap near spout for screen washer top up. Essential line fuse fitted to power from battery via the relay box next to the battery. All wires in flexible trunking for safety.

Hope this is now sorted for good. Next move if this fails will be to give up and take the dam things off .lol

This is an Uncle Rustic type download methinks probably of no use to anyone but me in my head! lol

[terranosaurusdoug]

I know little about vehicle electrics but keep it coming mate, share what you do it's what this place is about